also i def can take the tire of so the sprocket is easy to change? how bout the front sprocket id def rather do this myself and save some cash

 

ive recently changed my sprockets and chain, and they are def easy as hell, i used an air wrench to take the front sprocket off though cause i couldn't gain enough leverage with hand tools.. The important thing to remember is when putting on the new sprockets, don't over torque anything.

 

.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .....or hold the rear brake and undo the front sprocket

 

15/43 is the stock F2 setup.
As far as the chain length, if you buy it as a kit, they will give you the proper length of chain, though, that said, I have had to take a link out with my last two set purchases, for the fit to be just where I want it.
I would also, if I were you, be sure that you get a master link which requires you to "peen" it, and not a clip style master link - they are not as durable.

 

That didnt work for me, tried the 2x4 in rear spokes as well, no bueno... air tools = mucho bueno

 

is it easy to remove a link? also i can ask for a dif style master link?im def getting it from sprocketcenter best prices by far

 

It's plenty easy if you have a chain-breaker tool - I have both a pricey one, and a cheap $10 one from Harbor Freight, which has worked fine for breaking the peened links - if you have a Dremel, or similar cutting/grinding tool, to cut/grind down the "mushroom" like head on the peened pins, and something to knock the pin out with, like punches, you can remove links without a special tool.
As far as your "choice" of what type of link, I don't think I've ever bought a chain, where the product details don't describe what kind of master link comes with the chain, but honestly, I don't know if I'm recalling correctly - I just know that I only buy D.I.D chains, and that all of them that I have ordered, have come with a master link that requires peening, and don't use the weaker "clip" style.

About "peening" - it requires a ball peen hammer, that you will use to carefully pound the head of the pin, once it's installed through the outer link plates, which will deform the head of the pin, causing it to be unable to slide back through the plates - it's not hard, you just have to set yourself up with the right positioning, tools, and such. Some chains, which use a master link requiring peening, will have instructions on how to do it. Oh, and, you won't need the hammer and other stuff, if you have one of the "pricey" chain tools, that can break the chain AND peen the pin for you.

 

awesome JNS thx for all ur help, I cant wait to get this new setup bc i have a feeling its gonna be like night and day. You said uve went through a couple of sets how many miles do u think i should get outta the AFAM workslite 520 set with the DID ERV-3 chain approx?

 

Rob, I don't want to possibly steer you wrong there, since it's all relative to how hard you ride, how often you fully clean and lube the chain, blah, blah, blah.
And honestly, as much as I am a "data freak", I have failed miserably at logging mileage - at tire changes, chain replacements/adjustments, etc.
I can say that I ride nearly all season long, and that the most recent chain and sprocket set was installed in the first few days of August of last year - I have roughly 6000 or more miles on this set, some of which is track use.

 

I guess theres only one way to find out. 6k + is def acceptable for me. What is a good method to clean your sprockets?