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-   -   Winter projects (https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f-15/winter-projects-153045/)

CorruptFile 12-13-2014 01:15 PM

Winter projects
 
2 Attachment(s)
Anyone have winter projects for their 'canes? My garage is filled to the max now with 2 bikes in there, but I still intend on some upgrades this off season.
I did the valves earlier and glad I did because they were wound up tighter than a nun at mardi gras. Gotta replace the timing cap, as I cracked it during reinstall :(.
Other than that, I plan to do the Factory Pro shift kit (not looking forward to that one again) and the stick coil mod. I was looking at SB's thread on it for the 1kf and figured it should be pretty straight forward to apply here. My only concern is getting the correct caps. In his thread, he writes


The coils must be 1.0 to 1.3 ohms each - measure this with a Volt/Ohm Ω meter - and check the Ohms of the connected probes before measuring the Ohms of the coils - a probe on each coil connector (+ and -) then subtract the base ohms of the leads and you have the ohms of the coil. This is important because we are going to wire the coils up in series and total Ohms should be between 2.0 and 2.6 Ohms for a pair of stick coils. This equates to the Ohms of the OEM set-up.

Primary resistance of the CBR1000F OEM Honda coil for 2 plugs is 2.0 to 2.6 Ohms (Ω) . That means that pairs of stick coils must be in this range - or single stick coils 1.0 Ohms to 1.3 Ohms.
I was comparing to what the 600f fsm says, which is 2.5-3.1 ohms? Am I reading into this right?
Attachment 88828

Also, comparing to what he 1kf manual says:
Attachment 88829

They should be pretty close. Where does he get the 2.0 - 2.6 ohms from?


Anyways, I'd like to see if anyone else has projects going?

CorruptFile 12-13-2014 01:24 PM

I'm looking at these coils 04 Honda CBR 1000 RR 1000RR Ignition Coils 74D | eBay

dennisgb 12-13-2014 01:45 PM

The RR conversion is in the basement and am working on it. Still finishing up from summer when my back went out. I was just about ready to start it up when I went down and had to have fusion surgery. Long recovery. Just starting to feel decent and surgery was in Sept. It's in a warm place so I can continue to finish it up.


I also have the Norton 850 in my dining room. Am working on starter conversion using Harley starter. That bike will be on the bench soon as I want to ride it next summer.


All the other bikes are in storage for the winter.


Not sure about your coils...but am interested if there are others that will work.

hawkwind 12-13-2014 02:33 PM

You guys are so lucky, those coils in the UK would cost a lot more than that! Maybe $150 not including the wiring loom, $200 together maybe :(

Good luck with the conversion, a lot of 1000F riders have done the conversion and swear by it, including Seb and Sprock.

Doc B. 12-13-2014 04:39 PM

After 18 months my RR conversion is at about 99% completion. Just wrapped up a lot of cosmetics the past couple of days during a rare stretch of half decent Seattle winter weather. I'll post some detailed pics once I get my studio strobe supply rebuilt. In the meantime here is the latest crappy phone pic -

http://imageshack.com/a/img904/9200/EnCbVZ.jpg

CorruptFile 12-13-2014 05:10 PM

I've been following both yours and dennisgb's builds with envy. They look great. If you come north of the border for a ride let me know!

CorruptFile 12-14-2014 02:23 PM

Well the shift kit is ordered, as well as the timing cap and the stake nut for the clutch basket.

hawkwind 12-15-2014 06:12 AM

This winter will include :-

new chain and sprockets,

new tyres,

while the tyres are off I'll polish the rims.

If I can find the time I'll also :-

paint the front fender,

maybe re-paint the swing arm with silver caliper paint (hope it'll be tougher than the last stuff I used).

and also paint the disc centers and calipers in gold.

There are some other small jobs I hope to get around to as well, depends on weather I can escape from the wife/domestic duties :D

Doc B. 12-15-2014 02:40 PM

I suggest following dennisgb's advice from his Hurricane RR conversion thread and shoot 2K clear topcoat over whatever you put on the swingarm. That stuff is the only rattle can paint I've used that is truly durable. I used clear gloss on my wheels and clear matte on my swingarm and both have held up well to bumps and dings. The gloss in particular is very tough.

Which leads me to a small digression that might be of some use to anyone doing some winter painting -

My bike also has vinyl wrap, frame epoxy, engine enamel, X-metal candy coat, caliper paint and Plastidip on it.

Top of the list for me is probably the candy coat with 2K clear you see on the wheels. Looks killer and is very tough. Bottom of the list is the Duplicolor caliper paint on the calipers. Let's just say its unique feature is that it washes off easily with brake fluid. The VHT epoxy frame paint is quite nice, not quite as tough as I hoped, but it did get abused here and there during all the fitting of parts. I probably should have listened to Dennis and put 2K over it. The Duplicolor engine enamel on the motor and swingarm has held up pretty well, though I had an issue with what appears to have been a hot coolant or steam leak lifting some of it, and it didn't adhere too well to the plastic hugger, even though an adhesion promoter was laid down first. I did not bake that plastic part, natch, so that could be the root of the issue.

One of my bigger concerns was the durability of the Plastidip on the seat fairing and lowers. It's very soft and rubbery at first and easy to damage. However when I was putting the right lower on I stepped back to look at my work and felt something under my shoe. The left lower! Picked it up, wiped off the dirt from my shoe and couldn't find a scratch. I shot it a few weeks ago and it seems to have cured very nicely. The only ding so far has been from a dropped wrench.

Sabotage 12-15-2014 03:51 PM

[QUOTE=Doc B.;1284023]I suggest following dennisgb's advice from his Hurricane RR conversion thread and shoot 2K clear topcoat over whatever you put on the swingarm. That stuff is the only rattle can paint I've used that is truly durable. I used clear gloss on my wheels and clear matte on my swingarm and both have held up well to bumps and dings. The gloss in particular is very tough.
QUOTE]

Regarding the clear, the 2K is the best. I just cleared over my F3 project paint job and the thing works great. I wish I knew about it before using those regular clears that would not last and chipped.

I did the stick mod on my F3 but I just did monkey see monkey do after another forum member did the mod. I used the f4i coils and ran them in series and everything came out great. The only problem is when I put the sticks in there wasn't any suction cover to keep the caps in please. I had to cut rubber hose to wrap them around the sticks to wedge them into place to not move. With that mod, now there a concern that if it rain some moisture can find it's way into the motor. I do not really ride in the rain any more so I'm not too concerns about that.

Some other cool mods you can consider is a quick shifter. I added one to my F3 and it works great.

I'm not familiar with the 600F throttle tube but I just did the R6 throttle tube mod, now I have 100% throttle with one twist of the wrist.


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