I just bought 2-piece leathers and am dreaming about dragging my knee on some pavement this upcoming spring/summer.

It is all just rider dependent, right? The F2 should get me low enough to drag knee, like any other super sport?

Am I at risk of grinding the stock rear sets?

Right now I am using battle axe's. My bike mechanic warned me that I should buy a new front tire ASAP, as it barely has any tread.
The rear is pretty worn too, so I think I will buy 2 new tires this new riding season.

What are some tires that would help in obtaining my goal?

Any other tips?

I have been riding for a couple seasons now -- although not as much as I would have liked to (have about 7500-8000 km's of (in)experience).
When I have ridden my friends SV-650's and Ducati's, I have noticed how much easier they change direction at speed. With the F2 it feels (to me) like it just wants to go straight, and you have to apply much more force to counter-steer. Whereas the newer super-sports would flick back and forth with minimal effort.
A little less confidence inspiring, but I am sure all things will work out.




Thanks for the help,
-Quickstrike

 

You'll grind your footpegs long before your knee touches down, make sure you're on the ball of your foot and not the arch. Many new riders make that mistake, and some end up losing a few little piggies.

The F2 is heavy, inertia is your enemy.

Ducati's are renound for their handling capabilities, the F2 will never come close.

Tires, I recommend Metzeler M3's or Michelin Pilot Powers. The Michelins claim the most lean angle. Be sure to SCRUB them in before attempting your goal, new tires are slick!

While I dont recommend nor condonedragging knee on the street, that's for the track, I doubt you will heed my caution... SO, I will give you a few tips in hopes to save you from a crash.

#1, Take it off the street and to the track before you kill yourself or someone else.

#2, Body position is key. Slide your butt off the seat, drop your inside shoulder, MOVE YOUR HEAD (most people hang their whole body off but keep their head in one spot, that's useless) put your head down and kiss your mirror.

#3, LOOK where you want to go. Turn your head and look to the end of the corner.

#4, BE SMOOTH. Plan your attack on the corner long before you're in it. Make sure you know the corner you're taking and that it's free of sand/dirt, and you know the characteristic of the corner (not a suddenly decreasing radius corner that will surprise you when you're in too hot and you're ****ting your pants in panic). Dont make any sudden adjustments that will cause you to lose traction.

If you're in too hot: Push the inside handlebar, LOOK to the end of the corner NOT at the wall you're suddenly drifting toward,push with your outside knee into the gas tank, GENTLY apply gradual pressure to the rear brake, and pray.

You use the rear brake because not only will it slow you down, but it will cause the bike to "turn around the rear wheel" and tighten up your line. If you ham-fist the front brake the bike will stand up and you'll hit that wall before you know it.

 

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Like he said.......get it on a track and it will be much safer for everyone and at least you'll stand a chance of doing it. Get off the bike.....as stated above .......this is how you get over. I do think however that you should have no problem touching knee before the peg feelers hit IF your form is correct. New tires would be a must. If you start dragging hard parts (body parts, pegs, etc) you will crash. It only takes leveraging the rear tire up once and you wont enjoy that much.

 

I've tried, no dice.

Believe it or not, in this incredibly lame video a friend insisted on shooting, my feeler pegs touch down. (The corner is tighter than it appears)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNno3qVciPQ

SLOW MO! COOL! lol....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQNhp1Iumdc

 

wouldnt rider height have an impact on who could or couldnt touch down before the peg feelers?

 

Are you implying longer legs will give you an advantage?

I'm 6'3", doesn't help...

 

Knee dragging is basically a matter of tire grip (max lean angle) and body position (assuming you've got good ground clearance).

From what I can gather, you have to get WAY off the seat unless you have some uber-sticky (meaning race tires or hot supersport tires) rubber.

Slash cut pegs or racing rear sets don't hurt, either...

 

Body position +1

A knee can make it down on the F2 with stock rearsets without making sparks. Vortex or woodcrafts make it easier though.

However I caution you trying this on public roads. Take it to a track at the very least a empty parking lot. If you really want to learn how to get the right body position take Lee Parks Total Control Advanced Rides Course or at least get his book. It is possible to touch a knee at 25mph. It is not about speed but the physics.

 

+815390532175

The best advice in this thread is quoted above.

The book "Total Control" helped me to diagnose exactly what I needed to do in order to acheive proper form and still have an idea of how to execute and maintain it.

Dragging a knee is very possible all the way down to 15mph. I've done it on countless occasions.

I've said it on other forums and I'll say it here too....I was told (and I quote) "the best way to get your knee down is to hang off the bike until you feel like an *******."

After that comes perfecting your body position which the book goes into.

Trust me, if I can get a knee to touch on an '86 Nighthawk you can definitely touch down on your bike.

Scraping parts is never cool or good...it means you need to hang off more.


Get the book, read it cover-to-cover....you won't be disappointed.

 

There is such a thing as hanging off too much though...

Your bodyweight plays a key factor in the bikes stability and traction.