Well i decided since it was a nice day to clean the carbs out the once i got into it the carbs were beautiful didnt needed cleaned. So i was stumped about why the bike was missing and spitting and running like ****. I noticed that i only had one pilot spring(not the 3 bolt and spring combos at the top but only 1 for the bottom i went to my local parts store that sells springs and i bought 1 big one. cut 2 to a little longer than the original spring threw them in there set everything up and went back at it took the bike for a ride. def rides better but i came up to a stop and the idle would just hang at 4-5k no matter if i toyed with the adjustment or not when i threw on the choke it would be even worse. could it be the springs are to tall causing cylinder 1&4 to be sticking open since they work at a downward angle and when there is to much spring presssure it would cause it to stick open on those 2 cylinders or what else does everyone thing. if i blip the throttle the idle does not go down

 

You synch the carbs yet? And hows that exhaust treating ya?

 

some updates

first off the bike still runs like poop. i have had the carbs on and off 5x times now reset the pilot needles and the synch screws. 2 of my cylinders arnt getting hot which means they arnt firing. cyl 1 no matter what you set the pilot needles to it wont get hot so i pulled the plug and sure enough no spark what so ever. cyl 2 is getting some spark but not alot. cyl 3 fine and cyl 4 fine. so i am rolling out the coils when i was checking spark i was firing over cyl 2 and checking spark i waitied for a bit tried to do it again i didnt get any spark and the starter was slow on turning over til it just wouldnt turn on the bike any more. could my problem be that i have a bad regulator/rectifier causing the ignition to not be as strong or could it be the pulsors and or cdi box

 

check battery voltage across the terminal to make sure that it is charging. if charging system is okay, then battery may be going downhill. reg/rec keeps charging system from overloading battery by dumping excess juice as heat. if battery okay, then look at cdi located on right subframe rail. check continuity and resistance. i had same issue 3 weeks ago, weak or no spark, turned out to be battery.

 

You said youcleaned the carbs?

To properly clean the carbs, you need to disassemble the set completly, soak each carb in cleaner and spray the carbwith compressed air, each port and passage.

It sounds like you missed several items on the cleaning.

The jets need to be removed and cleaned.

The float and needle valve needs to come out of each carb, behind the needle valve seat is a metal screen / filter that needs to be removed and cleaned.

The air speed needle spring / O Ring needs to come out and those passages need to be cleaned.

I good carb cleaning takes me a full day to break down the bike / clean the carbs and put everything back together and get the bike ready to sync.

If you can get the carbs off, take them to a good M/C shop and have them cleaned by someone who knows what to do.

Put the carbs back on the bike, install the aluminum air box plate to the carbs and trailer the bike to a M/C shop and have the carbs synced.

And then put the bike back together.

 

first off the battery is brand new i bought it 5/13/07 only road the bike for about 350-400 miles. right now the battery is showing 13.2 without the bike running. i havnt tested it with the bike running. the carbs were completely disassembled cleaned floats taken out the whole 9 yards i even took out the pilot screws cleaned in there sprayed cleaner thru there and went about it. they were also cleaned when i bought the bike.