I think you need a bigger mallet.

 

That is how a garage is supposed to look. Where can I find that lift for the rear wheel; looks useful?

 

Bought that on eBay, Venom Wheel Lift 48.99
I bought the paddle end type so I could use it on any bike without having to install spools. The cool kids have spools on their swing arms, and the $170 Pit Bull wheel lifts.

 

Took a short test ride, no fairings and no mirrors…oops. Ran well but the ride was too short to really judge.
Short because the PO put the clutch cover on without a gasket (WTF???) so it drips.
The PO also gutted the slip-on so it's just too damn loud.
I missed 2nd on the intense 0 to 100 test. I hope it's not slipping out.
Shift point is 11,000 RPM. I had it up to 12,000 with power still climbing.
Nothing below 8,000 just like, and feels just like a 550cc. Flat power slope, no torque. 0 to 12,000 is a LONG power slope.
My other bikes are a 1982 Suzuki GS1100G, and a much re-engineered 1990 Suzuki GSX750F Katana, with a 92 GSXR 1127 engine.
Intense torque bikes, very different from a 600cc 400 Lb bike.

 

Nice. Sounds like good progress. I am going to take my son's 600 out for a ride tomorrow to see how the used carb rack runs for a more than just around the block. Hope it holds up ok so I can get the basics in the books and see if he wants to tune it to run faster.

 

Well my ride was enlightening too. After my son had issues restarting at a gas station I had decided to install a volt meter in the bike. Today my ride started out pretty good; lots of power and the engine was pretty smooth (not perfect, but not bad for an '87 with a used carb that I haven't tuned to the bike yet). Two minutes in I started to feel some hesitation pulling out of lower RPM, followed by a backfire in the same condition. When I got to the next stop light, my little volt meter showed 10.4 volts ... ouch. U-TURN and back to the garage. When I get it wound up; it sounds pretty good; but the minute the RPM drops and I have to accelerate again, it is bad as the battery starts to die. So this seems to indicate it does charge, but the charge isn't really helping the battery. Put the bike back on the battery tender and the battery starts to recover again. So I was going to swap the regulator (just cause I am sold on the MOSFET conversion to get into the 2000's), but I would not expect a battery to go tilt after 2-3 minutes of riding even if the charging system was completely disabled. Do you guys agree? Advance auto tested this battery and claimed it was ok; but this doesn't seem ok to me. At this point I believe the intermittent nature of my problem has been due to low voltage. I start it up and go for a ride around the lake; no problem. My son starts it up and sits and idles for 5 minutes and practices shifting up from a stop; and BOOM, the bike starts to lose it. It all makes sense.

 

Well bummer, the stator is not generating. Tested bad, R&R tested good.
Will have to wait for that to get here.

 

My plan is to replace the battery and the RR with the MOSFET unit I have seen as a retrofit. All of these parts with an unknown history just make it tough to get things back to 100%. If I still have issues then I will have to look into the stator again, but it passed the tests in the shop manual and I can clearly see a voltage gain when I rev up the engine so I have to believe it is working. Good luck with your stator swap.

 

Thanks!
Decided to buy a salvaged OEM stator from ebay. I've been curious about these since the Ricks stator I put in my GS1100G failed sooner than expected.
It ain't new but they look better made than aftermarket. I can risk $40 to find out.

ebay stator…

 

Aircraft stripper, really works fast!
So many dents, looks like every newbee who owned this bike dropped it on the right side__meh