New CCT question not covered in CCT main post.
#1
03-05-2009, 03:43 PM
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New CCT question not covered in CCT main post.
I've been reading the posts on CCT. I've searched the posts on CCT. I can find one mention where a CBR Forum member took his own stock CCT and converted/machined it into a mechanical CCT - but I can not find the post anywhere!!
To be clear, I don't want to buy a mechanical CCT, I want to take my own stock CCT and convert it into a mechanical CCT.
Can anyone point me to the actual post describing this process? Thanks, Rob.
To be clear, I don't want to buy a mechanical CCT, I want to take my own stock CCT and convert it into a mechanical CCT.
Can anyone point me to the actual post describing this process? Thanks, Rob.
#3
03-08-2009, 12:54 PM
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Still searching for the answer... Question re-written.
Joshua, I had seen your excellent conversion thread. You did a great job on that. I am still looking for the answer though....
I should probably re-write my question to ask "who has taken a stock CCT and machined the stock CCT housing to accept a bolt and nut to effectively turn the stock CCT into a mechanical CCT?"
It was mentioned in one of the CCT threads, and the author said "search the forum." I haven't been able to find that mystical post anywhere!
I should probably re-write my question to ask "who has taken a stock CCT and machined the stock CCT housing to accept a bolt and nut to effectively turn the stock CCT into a mechanical CCT?"
It was mentioned in one of the CCT threads, and the author said "search the forum." I haven't been able to find that mystical post anywhere!
#5
03-11-2009, 09:08 AM
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03-12-2009, 04:44 PM
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Yea, me too. Buuuut our bike doesnt have that bolt behind the piston. I went ahead and pulled mine off to see if any mods could be made. I had limited play in the piston so i kept working it until all the oil was out of it and then sprayed some wd-40 on it while i pumped. Got full motion out of it and everything felt solid so I threw it back in and..........problem solved. No clicking and I saved some money. Awesome.
#8
03-17-2009, 05:05 AM
Convert CCT automatic adjuster to manual
Coincidence: I've just converted my adjuster to manual a couple of days ago, because the performance of the OEM one was unreliable (sometimes it worked, sometimes not, didn't matter how much I cleaned it and checked oilways etc).
The way I did it left the oil pressure and plunger spring in place (complicated the modification process and maybe unnecessary, but I thought it might be interesting to do and maybe reduce the amount of manual adjusting), and fitted a 6mm threaded rod right through the guts of the thing so it pushed on the back of the existing plunger. Used a sealing washer under the locknut at the back of the casting.
There are lots of simpler ways of designing it, but to me the advantage was only needing a few tools, no lathe, and keeping much of the original equipment and intent of the adjuster in place (like spring and oil pressure assist).
The basic steps were:
1. remove & dismantle the adjuster, remove the one-way valve inside,
2. using the steel valve seat as a guide bush, drill a pilot hole through the blank end of the casting,
3. heat the casting to 250 C so you can push the valve seat out (by putting a drift or similar down the hole you just drilled),
4. drill out the pilot hole in the end of the casting and tap it M6x1.0. File or sand the end of the casting (the area around the hole) flat enough for a sealing washer to seal against.
5. use high temp cyanoacrlyate (eg Permabond 820) to glue a 6mm flange nut where the valve seat used to be. The threads had to be synched to the thread on the end of the casting. Also, before doing so I drilled a 1.5mm hole through the nut so oil could get from the back of the adjuster through the nut to pressurize the plunger chamber. Note that the plunger has to fit over the nut to retract fully. An 8mm a/f nut does the trick, but you have to make sure its properly centred in the chamber.
6. make a centering washer so the existing spring sits central on top of the flange nut and not bind on the plunger. (The spring used to be centralised by the one way valve),
7. use a 75mm long bolt (threaded full length) as the adjuster, and put a locknut, steel washer, and sealing washer on it (to seal between the end of the casting and the locknut, which clamps down on the end of the casting. (I used leather as I didn't have rubber available at the time -seems to work!) Bolt must turn easily - it needs to be like that so you can feel when it contacts the inside back of the plunger.
8. throw it together, adjust it carefully (lots of advice on that already) and bingo, no fuggin CCT noise, and LOTS less vibration at 5000rpm. Wunderbar!
If I get time tomorrow will post a picture. [Now attached]
G
The way I did it left the oil pressure and plunger spring in place (complicated the modification process and maybe unnecessary, but I thought it might be interesting to do and maybe reduce the amount of manual adjusting), and fitted a 6mm threaded rod right through the guts of the thing so it pushed on the back of the existing plunger. Used a sealing washer under the locknut at the back of the casting.
There are lots of simpler ways of designing it, but to me the advantage was only needing a few tools, no lathe, and keeping much of the original equipment and intent of the adjuster in place (like spring and oil pressure assist).
The basic steps were:
1. remove & dismantle the adjuster, remove the one-way valve inside,
2. using the steel valve seat as a guide bush, drill a pilot hole through the blank end of the casting,
3. heat the casting to 250 C so you can push the valve seat out (by putting a drift or similar down the hole you just drilled),
4. drill out the pilot hole in the end of the casting and tap it M6x1.0. File or sand the end of the casting (the area around the hole) flat enough for a sealing washer to seal against.
5. use high temp cyanoacrlyate (eg Permabond 820) to glue a 6mm flange nut where the valve seat used to be. The threads had to be synched to the thread on the end of the casting. Also, before doing so I drilled a 1.5mm hole through the nut so oil could get from the back of the adjuster through the nut to pressurize the plunger chamber. Note that the plunger has to fit over the nut to retract fully. An 8mm a/f nut does the trick, but you have to make sure its properly centred in the chamber.
6. make a centering washer so the existing spring sits central on top of the flange nut and not bind on the plunger. (The spring used to be centralised by the one way valve),
7. use a 75mm long bolt (threaded full length) as the adjuster, and put a locknut, steel washer, and sealing washer on it (to seal between the end of the casting and the locknut, which clamps down on the end of the casting. (I used leather as I didn't have rubber available at the time -seems to work!) Bolt must turn easily - it needs to be like that so you can feel when it contacts the inside back of the plunger.
8. throw it together, adjust it carefully (lots of advice on that already) and bingo, no fuggin CCT noise, and LOTS less vibration at 5000rpm. Wunderbar!
If I get time tomorrow will post a picture. [Now attached]
G
Last edited by Gearloose; 03-13-2010 at 02:54 AM. Reason: Amended step 4 to include filing flat for seal, add photo, add more about removing valve seat
#9
03-18-2009, 07:00 AM
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#10
03-19-2009, 10:24 AM
Have posted pic above.
Jacked600 asked if I just remove the tensioner plain and simple and reinstall it or did Iremove the valve cover, set the timing and all that jazz then remove the tensioner and install a new one?
Answer: just removed the tensioner. No need to bother about valve cover/timing.
G
Jacked600 asked if I just remove the tensioner plain and simple and reinstall it or did Iremove the valve cover, set the timing and all that jazz then remove the tensioner and install a new one?
Answer: just removed the tensioner. No need to bother about valve cover/timing.
G