Hi

I am doing some work for a friend on his 600CBR - first I had to get all the signal lights running along with an aftermarket headlight. The wiring harness was a mess, but I traced the lines + used the wiring diagram.

I have all signal lights working now, as well as the headlight (high/low) and the horn.

When he first got the bike, he had to jump start it, b/c the battery was weak. I'm currently using the battery from my own bike.

When we went to start the bike this evening - he wouldn't start. The starter would turn over fine, but there was no kick.

I checked the wires going to the fuel pump, the black, black-blue and yellow-blue and to me the yellow blue just goes to the dash (which he doesn't have mounted, the connector is just there tied away). I traced the black wire and the black blue wire from the fusebox through the harness.

There is a white plug that has the black and the black blue with a green(ground) - nothing attached to it. He claims the volage regulator was replaced at some point and that's why it isn't used.

I then went to the fuel pump and checked the black-blue wire at the connector - no power. Then I went to the fuel pump cutoff switch - and it has 3 wires - the black blue, black, and green. Power goes into the black wire, but nothing comes out of the black-blue wire, which is the one going to the fuel pump.

So I skipped over the regulator/switch and wired it directly to a black/blue wire that had power, and to a ground. Then, when you would turn on the bike, the fuel pump was noisy, hard to tell if it was working. After a while, even tho it was still connected, the fuel pump stopped.

After we removed the tank again, I removed the fuel pump - there was gas going into the pipe to the carbs from the fuel pump, and what was left from the filter on the other side. The fuel pump itself had gas into it, and it poured out of both connectors.

However, she still isn't getting gas. He tried jump starting it wtithout the airbox - did not work. Then he tried jumpstarting it with the airbox in, still would not work. The starter turns over fine, yet the bike won't kick in at all.

I read that you can bypass the pump all together, however if the pump was working, then stopped (without the regulator/switch that is) - I'm wondering -is it a bad regulator? Did I kill the fuel pump by hooking it up straight? (I mean when you would turn on the key you could hear it, but then once the fuel filter filled up a tad more it stopped - now it won't run either way, but that maybe because it has enough gas?).

Can it be anything else. He's saying it's something that I did to the wiring - if the lights all work, and the starter is turning over fine, i doubt that.

going into the regulator - the black wire has power. The black-blue one does not. The connector going to the fuel pump has no power on the black-blue line at all which suggests to me that the regulator may not be working - or it already had adequate fuel.

Running it straight bought the pump to life, but it died shortely after - however there was gas on both lines from the pump (the one going in after the filter, and the other going from the pump to the carbs).

Any ideas appreciated. Is there any way I can test if the regulator is working? And is there a way I can test to see if the fuel pump is working.

Before I started with the electrical he had to jump-start the bike. Now jumpstarting won't work. I never fooled with any of the wires going to the plugs and whatnot. All the fueses check out. The starter sounds perfect - just nothing from that point beyond.

Any help appreciated - I'm gonna be back at it tomorrow, so any tips

 

No advice :/ Anyway I'm going in to pick up a multimeter to make sure on a few things. The bike turns over fine, yet there is no power going into the CDI (as far as I can tell) or out. Even if the CDI was shot, there should be a live wire going in correct?

Both coils have no power going to them.

Does the pulse generator have anything to do with the power going to the CDI?

Oh yeah, absolutely no spark at all, hence why i stopped talking at the coils.

 

According to the wiring diagram I'm looking at the power lead runs into one coil first, and then into the spark unit, then back out to the other coil. The pulse generators do not supply any power to the spark unit.

Check for power at the coil positive terminals, should be a black/white wire, with the key on and the stop switch in 'run'. If no power at the coils check your engine stop switch and ignition switch to be sure they are working. The power to the spark unit comes from the battery through the 30A main fuse, then through the ignition switch, through a 10A sub fuse probably on the left upper cowling, then through the stop switch, and finally to the coil. If any of those fuses or switches are not working you will not get power to the coils or spark unit.

The service manual is available to download in the main 600f page & has all the troubleshooting info in chapter 18 for the ignition system if that helps you.

 

Hey man I've been having the no spark at all issue myself. And like you the starter was turning.

I have just had some success by following the honda service manual available free as a pdf on this site recommended to me by tahoerider. The last sections of the manual go through the electrical system. It's great and shows where everything is, how its connected and how to troubleshoot and test.

I have spark now on plugs 1,3 and 4 (haven't tried 2 yet) after cleaning the starter button and clutch switches!

I'd recommend using the service manual and going through it carefully. A bad connection at somewhere silly on the ignition circuit can easily make the bike dead as I've had to find out.

 

I have a multimeter now, I just gotta figure out how to use it!

See the engine stop switch is completely gone. They have jerry-rigged another starter button to start the bike. What I can do is take pictures of the set up this evening to give you guys a better idea of what's going on.

I'm trying to figure out why jump starting it will not work however. Until yesterday, I never touched anything to do with that part of the system. I have checked all the fuses in the rectangle box. I have a 10amp fuse (that we blew a few times) into a socket with two yellow wires plugged in.

You're telling me there's a 30amp fuse on the other side of this 10 amp? So far I haven't came across any of those. :/

 

Hi the 30 amp fuse is the main one and is found inside the terminal block at the top of the solenoid if you have a stock solenoid and wiring set up. If you look on ebay for an example of the solenoid, the fuse is under/inside the pink coloured connector block.

When you're learning about the multimeter just remember to double check the polarity all the time i.e. + to + and - to -. When checking for resistance start with the biggest ohms scale and work down. Just read through the instructions and go slow at first.

All the best

 

Here are some pics I've taken..it's ugly I know.

Facebook, Copy/Paste the link, ignore the Vin link.

Photobucket, might work better for you folks, since my security settings on FB are like fort knox.

Read my notes to each picture. To me I think I have a bad ground or short somewhere. I tested the coils and they check in at 03.3 and 03.4 ohms. The fuses all zero out and form the connection.

When I try to test the ground wire from the CDI to the main ground of the bike I get nothing. Thats why I'm thinking its a bad ground or short. If the coils are fine by my numbers, then looking beyond that to the wires and plugs is senseless for now.

I need power to the coils first.

Where would you folks suggest I look next?

BTW, I tested the wiring stuff I did to the lights and everything checks out great there for voltage. It's what I didn't touch now that's suddenly dead. Maybe I shook up something, pulled something loose. I just really need a good idea of how to start tracing this back.

I think I have a fair handle on the multimeter at the moment, for the basics.

 

I misread the wiring diagram slightly before.. didn't see the splice on the power wire. Both coil positive terminals and the power to the spark unit are shared by the same power source. The black/white wire to each coil should have battery voltage with the key on. The black/white wire at the spark unit also should have the same. The ground for the spark unit is the solid green wire.

The spark unit is not responsible for supplying power to the coils. It only controls the negative side of the coil to make it fire the spark. If you don't have power to the coils or the spark unit you'll have to trace it back through the start switch wiring first. Check for power at the coils & spark unit with the multimeter with the negative lead hooked up to the battery ground terminal. To check the ground for the spark unit you can either test continuity between the green wire and the battery ground, or connect the positive lead to the battery positive terminal and the negative lead to the ground wire and you should see battery voltage if the ground is good.

Check those things out first and post back with what you find. If you download the service manual there is a wiring diagram that will help you trace the wires back to the battery in chapter 18.

 

She's alive! I gather when i started re-wiring it the correct way, the black/white cable from the start switch was wired in somewhere else. I added it back to the starter cables I had and she booted!

I just spent the afternoon making sure stuff all had good connections and whatnot. Right now I'm sorting out the wiring harness to make it fit better for the airbox.

From the looks of things, the idle will need to be adjusted, since you need to have the choke on for it to stay idling, but that's minor details. Hopefully its nothing more than the idle screw. But the behavior is more or less idle, nothing else. Spark is fine, etc.

Thanks for the tips guys my buddy is all happy right now Now he just gotta get her registered for the road!

 

FYI, I own a Honda NX 250 enduro - but I never had this many wiring issues with mine - same year however, so I had an idea of where to start.

I'd never be able to move around a CBR - I'm a gal, with absolutely no upper body strength, so I have to stick with the smaller models - this one looks lower than most CBRs however, I may give it a try!