CBR 600F2 1991 - 1994 CBR 600F2

92CBR600 F2-Intro

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  #11  
Old 07-21-2013, 03:25 PM
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No. The number one vacuum line is either capped or hooked to a diaphragm type petcock. The two vent lines from the tank go to a evap cannister or to the atmosphere depending on being a 49 state or Calif model. Both the thin and thick hoses go from the nipples to the cannister on my Calif bike.

I had a problem with a sticking throttle. Checked all the usual suspects. It turned out that the stock handle bars are filled with rubber and there is a hole in the bar under the throttle and the rubber had squeezed out and would drag on the throttle tube. Take of the throttle and make sure nothing is binding there. Sometimes a handgrip will be pushed too far on the throttle and it will rub and drag.
 
  #12  
Old 07-21-2013, 03:49 PM
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Here is the skinny vacuum hose on the left side of the motor. This is connected to the skinny nipple on the gas tank.
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Here is the right side of the airbox. This nipple is ghetto blocked. Should it stay blocked or do I connect it to something?
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This is the carb on cylinder #2. Should this nipple be blocked off?
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And finally, this is the carb on cylinder #3. The skinny vacuum hose is not connected to anything. Should it be? Should I just put a cap on it?

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  #13  
Old 07-21-2013, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by gpfan1
No. The number one vacuum line is either capped or hooked to a diaphragm type petcock. The two vent lines from the tank go to a evap cannister or to the atmosphere depending on being a 49 state or Calif model. Both the thin and thick hoses go from the nipples to the cannister on my Calif bike.

I had a problem with a sticking throttle. Checked all the usual suspects. It turned out that the stock handle bars are filled with rubber and there is a hole in the bar under the throttle and the rubber had squeezed out and would drag on the throttle tube. Take of the throttle and make sure nothing is binding there. Sometimes a handgrip will be pushed too far on the throttle and it will rub and drag.
Ok, I will cap off both nipples on the tank and the one on the number one cylinder.
 
  #14  
Old 07-22-2013, 09:56 AM
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Just ordered an APE CCT, I will install it when I get back from vacation.
Took the bike around the block about 10 times. It bogs down if I job the throttle at low rpms, regains power if I ease into it. I will mess with the pilot screw a bit and try to get some power down low. If not, I will look into some jet kits.
Put the fairings back on. They are beatttttt up lol
I need to do an oil change, transmission fluid change, coolant, get my chain tight, headlight bulb, rear signals(previous owner just cut the wires).
Any input on what type of fluids I should use?
 
  #15  
Old 07-22-2013, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by mitzu
Hey thanks for the reply.
My petcock does not have a nipple on it at all. The gas tank does have TWO nipples, one skinny and one fat. I connected the vacuum line from the motor(number 1 cyl) to the skinny one on the tank.
The vaccum line from cylinder 1 is what's used to actuate the F2 petock's diaphragm, opening it to allow fuel to flow - if your petcock only has the one larger nipple, for fuel to the carbs, then you don't have an OEM F2 petcock, and that vacuum port on cylinder 1 needs to be capped off... the small nipple on the bottom of the tank just needs a length of hose attached and left hanging, as it is just a vent hose.

Originally Posted by mitzu
The I left the fat nipple on the tank as is, not sure if I should have capped it.
The fatter of those two, on the bottom of the tank, is for fuel overflow, this also should just have a length of hose connected, and routed down, like the smaller vent line, neither of these hoses should have something connected to the other end, they should just hang free, about 1 to 1 1/2 foot or so... you'll see little channels for these hoses to sit in, on the frame, as you lower the tank in place - just make sure neither line is kinked when you have the tank in place.
 
  #16  
Old 07-25-2013, 12:39 AM
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All vacuum lines need to be plugged. Any open ones will cause your bike to idle poorly and run like, well, you know. Oil change will take care of the tranny, as the engine and gears use the same oil supply. 10-40 Golden Spectro is my oil of choice, but there are many good quality oils out there. Oil changes on schedule are more important than the brand of oil. Like JNS said, the tank vent lines just need to be proper length and not kinked or capped.
 
  #17  
Old 04-03-2014, 10:03 PM
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I am pretty fed up with this bike. I want to get it running but I am sick and tired of fixing other people's mistakes. Put a "new to me" harness on since the other one was soo cut up. Put new throttle cables and throttle tube on because the other ones were bad. Fired her up and gas is pouring out of the carbs. As soon as I turn my tank to on or reserve it starts pouring out.
...
 
  #18  
Old 04-03-2014, 10:09 PM
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Don't give up. Think of it as bringing a work of art back to life.
 
  #19  
Old 04-04-2014, 12:34 AM
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Wheres it pouring out from? Either your floats are stuck, the rubber float seals are dry rto or the gaskets for the float blows are no good. Could be other things but I'd start there. Again tell where exactly it's leaking and we can diagnose it better.
 
  #20  
Old 04-04-2014, 07:16 AM
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I am not giving up on it yet. I will tear open the carbs today, last night I did not have time to take a good look at it since it was about 9 p.m. and I had to get to bed.
The fuel leak stunk up the house all night, my wife was pissed.
 


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