Hmm okay. I will ask more people so I get the data correct.

Thanks!

 

You're welcome!

Which experts are these? What results do they have that you are trying to achieve? Yes, they may be saying to check often, but they shouldn't be saying to over-inflate. That's something completely different than checking often.

You need better metrics to measure than pressure. I believe that maximum-traction for braking and cornering is safest, and better measurement than max-load/max-speed capacity of tyre. Because you never know when you have to do sudden swerve or braking maneuver to avoid an obstacle like car coming at you in wrong lane or deer in road. Those moves will take you from 0g on friction circle to traction-limit with combined cornering and braking forces. Over-inflated tyres will give you 1g traction max (often less). While set at optimum pressure, you can get 1.3-1.4g. Significantly more grip. Here's an example of tyres not providing optimum grip (because new riders often over-inflate their tyres).


Another reason moto & tyre makers recommend over inflating tyres to max-load@max-speed setting is due to leakage. Most people don't check their tyres often enough and with leakage, tyres may drop below optimum-traction settings.

I'm used to checking my tyre-pressure 4-5x per day to arrive at optimum performance settings (which also happens to match max tyre-life). Dave Moss's videos helped me set up my VFR. I was getting uneven wear on my rear Q3+ tyres. Note feathering of edges of sipes and it would be through wear bars in 2-days.



With Dave’s help, I increased rear rebound damping. Which gained me 0.5s/lap faster times. And he suggested I go from 2.0 down to 1.85 bar pressure in rear. That gained me another 0.5s lap! Just damping and pressure changes gained me enough extra traction to be almost entire football pitch ahead of myself earlier that same day! And now my rear tyre is lasting 3-days with more even wear!



For maximum safety, you too should start tracking numbers that actually matter. Practice maximum-braking efforts in parking lots. Extremely helpful for beginning riders. Then vary tyre-pressures and find settings that give you best-braking with shortest stopping distance. I assure you, it’s not pressures listed in manual!

 

Cool! There is a science to it. I just don't want to be to low for traffic. Now I am confident that alight below manual is probably only good. Strange that manual says higher pressure R but it should be vice versa. it will probably ber more clear in the future.

 

Remember, this is universal setting they came up to cover ALL bikes under ALL conditions. Not all bikes have sportbike's perfect balance. There are others...







... that will have over 550kg on tyres when loaded up with close to double weight on rear as front. Or others like H2R with 400kph top-speed that'll significantly stress its rear tyre little bit more at that speed than yours. Yet, they all have exact 2.5/2.9 bar pressure rating. So stoopid!!!

Another tool I've found extremely useful for gathering data in scientific manner is non-contact pyrometer.



It gives you final results of tyre-pressure settings along with tyre-construction, riding-style and road-conditions combined. All of these results in certain amount of tyre-casing flex and temperature. Higher pressures results in less flex, less heat and less traction. Lower pressures have more flex, higher temperatures and more traction.

Street-based tyres have optimum traction and tyre-life around 80C while race tyres are best around 90C.

Or course, tyre and moto makers won't tell you that because when you're at that setting, it's only tiny bit more speed and you'll actually overheat tyre and it will slide and grip like butter! All those little ***** on edge is molten rubber that's scraped from centre and pushed to edge as tyre slides!



It takes many, many years of practice at limit before one can go fast enough to push tyre to that limit and go over... Most crashes on street are due to pushing cold tyres and insufficient traction...

 

Haha and 2.9 R and 2.5 F. Same guy who built Titan decided this?. should atl least be 2.9 F and 2.5 R if understand this correctly.