i wouldnt call the new ones fake fakes, more an upgrade. Helpful thread, and i only registered here to lend a hand with updated info

The NEW model (non ss fake) has some subtle changes and upgrades over the SS

Firstly, theres no selection of number of cylinders: Since bikes dont have a distributer system, this makes much more sense and makes installation easier. its now a simple connection to impulse source (ECU, Coil, or Pickup pulser) and at 100Hz signal reads 6000RPM as it should. There is a setting menu (hold left button while turn on key) where you can set it as E / C This changes how the device detects the incoming signal as either a positive wave, or a negative wave pulse from the source. so if RPM doesnt work, change this setting to the other one.

On the startup setting menu: the large number being the number of magnets for the speedo sensor to detect for one rotation of the wheel.

On the same setting menu is the wheel circumference measurement Best and easiest way to calibrate this : take a ride out with a GPS device that shows speed, hold a steady speed for a distance and remember the real speed on GPS and apparent speed on speedo. Pull over and stop. Go into the menu and read off the circumference number into a calculator. Divide that number by the speed the speedo was displaying, then times that result by the real speed on the GPS. The resultant number is the new accurate wheel size. Speedo should now be accurate.

Wiring is as follows:
Green - GND
Red - Memory function : Requires Permanent +12v
Black - Switched +12v from IGN
Blue - Main beam indicator : requires a +12v to illuminate
Light Blue - Right Indicator : requires a +12v to illuminate
Orange - Left Indicator : requires a +12v to illuminate
Red/Green- Neutral indicator : Requires a GND to illuminate
Pink - EFI warning light : Requires a GND to illuminate
Blue/White- RPM signal
Yellow - Fuel gauge : Resistance to GND : 0-100 ohm : 0 = full
Green/Blue- Water Temp: Resistance to GND : 0-100 ohm :

 

Looks like my post was cut short. When i get to my notes ill add the rest here

 

CONTINUED:

Green/Blue- Water Temp: Resistance to GND : 0-100 ohm : 100 OHM = COLD, 16 OHM OR LOWER lights dash

White - +5v supply to supplied hall sensor.. maybe useful for USB charging
Brown/Black - Speed sensor return : Unsure at this point if this will work with OEM 12v hall sensors, but i do know that the speedo registers perfectly if this connection is pulsed to GND : this means you could use the much smaller magnetic reed switches used by bicycle computers. Sigma sport speedos are good for 190+ MPH, so this is a viable option connect one side of reed switch to GND and the other to this wire

ANY other wires not mentioned are Gear indication wires and are not usually usefull, but if you wish to use them (Gear 5 could be a "S" for sidestand) then they will show on dash when switched to GND

 

Sounds like the E/C setting is the one that is throwing off users of the improved tach. Thanks very much for sharing that apparently elusive information. It's not clear if you are a distributor who might have more technical info or a sharp customer who sorted this out, but I'll ask these questions anyway -

does the impulse voltage magnitude (not polarity) need to be within a certain range? IIRC there was an impulse voltage limit (maybe 28V? can't remember) specified when I installed an SS182. The tach pulse on my CBR has spikes bigger than that at higher rpm, that seemed to fool the tach until I cleaned them up with a filter.

If taking the pulse from the coil rather than the tach output, how does this system accommodate wasted spark ignition systems, which fire the spark plug twice on each revolution? Won't it tell me the motor is turning 6K rpm when it is really turning 3k? I'll suggest that anyone putting this in an older CBR use the tach signal rather than a coil pulse.

 

Just a customer frustrated with lack of sales support and Chinglish destructions. I have multimeter and sillyscope and not afraid to stick me probes in!

the rough translated gibberish is actually clear on this: 12v Square wave signal. if you have noisy signal, some filtering may be required, but you seem to have that in hand already

i think you mean pickup.. only situation i could think this would happen would be a twin with a 180' crank.. surely in that case most would have separate HTcoils, in which case take the signal off the input to one of them. in the rare situation that they dont (cant think of a single bike that would) then the only option is to incorporate a frequency divider / FLIP FLOP circuit to half the signal.
i believe there is some ready made IC's that will do this. This link should help: Frequency Division using Divide-by-2 Toggle Flip-flops


Always the recommended starting point i would say

 

Do any of you guys actually have the menus mapped out? On mine the bottom row is circumference. I'm pretty sure the top left is # of cylinders. The "1", the "E", and the big "0" are a mystery.

The "1" is either "1" or "5".

The "E" is either "E" or "C".

The "0" started as a "3". It lets me cycle down to "0", but not back up.

 

E= EFI
C= Carbs
Read previous posts.
there is a way to reset the device by powering up while holding some button(s), but i dont remember which.

 

I just bought the same Koso replica (ss182).
I there any way that i can make 75000 km on the speedometer ?

My bike has 75000 and it will be funny to start from 0.

Thanks in advance.


EDIT:
One interesting thing, menus were different before i connect RPM wire.
Before i could press B button to switch from hours to minutes and after i wired up RPM, now i need to do long press A button to switch from hours to minutes.
And in that moment RPM goes to 3000 i think. Anyone have that?

I guess i have new SS182.(at least it say SS182 on the back of the speedometer )

 

Hello,

I've been working in a project to get data from games (like ProjectCars and iRacing) from PC and send it to Arduino.

The Arduino send it to a real Dashboard.

I successfully implemented a version displayed in this video:

But this tachometer only displays RPM... and I want more...

I looked into several sites and ss182 seems to be the best.

I believe I could easily light the engine, oil and other lights on the left side of the ss182.

Questions:

1) Any idea if the same code that I'm using for Arduino sinal, would work to set the RPM on the ss182?
2) Any idea how to send the speed to the ss182 throw Arduino?
3) Any idea if I could add gear 7 and 8? Some racing cars have it

Thank you very much guys, you did an impressive job here...

Another alternative that I'm thinking is completely remove the LCD of the ss182 and replace by another one controlled by Arduino like

not sure if would fit, but anyways... would be an interesting challenge...

Thank you again.

 

This is the factory that makes SS182.
Link is below.
If i found schematics i will send it here.

Chongqing Sansan Electric Appliance Co., Ltd

Regards,
Alen