I took my carbs off for the second time to clean them. This time I used spray cleaner to clean the main jets, idle jets, and held open the coke lever and sprayed the small holes in all 4 barrels on my hurricane.

First question I have is, on one of the carbs (3rd i think) it looks like the choke switch valve is not connected to the rod which actuates the other three switch valves. Is this normal? Only reason I'm asking is because there is a thing to pull out the switch valve, BUT when I manually pull it out there is no slot to attach the (thing) into the choke switch valve. Confusing I know. sorry.

Next, after cleaning my jets, I took the red straw off the cleaner and just used the broad spray to clean much of the gunk off my carb body. After putting it back together and letting it set overnight I found that my throttle was STICKING! I looked at it for a minute and took the carb back off to find the throttle valve is so sticky I can barely move it with my fingers alone. I think I need to use wd40 or more carb cleaner then hurry and wash it off with soap and water before it gums up. Any thoughts?

 

hey bro

I've just started cleaning my carbs also. I'll do a quick vid showing my set with the choke rod and individual plunger operation as soon as I can (may take a day or two) unless you are advised by someone else before me. I reckon the choke rod operates the plungers on all carbs tho.

Also, the honda service manual for our bike may be able to help you out a little. If you don't already have it you can download it on this forum. the carb schematics are in section 4.

 

I've opened up my carbs a couple times.

One thing I recommend is get a piece of small, stranded wire. strip about 2ft of it. Take one strand out and use it to clean out the smaller holes. Push it til you see the other end. This will get all blockages out of them.

As for it sticking, make sure nothing is bent. If you have to lube it, I wouldn't recommend WD40 as it can eat the seals. I use spray silicon lube for everything on my bike if it needs lubed (rear brake switch and pivot, carb slides, not my chain). I use WD40 more for breaking loose bolts and even then, I prefer PB Blaster.

I wouldn't recommend soap and water on something like that. I use spray carb cleaner or gasoline and scrub with a toothbrush. It's small enough to get into tight spaces, hard bristles take the stuff off nicely, and they are cheap.

The choke not having a screw in it or does it not have the whole piece that goes from the choke rail to the choke valve? If it's missing a screw, you can pop out another one, take it to a hardware store and find a replacement. If it's missing the whole part, I don't know what to tell you

 

I cleaned my old carbs from my 85 ninja in a 50:50 mixture of lemon juice and water. Boiled the whole rack for about half an hour. Never been better.

And yeah, there should be a choke plunger on the #3. Post pics

 

I would use compressed air vs sticking a wire into the jets..

 

I learned to use wire like that by talking to my BMW mechanic. He has a rather large collection of older bikes. Told me that's how he cleans out the smaller passageways. He showed me an old set of Kawi carbs he had, said they were gummed, sprayed them with cleaner, and ran compressed air through. Then he took a strand of copper wire, ran it through, and out comes a little piece of dirt stuck to the end of the wire.

That's why I recommended it.

 

Using a thin piece of wire is fine for the orifices. BUT using wire in the jets is never recommended. The brass is too soft to use copper or steel on, unless your very careful. One scratched jet can cause a cascade of problems.

 

Yes exactly.. the brass jets can be very easily damaged. The rest of the passages are probably ok, but would still use a very soft piece of wire if you want to do so.

 

Oh crap, I got the carbs unstuck with WD and just working it till free again. But after putting the carb back on the stinking bowls were leaking like a sieve. I am at a loss. Is there anything I could put on the bowl seals that would cause them to swell a little to regain the seal? I priced them and they cost like 30 dollars for a set. Kinda high if I can fix them with something else. Any ideas?

 

There are some gas resistant RTV silicone sealants available, but I have never tried using them for something like that. If you get any inside the carbs that breaks loose in the bowl you will probably create more problems and have to take them apart again anyway.

I would personally just replace the gaskets, but the RTV might work if you are willing to take the chance. You're only saving about 20 bucks if you can get the 4 bowl gaskets for $30 anyways.