Idle screw adjustment
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,177
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From: Alabama
Hey there and welcome. For clarity, when you say idle adjust screw, are you meaning the **** on the left side of the bike? If so, it really doesn't play a role in the bike idling properly. It simple sets the bike to the RPM of your choosing. Normally that is 1,200 +/- 100.
A word of warning, that know doesn't have a stop on it. If you turn it too many times counterclockwise, you will unscrew it and the spring and washer will land somewhere in the crevices of your engine casing. From a full clockwise seated position, the **** will turn approximately 11 full turns counterclockwise before it unseats. If, when adjusting this ****, the engine RPM doesn't change at all, then it could be that it's already been turned too many times. You will have fun times ahead looking for the spring and washer.
If you are asking about a rough idle or something along those lines, you have an issue somewhere else.
A word of warning, that know doesn't have a stop on it. If you turn it too many times counterclockwise, you will unscrew it and the spring and washer will land somewhere in the crevices of your engine casing. From a full clockwise seated position, the **** will turn approximately 11 full turns counterclockwise before it unseats. If, when adjusting this ****, the engine RPM doesn't change at all, then it could be that it's already been turned too many times. You will have fun times ahead looking for the spring and washer.
If you are asking about a rough idle or something along those lines, you have an issue somewhere else.
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Member
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 85
Likes: 9
Hey there and welcome. For clarity, when you say idle adjust screw, are you meaning the **** on the left side of the bike? If so, it really doesn't play a role in the bike idling properly. It simple sets the bike to the RPM of your choosing. Normally that is 1,200 +/- 100.
A word of warning, that know doesn't have a stop on it. If you turn it too many times counterclockwise, you will unscrew it and the spring and washer will land somewhere in the crevices of your engine casing. From a full clockwise seated position, the **** will turn approximately 11 full turns counterclockwise before it unseats. If, when adjusting this ****, the engine RPM doesn't change at all, then it could be that it's already been turned too many times. You will have fun times ahead looking for the spring and washer.
If you are asking about a rough idle or something along those lines, you have an issue somewhere else.
A word of warning, that know doesn't have a stop on it. If you turn it too many times counterclockwise, you will unscrew it and the spring and washer will land somewhere in the crevices of your engine casing. From a full clockwise seated position, the **** will turn approximately 11 full turns counterclockwise before it unseats. If, when adjusting this ****, the engine RPM doesn't change at all, then it could be that it's already been turned too many times. You will have fun times ahead looking for the spring and washer.
If you are asking about a rough idle or something along those lines, you have an issue somewhere else.
Super Moderator
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,177
Likes: 404
From: Alabama
It sounds like you are talking about the pilot screw on each carb? If so, that varies from generation to generation. But for yours I think it's 1.5 full turns out. Be careful when you screw them in to get them fully seated. They just need to touch bottom. If you put too much pressure on them, the tip of the needle will break off and you'll be out of luck.
When it comes to bench syncing, you are adjusting the tension springs that are in between the carbs. You will want to take an object, I use a sewing needle, and place it in the carb throat. You want to adjust the adjustment screw until the butterfly valve just touches the needle. Move on to the next carb until they are all the same. You don't have to use a needle. Some people use guitar strings, small gauges, or small nails.
The actual distance between the butterfly valve and carb throat doesn't really matter at this point. What matters is all 4 carbs are the same with that distance.
It is important to note that after you get the carbs back on the bike a vacuum sync will be needed to get it dialed in.
When it comes to bench syncing, you are adjusting the tension springs that are in between the carbs. You will want to take an object, I use a sewing needle, and place it in the carb throat. You want to adjust the adjustment screw until the butterfly valve just touches the needle. Move on to the next carb until they are all the same. You don't have to use a needle. Some people use guitar strings, small gauges, or small nails.
The actual distance between the butterfly valve and carb throat doesn't really matter at this point. What matters is all 4 carbs are the same with that distance.
It is important to note that after you get the carbs back on the bike a vacuum sync will be needed to get it dialed in.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 85
Likes: 9
It sounds like you are talking about the pilot screw on each carb? If so, that varies from generation to generation. But for yours I think it's 1.5 full turns out. Be careful when you screw them in to get them fully seated. They just need to touch bottom. If you put too much pressure on them, the tip of the needle will break off and you'll be out of luck.
When it comes to bench syncing, you are adjusting the tension springs that are in between the carbs. You will want to take an object, I use a sewing needle, and place it in the carb throat. You want to adjust the adjustment screw until the butterfly valve just touches the needle. Move on to the next carb until they are all the same. You don't have to use a needle. Some people use guitar strings, small gauges, or small nails.
The actual distance between the butterfly valve and carb throat doesn't really matter at this point. What matters is all 4 carbs are the same with that distance.
It is important to note that after you get the carbs back on the bike a vacuum sync will be needed to get it dialed in.
When it comes to bench syncing, you are adjusting the tension springs that are in between the carbs. You will want to take an object, I use a sewing needle, and place it in the carb throat. You want to adjust the adjustment screw until the butterfly valve just touches the needle. Move on to the next carb until they are all the same. You don't have to use a needle. Some people use guitar strings, small gauges, or small nails.
The actual distance between the butterfly valve and carb throat doesn't really matter at this point. What matters is all 4 carbs are the same with that distance.
It is important to note that after you get the carbs back on the bike a vacuum sync will be needed to get it dialed in.
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