Hi guys,

I’ve searched and there are similar but no real specific posts on the forum for this issue. Hence the post .

Just spent the afternoon taking apart and rebuilding the forks on my sad state 2000 cbr600f4.

I rebuilt the forks with new bushings, seals and oil.
Everything went well for the first fork, but like a fool I never wound out the rebound adjuster screw to full soft on the second fork nor took note of settings below the cap.

During reassembly, the fork cap never hit a “stop” point when being wound onto the damper thread (not even slight) and wound to the locknut below.
The rebound screw on the fork cap when adjusted, now also turns the damper in sits in, failing to turn itself past 1 screw rotation without also turning the damper.
I ran out of light and time to get it stripped and reassembled today (my workshed is very cavemanish, but needs must ).
I am wondering if someone has encountered this issue before and can tell me if it is fixable or will require a new damper rod?

I bought this bike to learn how to strip, rebuild and gain knowledge on the function of various parts so having to replace some parts here and there due to my error is part and parcel of it all.

I have a Haynes service manual but even this can’t prevent me from avoidable errors like this .I know this to be my own fault more so than the manual. Though the small black and white pictures are shocking )
(I never do anything beyond standard servicing on my precious 954).

If there is a way of returning the fork to a default factory setting via the adjuster screw/ Cap screw depth on damper rod thread I’d love to hear it

thanks in advance for any replies!

 

Attached below is a guide that I found on 600RR that goes a ways to fixing the issue. Hope it helps anyone.
My rebound adjuster screw issue was tied to a preload adjuster also being very stuck to the fork cap. This requires a disassembly of Fork cap from the tube, the Damper from cartridge (all adjusters backed out to full soft prior) and some tough love with a wrench in fork cap nut , and another on the preload bar sticking up through the cap. Careful not to put any pressure on the damper rod as you do this.
preload and rebound now adjustable with ease.