hello there, just have some general questions to ask. So i was bleeding the front brakes yesterday the old way of squeezing the levera nd opening the bleeder screw problem was i got carried away for a moment and sucked up a bubble from the reserve tank into the lines. Started all over and went through half a bottle of brake fluid to try and get rid of the bubbles. Can anyone tell me approx how much distance should the front lever be squeezed until you cant squeeze it any more on a bike that has had the brakes bled properly without any mishaps so i could compare and if have to go grab more fluid to start another bleed and try to rid myself of bubbles.
Also i have a leak in the exhause right where the thicker part of the muffler starts. Theres a hairline crack that leaks unburned oil or something coming out of the engine and i was wondering if anyone had that before and how did they fix it? I'm taking the carbs of tonight for a good cleaning so the last question was is it manditory to do a carb sync after i'm done cleaning the carbs. Oh i forgot one thing, what socket do you use for the spark plugs. I bought some NKJ Iridiums and got a deep socket that fits perfectly around them, problem was tryed to go in but the darn thing gets stuck in the head. There's so little clearance there that a regular deep socket won't go in. Anyone have any tricks. Same thing with going in for a compression check. How do you fit the hose to go in there theres such little space.

 

question 1 - brakes

bleed the brakes until all the air is gone and the lever action is hard. if you have soft or spongy feeling action, then you still have air left in the system. use a soft mallet to gently tap on the caliper and reservoir to dislodge any air bubbles in the system.

question 2 - hairline exhaust crack

you could remove and a) take to welder, b) use high temp JB weld, or c) find replacement set on ebay.

question 3 - carb sync

yes, you have to do a carb sync once you take it apart.

question 4 - spark plug removal

easiest way is to unbolt the radiator from the frame. you don't have to drain it or anything, just unbolt and flip up. as long as you get the plug loosened, you can use a slim magnet to pull it out or a hose to slip over the ceramic as others have done.

question 5 - compression test

same as above. having the radiator unbolted will give you more wiggle room.

 

the thing is though for the spark plug i can't get my socket to fit inside so i can loosen it/ tighten it later when i put a new one in. is there a special socket i have to get thats specialized for nkg sparkplugs or in general to fit inside the engine head to remove the sparkplug because i know mine is way too large

 

I had the same problem when i changed my plugs. my work around was to get out the nifty little tool kit that comes with the bike and use the plug wrench that comes in the kit. it fits the NGK Irridum plugs i know this because i use them and the plug wrench is a thinner walled socket type and it fits right in

 

You only really have to do carb sync if you take the carbs out of the assembly. If you keep all 4 in the bracket while cleaning you won't have to sync.

But, if you have the time and the tool, it's always a good thing to do.

 

I was wondering if i should because i didn't plan on going anywhere near the mixture screws and following the how to guide for cleaning carbs so yay for the thought of not having to do a sync just yet. i don't have the tool and don't have the money at the moment to fork over 100+ for it otherwise i'd love to sync em. i think tonight ill go in and take em off for cleaning.