Posted in the tech section a few weeks back. Have tried looking up parts that I may need. I was told that the number 16010-MZ5-920 is the gasket kit. In the parts book it is listed as gasket set "A". What I'm wondering is, if anyone has rebuilt their carbs, does this gasket set include the stuff needed for all 4 carbs, or am I stuck having to purchase 4 of everything? I sure hope it would be for all 4 since just gaskets needed to pull the things apart would be close to $100.

trying to figure out why the bike dies like it does, then re-starts on choke. Also need to figure out which carb or carbs have a suck float or valve as I will need to pay special attention to that one(s) as I would rather not have to spend $300 on carb parts to do all 4.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

I'm goin off memory here,but pretty sure that's for 1 carb.

 

I'd just drain the carbs, take off the float bowl, and give the whole lot a good clean with brake cleaner or some other solvent that's ok to use on carbs. Then unscrew the jets and blast some air and cleaner down the holes, and put it all back together. On the old CB500 the float bowl had a rubber gasket that was reusable, maybe yours is the same? I only ever took the float bowl off and the slide out, nothing else. The bike was idling poorly and wouldn't run at all with the choke on - after a good clean it ran like clockwork.I can't stand spending money unless necessary!

 

CBR77, yeah I hate spending money too. What I'm worried about is that with the bike being nearly 20 years old that as soon as I crack a screw out, the gaskets will start leaking and I'll need to get this crap anyway. I'm almost 100% positive that I have at least one sticking float or valve, possibly more. The bike is like a demon now and I'm getting pissed at it.

 

You don't usually need to rebuild the carbs, just clean them.

 

Could you just flush them through with Redex or similar (the stuff that dissolves fuel varnish and gunge), and leave them a few hours until all the crap dissolves? Either that, or have a look at the gasket which holds the float bowl onto the bottom of the carb, and see if it's a thin rubber one. You should be able to see in situ.They are quite sturdy, and should survive being reused - the CB I had was an original 94 model, and the rubber was as new when I did this. This was the only gasket that I needed to unseal, and the jets were easily accessible after flipping the carb upside down, and draining the fuel, obviously.

 

There's a reason you see a carb cleaning sticky and not a "Super Secret Trick Nobody Has Known about over 40+ years of carborater technology!"

Follow the thread, clean your ****, call it a day.

Save your money on carb rebuild kits and get an air compressor instead if you have to spend money.



As for fidning out which one has a sticking float, there's the oldschool trick of attaching clear line to the drain spout, opening the drain valve, and seeing where the fuel levels off with the carb. It needs to line up with float bowl seam. If it goes over, it's overflowing.

 

It's per carb. I went through the same thing with my carbs when I rebuilt/jetted mine. I ended up using valve packing rope from lowes and permatex form a gasket sealant #1. Worked perfect and doesnt leak (that was back in april).

 

There's a reason you see a carb cleaning sticky and not a "Super Secret Trick Nobody Has Known about over 40+ years of carborater technology!"

Follow the thread, clean your ****, call it a day.

Save your money on carb rebuild kits and get an air compressor instead if you have to spend money.



As for fidning out which one has a sticking float, there's the oldschool trick of attaching clear line to the drain spout, opening the drain valve, and seeing where the fuel levels off with the carb. It needs to line up with float bowl seam. If it goes over, it's overflowing.

 

Also,if your float bowls gaskets look dry-rotted or cracked. You can use some Permatex indianhead gasket sealer on them. I've used it with great success.