For removing the plugs:

The standard way is to remove them through the "inspection windows" on either side. Remove the 2 plugs closest to each side through the corresponding inspection window.

The trick is to drop the socket and extension down onto the plug first, then put your ratchet onto the extension - when the plugs are cracked loose you can remove the ratchet and remove the plug by hand (using the extension+socket)

Installation is the same, just backwards... Remember to use compressed air to blow out the plug area before removing the plugs, dirt and crap can fall into the cylinder if you don't blow them out.

The tires will be junk, over time the rubber dries out and becomes hard/brittle. There was a proven study conducted that states tires over 6 years old are deadly dangerous.

You're not new to riding, so you should know that good tires are the BEST form of insurance for a motorcycle and its rider (I recommend Metzeler M3's, 120/160)

Check for creases or bends in the fork tubes to see if they are bent, pretty straight forward... If there's no obvious sign of damage, look closely for stretch marks around the triple clamps. Damaged forks are usually quite obvious.

To check the wheel bearings, you'll have to support the bike to remove the wheels.

Once the wheels are removed, try to turn each bearing with your finger - If it's notchy, gritty, rough and hard to turn it's probably best to replace them (they're cheap to fix before they detonate, more expensive when they blow...gonna be a lot more than bearings)

Swingarm uses needle bearings, which can just be greased.

The shock linkage has bearings also, but should be okay, just check for smooth movement of parts.


The carbs:

When fuel dries out it becomes a thick brown/black superglue tarnish that jams everything up.

Be careful when taking them apart as everything is going to be stuck together... Do a real thorough cleaning of everything using compressed air and carb cleaner.

Lube the cables and give the throttle linkage a few shots of WD-40, that should help free them up after they have been cleaned.

To remove the carbs you have to loosen the insulator band screws (on the carb booties) and pull the carbs up and out... You'll probably have to rock them up and down, and you REALLY gotta yank them out of there.

You're right, it is in fact a bitch to get them back on... I can't give any solid advice on that one, you'll just have to wrestle it!

That's all I can type right now, the woman is bugging me to come to bed! I'll check back tomorrow.

 

thanks hershey you have been a big help as far as the carbs Ill take them off tomorrow when my friend is here to help.its like the same **** with my gsxr it was a PAIN IN THE ***!.the boot part is probably the hardest to.also im having alil trouble getting the REAR foot brake back together.I seem to got it.but way to much pressure like feels somethings wrong does the bike gotta be started for me to push the Pedal down sorta like a car?.Umm i dont know if i have any other questions at the moment haha.

 

Nah, the rear brake is not connected to a vacuum system like a car, it's a closed unit...

Rear brakes are typically quite touchy, but should have a good 1" travel before it gets "stiff"...

What work did you do on the brake assembly, and do you know if it was like that before you did the work or did it come about afterwards?

 

Another thing,

When you get to the carbs, take the float bowl and slide cover bolts (Phillips head) to a hardware store and replace them with Allen head bolts (get identical thread pitch and size).

The standard Phillips head bolts are very soft and tend to strip out very easily, replacing these will save you from many headaches!

 

well when i got the bike that rear Brake was taken off all the bolts and bracket is there im trying to put it back on but it has like no play you push it goes down alil bit then is STIFF!!.but as far as the carbs Im having a bitch of a time getting them off.i cant even reach all of the philips screws to even get the carbs off the boot.

 

You only have to loosen the outer band clamps, closest to the carbs (each boot has 2 clamps).

Try bleeding the brakes and using new fluid (DOT 4)...

Does it feel stiff using your hand, or your foot? There's a lot more force with your foot than your hand

 

im i know about only loosing the clamps closest to the carbs the outer ones But i can only reach the first 2.and cant get them from the other side there facing the other way.and about the brakes yes i am pushing it by hand.But it just doesnt feel right.maybe your right tho.maybe i should try using my Foot maybe ill get better results Before i take them off..how hard is it to get the throttle cables back on?Does it give me alot of slack to work with.there appears to be?I just tried starting the bike tho.It turns over nicely i tried to at least get a sputter out of it put alil starting fluid in it but didnt even get a POOF!..i mean it was sitting maybe bad plugs or something?plus gas hasnt been ran threw it in FOREVER!

 

Ok got the carbs out.Gotta wait till tomorrow to get carb cleaner now.What is the stock main jet size for the 94 cbr 600 f2.My main jet is 126 i believe its stocked.I can tell the carbs were never messed with.but they Look NEW!..but after 11,000 on the bike it needs it.Also did anyone besides me ever hear that you can Actualy boil the carbs in water to get them REALLY clean.If anyone else heard it.How long do you let them cook for?

 

I still need to do this, but this is a VERY IMPORTANT part if you like being able to take your carburetors apart, ever.

also, regardless of appearance, ALL BRAKE FLUID MUST BE FLUSHED if its been sitting for a few years. all manner of nasty crap builds up in that stuff over time and just, yeah. you probably much like me, want your brakes to function when you need em.

if you havent opened the fuel tank yet, after 6months to 2 years or more, if theres gas in there, it will SMELL BAD. trust me, dont open it inside an enclosed area, do so outside then expect rust inside your tank. dont ask how I know either of those two.

 

The jets you have are not stock, the stock size is Keihin 135... The 126's you have are Dynojet, it should have aftermarket needles and springs also.

I guess you can't really tell :P