Shock Upgrade
#11
03-03-2007, 05:20 AM
RE: Shock Upgrade
Yeah, cut down and re-welded is what I meant by adjusted. Just trying to make sure. There's so many links and shocks in the pictures. I initially thought the fabricated link would be a combination of two, ie top half from F3 shock, bottom from 87. I suppose with a spare link (or Dogbone) this would negate use of spacers?
#12
03-06-2007, 04:53 PM
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RE: Shock Upgrade
ORIGINAL: Stokersrule
Yeah, cut down and re-welded is what I meant by adjusted. Just trying to make sure. There's so many links and shocks in the pictures. I initially thought the fabricated link would be a combination of two, ie top half from F3 shock, bottom from 87. I suppose with a spare link (or Dogbone) this would negate use of spacers?
Yeah, cut down and re-welded is what I meant by adjusted. Just trying to make sure. There's so many links and shocks in the pictures. I initially thought the fabricated link would be a combination of two, ie top half from F3 shock, bottom from 87. I suppose with a spare link (or Dogbone) this would negate use of spacers?
The linkscame from a 93 CBR600F3 and the shock is from the 98.
The only modificationI made wasto the dog bone link and spacers.
Everything else bolted rightto the bike.
#13
03-14-2007, 05:13 PM
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RE: Shock Upgrade
ebay item:shock and linkage for sale cheap ($15.99)
Thesearethe partsneededfor theshock upgradeon the F1.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-HO...86579457QQrdZ1
Thesearethe partsneededfor theshock upgradeon the F1.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-HO...86579457QQrdZ1
#14
02-10-2021, 07:54 PM
As we all know the rear shock on the CBR600F1 has some short comings.
Like the lack of real adjustability for rebound and dampening and the design of the 87-90F1 shock leaves Hurricane owners limited in choices for improvements.
So I got to thinking on just how can the rear suspension be improved without spending big bucks on a high dollar Ohlins or White Power type shock.
So off to Ebay I went searching the auctions looking for just the right CBR600 Shock and linkages that would mount on the F1 swing arm and frame without the cutting of either.
And here is what I came up with.
First, I purchased a 98CBR600 F3 Shock, I decided on this shock because of it’s design.
This shock has the ability for rebound / dampening and preload adjustments.
This shock’s nitrogen reservoir has a pigtail of 12 inches making the mounting possibilities favorable for the F1 and as abonus this shock has fine tuning adjustability on the shock base and on the reservoir to help eliminate wheel hop on hard braking in the corners. (which was basically what I was looking to eliminate)!
Other CBR600 shocks either have short reservoir pigtails or the reservoir is mounted directly to the shock body itself making mounting of this type of shock difficult without chopping up the frame or battery box which was out of the question.
Plus an added bonusthis shock (98CBR600F3) is plentiful and inexpensive on ebay, I spent $23.00 on my shock.
Second, again I went searching for shock / swing arm linkages and what I found on ebay was also inexpensive and plentiful.
It is the OEM linkage from the 93 CBR600F3.
(I spent $25.00 for the links on ebay)
This linkage is similar to the F1 but with the changes needed to accept the newer style CBR600 shock.
And with minimal modification on one of these links, this is a pretty easy upgrade for the rear suspension for the F1.
Basically, after carefull measurementsI cut and removed 1-3/8 inches of aluminum from the center of the F3's dog bone link and Tig welded the two pieces back together.
And cut 2 spacers to keep the dog bone link from moving side to side on the lower link mount.
I know a lot of you don't have access to a Tig welder, but for 50 bucks or lessyou could have this link welded for the upgrade.
This is a simple upgrade for themechanically minded. 2 cuts of the dog bone linkand 1 weld.
Basically in a nut shell,you determine the rear ride height on the F1by how much alluminum you remove from the dog bone link.
I removed 1-3/8 inches of aluminumfrom the link to have a final ride height of 18-3/4 inches, up from the OEM of17-1/2 inches.
link to project photos.
http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...icane%20Shock/
Like the lack of real adjustability for rebound and dampening and the design of the 87-90F1 shock leaves Hurricane owners limited in choices for improvements.
So I got to thinking on just how can the rear suspension be improved without spending big bucks on a high dollar Ohlins or White Power type shock.
So off to Ebay I went searching the auctions looking for just the right CBR600 Shock and linkages that would mount on the F1 swing arm and frame without the cutting of either.
And here is what I came up with.
First, I purchased a 98CBR600 F3 Shock, I decided on this shock because of it’s design.
This shock has the ability for rebound / dampening and preload adjustments.
This shock’s nitrogen reservoir has a pigtail of 12 inches making the mounting possibilities favorable for the F1 and as abonus this shock has fine tuning adjustability on the shock base and on the reservoir to help eliminate wheel hop on hard braking in the corners. (which was basically what I was looking to eliminate)!
Other CBR600 shocks either have short reservoir pigtails or the reservoir is mounted directly to the shock body itself making mounting of this type of shock difficult without chopping up the frame or battery box which was out of the question.
Plus an added bonusthis shock (98CBR600F3) is plentiful and inexpensive on ebay, I spent $23.00 on my shock.
Second, again I went searching for shock / swing arm linkages and what I found on ebay was also inexpensive and plentiful.
It is the OEM linkage from the 93 CBR600F3.
(I spent $25.00 for the links on ebay)
This linkage is similar to the F1 but with the changes needed to accept the newer style CBR600 shock.
And with minimal modification on one of these links, this is a pretty easy upgrade for the rear suspension for the F1.
Basically, after carefull measurementsI cut and removed 1-3/8 inches of aluminum from the center of the F3's dog bone link and Tig welded the two pieces back together.
And cut 2 spacers to keep the dog bone link from moving side to side on the lower link mount.
I know a lot of you don't have access to a Tig welder, but for 50 bucks or lessyou could have this link welded for the upgrade.
This is a simple upgrade for themechanically minded. 2 cuts of the dog bone linkand 1 weld.
Basically in a nut shell,you determine the rear ride height on the F1by how much alluminum you remove from the dog bone link.
I removed 1-3/8 inches of aluminumfrom the link to have a final ride height of 18-3/4 inches, up from the OEM of17-1/2 inches.
link to project photos.
http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...icane%20Shock/
I really wish I could see these photos
I just had the dog one re milled out of fresh aluminum and got it all bolted in and it doesn't work. Like the swing arm won't swing
#16
02-22-2021, 03:28 PM
#18
02-23-2021, 08:41 AM
Tks budNow I need to find a way to make a longer kick stand! Trying to get it to run a bit better year after yearBuying up anything that may helpI have the coil over update
all the parst that factory pro sell
Next I think I'm going to try larger rear sprocket
And is there a way to improve on the computer/ecu? I did purchase a new one to see if it helps at all
all the parst that factory pro sell
Next I think I'm going to try larger rear sprocket
And is there a way to improve on the computer/ecu? I did purchase a new one to see if it helps at all
#19
02-23-2021, 09:14 AM
Welcome crew
You would probably have to cut and weld a new piece in the kick stand if you wanted it longer or get one of these Rubber dapping block 100mm x 100mm x 20mm (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rubber-da...72.m2749.l2649)
Not sure about the ECU, but if you wanted smoother running etc, then you would probably have to go for a Dynojet Kit and have it set up on a rolling road.
I have a PCIII on mine and it has significantly improves the low end and the traditional 5-6k flat spot.
Not sure about the ECU, but if you wanted smoother running etc, then you would probably have to go for a Dynojet Kit and have it set up on a rolling road.
I have a PCIII on mine and it has significantly improves the low end and the traditional 5-6k flat spot.
#20
02-23-2021, 07:55 PM
You would probably have to cut and weld a new piece in the kick stand if you wanted it longer or get one of these Rubber dapping block 100mm x 100mm x 20mm (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rubber-da...72.m2749.l2649)
Not sure about the ECU, but if you wanted smoother running etc, then you would probably have to go for a Dynojet Kit and have it set up on a rolling road.
I have a PCIII on mine and it has significantly improves the low end and the traditional 5-6k flat spot.
Not sure about the ECU, but if you wanted smoother running etc, then you would probably have to go for a Dynojet Kit and have it set up on a rolling road.
I have a PCIII on mine and it has significantly improves the low end and the traditional 5-6k flat spot.