No worries thanks for the help and suggestions so far, so I went back out tried again and I did see one spark from the 2/3 coil I retested the icm with the tests 16-6 passed them all I'm completely stumped. I tried to turn it off and try the 1/4 coil and I lost all spark again I'm not sure what's going on

I guess all I can do is continue retesting everything maybe start with the pulse generator

As far as the tach jumping around while I try to start I found a picture that shows the correct placement for the yellow green wire that controls the tach signal and it is in the correct spot. So it must be from the new icm, if anyone else if following has that happened to anyone else's bike when they replaced the icm with a Caltric on Theirs? I'm assuming it's working properly because it's brand new even though I have received new broken parts in the past

 

Hi , read through your post again, still cant help feeling its an earthing problem, take a look at your earthing cable from the battery, check that it has no breaks from and to the battery, cant express enough the value of good earths

 

Cool, I have some other work today but I'll check the grounds again first that's as good of a starting point as any. I've checked continuity from the icm plug to ground and it seemed fine but I'll pull the grounds and make sure the connections are spotless I might even throw new terminals on the grounds just to know their clean

 

your in luck... i just took my F2 apart today here you go

 

[QUOTE=tampa_git;1306245]Any chance you can take a picture of your icm plug? I need to see where the wires go. I took my time I was very careful but maybe i messed up while wiring the icm

The tach gets it signal strait from the icm so if it's jumping around while I'm trying to start the bike maybe I wired it wrong better safe than sorry[/QUOTE

a few more

 

Perfect thank you so much,

Where is your black/white wire? I'll try to upload a picture of mine but I have everything the same but I have my black/white for the ignition coils next to the green/white behind the yellow/green that goes to the tach (our tach wire is in the same location i don't know why I'm seeing the tach signals when I'm trying to start the bike)

 

I'm bringing this back from the dead! I'm in Tampa and have been restoring a old bungalow and have survived the hurricane and I finally have some free time to finish this up and get her running again, and I'm about to pull the motor from my truck and would like to have some way to get around haha

Ok so I have seen spark!!! Problem is its random and far between. I know I have compression fuel and correct timing so spark is all I'm missing. Read through previous posts to see what's been tested and replaced but it's pretty much everything in the ignition system

The only thing I can find is when I press the start button the black/white wire that connects with both of the coils drops under 10v (~9v) after the motor turns over two or three times (drops from 12.3 down) all other circuits stay above 11.23v when cranking which should be enough to spark.

With that being said I get continuity but maybe it has too much resistance? The solders look dirty but I do get continuity.. Is there any chance someone could check the rsistance of their kill switch (black/yekllow and black/white) and possibly test what their voltage is at that junction with the coils and ground while cranking? (Black/white and ground)

Only other option I guess is soldering and seeing if that lowers the resistance or replacing the kill switch but I'd rather not just throw parts at this, I have everything to rewire things if needed but I only want to replace things that I can test as bad

Any thoughts?

 

I have 11.3 volts at the starter relay where the battery connects (while cranking), I get just over 10v from the output to the ignition switch. By the time I get to the junction after the kills switch where the black/white splits on with the coils and icm(cdi) I only get above 9v, I'm guessing this could be from the resistance in the wires? Connectors between kill switch and coils up through the icm has been rewired thicker than stock so I can't imagine that the resistance from the wires could get much lower which is why I'm thinking that the starter Relay must be going bad. kill switch seems to be working but I can pull it out and clean it and use some dielectric grease and the ignition switch itself was replaced not too long ago and is brand new condition

So here's the questions

I should be getting 12v or more going from the starter relay to the ignition switch correct? (Red/black)

If I use a universal starter relay the appears to match the stock is it the same wiring? should I just be able to plug it in and go? I know this is probably a easy question to answer on my own and I will look into but I figured if anyone has personal experiences or tips why not ask for them

Just to clarify, should both posts on the ignitions coils get 12v or Does the icm drive the coils by working the ground? If so I should have 12v at the positive (blue) post and I should be able to use a multi meter between the negative (black) post and ground and when they fire I should get 12v at the negative post? I'm just trying to make sure I get the right voltage at the right place on the coils

Also

Can anyone confirm this for me and if possible check and post the resistance of their kill switch (black/yellow and black/white on the red plug under the tach) just so I have a base line to compare too

Thanks for the help this no spark has been a head scratcher for me

 

Use this as a fault finder

 

I downloaded and read the trouble shoot great general guide will use again in the future for other projects and potentially this one, unfortunately it assumes you have enough spark to start the motor and rev the motor up to start the charging and measuring the current. Since I have no spark it wont start and I Cant really use the rest of the trouble shoot

With all that being said the battery is less than 3 months old on a tender in the garage in tampas mild climate never gets freezing cold so I know the battery (and charging side) isn't the issue...unless it's possible the stator provides extra power to the starter relay giving it enough power for starting?

I replaced the plug and starter relay all contacts are new and clean. I do get +11v while cranking at the relay but still only get 9.4v while cranking at the kill switch wire that connects to the coils. Is it possible I have too much resistance through the kill switch or ignition switch? I haven't found any specs on those. I'm getting stumped and don't have the money or time for a shop to scratch their heads over it

I could put in thicker wire between the starter relay and ignition switch I guess. I guess I'll measure the ignition switch input then output while cranking first see if something is off there.

I have good grounds but it never hurts to clean them again

Other than that any other thoughts?