Made my D&D into a shorty
#1
06-03-2013, 09:50 PM
Made my D&D into a shorty
Here's a video I made of me cutting my D&D slip-on down into a shorty. The original can was 16" and stuck out past the rear tire. I cut it down 6" and polished it before putting it back on. Yes, it is louder than before but it also seems to rev quicker. Maybe it's my imagination. I love the way it looks and sounds now. What do you think?
Should I post this in general tech too?
Should I post this in general tech too?
#3
06-04-2013, 09:06 AM
Without a doubt, the typical 15" to 16" cans for this era of bike are just too long, and with your bike, the length was even more glaring, because your mid-pipe is also eternally long! I'm guessing that pipe was not made for the F2, at least the mid-pipe, that is... not that I'm saying that's bad, I'm just thinking it might not have been originally intended for the F2, if so, they sure left a lot of heavy can out of the back of the strap!!
Anyway, it's looking good.
Was the change enough to notice any top-end "leaning" at all, under load?
I shortened both of my Yoshimura cans, the carbon fiber RS-3 in my phase 1 thread, and the old Yosh R&D stainless can, in the phase 2 thread.
Your shortening job was pretty much a carbon copy of the RS-3, drill the rivets, cut to desired length, push out the end cap with the baffle connected, etc. I was able to use needle nose pliers to grab and peel some large bits of the steel mesh pipe off of the inlet tube, so I didn't have to Dremel quite so much off - what I did to make them go together a touch easier, was just give the very edge of the mesh baffle still in the can, a tiny outward tweaking with some needle nose pliers, so that it was ever so slightly "funneled", so to speak.
I don't think I've yet shortned a slip-on that didn't have something welded, somewhere, and in some cases, re-welding must be done... you should check out the "restoration", if you will, of that Yosh R&D can, it was fun!
It's in my phase 2 thread starting around page 13.
Anyway, it's looking good.
Was the change enough to notice any top-end "leaning" at all, under load?I shortened both of my Yoshimura cans, the carbon fiber RS-3 in my phase 1 thread, and the old Yosh R&D stainless can, in the phase 2 thread.
Your shortening job was pretty much a carbon copy of the RS-3, drill the rivets, cut to desired length, push out the end cap with the baffle connected, etc. I was able to use needle nose pliers to grab and peel some large bits of the steel mesh pipe off of the inlet tube, so I didn't have to Dremel quite so much off - what I did to make them go together a touch easier, was just give the very edge of the mesh baffle still in the can, a tiny outward tweaking with some needle nose pliers, so that it was ever so slightly "funneled", so to speak.
I don't think I've yet shortned a slip-on that didn't have something welded, somewhere, and in some cases, re-welding must be done... you should check out the "restoration", if you will, of that Yosh R&D can, it was fun!
It's in my phase 2 thread starting around page 13.
#5
06-04-2013, 09:37 AM
Without a doubt, the typical 15" to 16" cans for this era of bike are just too long, and with your bike, the length was even more glaring, because your mid-pipe is also eternally long! I'm guessing that pipe was not made for the F2, at least the mid-pipe, that is... not that I'm saying that's bad, I'm just thinking it might not have been originally intended for the F2, if so, they sure left a lot of heavy can out of the back of the strap!!
Anyway, it's looking good. Was the change enough to notice any top-end "leaning" at all, under load?
I shortened both of my Yoshimura cans, the carbon fiber RS-3 in my phase 1 thread, and the old Yosh R&D stainless can, in the phase 2 thread.
Your shortening job was pretty much a carbon copy of the RS-3, drill the rivets, cut to desired length, push out the end cap with the baffle connected, etc. I was able to use needle nose pliers to grab and peel some large bits of the steel mesh pipe off of the inlet tube, so I didn't have to Dremel quite so much off - what I did to make them go together a touch easier, was just give the very edge of the mesh baffle still in the can, a tiny outward tweaking with some needle nose pliers, so that it was ever so slightly "funneled", so to speak.
I don't think I've yet shortned a slip-on that didn't have something welded, somewhere, and in some cases, re-welding must be done... you should check out the "restoration", if you will, of that Yosh R&D can, it was fun! It's in my phase 2 thread starting around page 13.
Anyway, it's looking good.
Was the change enough to notice any top-end "leaning" at all, under load?I shortened both of my Yoshimura cans, the carbon fiber RS-3 in my phase 1 thread, and the old Yosh R&D stainless can, in the phase 2 thread.
Your shortening job was pretty much a carbon copy of the RS-3, drill the rivets, cut to desired length, push out the end cap with the baffle connected, etc. I was able to use needle nose pliers to grab and peel some large bits of the steel mesh pipe off of the inlet tube, so I didn't have to Dremel quite so much off - what I did to make them go together a touch easier, was just give the very edge of the mesh baffle still in the can, a tiny outward tweaking with some needle nose pliers, so that it was ever so slightly "funneled", so to speak.
I don't think I've yet shortned a slip-on that didn't have something welded, somewhere, and in some cases, re-welding must be done... you should check out the "restoration", if you will, of that Yosh R&D can, it was fun!
It's in my phase 2 thread starting around page 13.The mid-pipe is super long but because of the zig-zag bend it does leaving the header pipe I don't have a good place to cut. I'd love to do a GP style cut down but that would be just too loud for me. I did use pliers like you said on the baffle. That was the finesse part that I mentioned in the video when putting the end cap back on. LOL
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
