Carburetor reassembly questions
Senior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,988
Likes: 439
From: Mesa, AZ
Yes, jig would help.
I find it easiest to hold body of carb in upright position so float and float-valve can operate naturally. Then gently raise float and squirt water into fuel-rail with small squirt-bottle. Measure height where it stops letting water through. This is assuming float-valves and seat aren't worn and can actually stop flow. Look at both with magnifying glass and if seat doesn't have flat bevel and valve tip doesn't have flat triangular profile, they'll most likely need replacing. Seat can be lapped to match new valves.
Typically top of float-level is even with top of float-bowl. Verify when measuring with bowl off.
This one is obviously too high:
These 2 are close enough to call good.
I find it easiest to hold body of carb in upright position so float and float-valve can operate naturally. Then gently raise float and squirt water into fuel-rail with small squirt-bottle. Measure height where it stops letting water through. This is assuming float-valves and seat aren't worn and can actually stop flow. Look at both with magnifying glass and if seat doesn't have flat bevel and valve tip doesn't have flat triangular profile, they'll most likely need replacing. Seat can be lapped to match new valves.
Typically top of float-level is even with top of float-bowl. Verify when measuring with bowl off.
This one is obviously too high:
These 2 are close enough to call good.
Last edited by dannoxyz; Aug 2, 2022 at 08:31 PM.
Member
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 32
Likes: 10
From: NJ
This weekend I tried to adjust the float heights. I found it maddeningly difficult. It’s very hard to tell when the float valve is “lightly” seated. I got so frustrated I considered building a jig to incrementally raise one side of the carb so that I could free myself from trying to tilt it while going blind trying to see where the float valve is. Anybody have any hints? It seems so simple in the videos !!!
Member
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 32
Likes: 10
From: NJ
Yes, jig would help.
I find it easiest to hold body of carb in upright position so float and float-valve can operate naturally. Then gently raise float and squirt water into fuel-rail with small squirt-bottle. Measure height where it stops letting water through. This is assuming float-valves and seat aren't worn and can actually stop flow. Look at both with magnifying glass and if seat doesn't have flat bevel and valve tip doesn't have flat triangular profile, they'll most likely need replacing. Seat can be lapped to match new valves.
Typically top of float-level is even with top of float-bowl. Verify when measuring with bowl off.
This one is obviously too high:
These 2 are close enough to call good.
I find it easiest to hold body of carb in upright position so float and float-valve can operate naturally. Then gently raise float and squirt water into fuel-rail with small squirt-bottle. Measure height where it stops letting water through. This is assuming float-valves and seat aren't worn and can actually stop flow. Look at both with magnifying glass and if seat doesn't have flat bevel and valve tip doesn't have flat triangular profile, they'll most likely need replacing. Seat can be lapped to match new valves.
Typically top of float-level is even with top of float-bowl. Verify when measuring with bowl off.
This one is obviously too high:
These 2 are close enough to call good.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,988
Likes: 439
From: Mesa, AZ
Yes, 2-part process. Adjust 1st according to Honda manual. Then final wet-test to confirm 1st procedure. Often when things are measured dry, due to slight play and flexing of float-to-valve interface, float-level in actual use is different. If 2nd test shows too much discrepancy, I re-do 1st step and re-adjust.
It's like aiming headlights by measuring angle of front-face, with those little tabs and levels and stuff. Final test is still to shine light onto wall. Then re-adjust if needed,
It's like aiming headlights by measuring angle of front-face, with those little tabs and levels and stuff. Final test is still to shine light onto wall. Then re-adjust if needed,
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 137
Likes: 15
From: Toronto, Canada
Thank you @dannoxyz and @Mr Lee . I’m being optimistic (perhaps foolishly so 
), and if I can get this part right, am looking forward to doing a sync with vacuum gauges or the like.
Where would I hook up a synchronization tool up ? I couldn’t see anything downstream of the carbs and nothing called out in the parts diagrams or the service manual.
), and if I can get this part right, am looking forward to doing a sync with vacuum gauges or the like.Where would I hook up a synchronization tool up ? I couldn’t see anything downstream of the carbs and nothing called out in the parts diagrams or the service manual.
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,304
Likes: 512
From: South Florida, USA
There are small threaded holes on the sides of the intake manifold. Depending on the model, some have a small brass threaded tube with a rubber cap on it. Some just have a screw into it. Some bikes that have vacuum activated petcocks use the #1 cylinder for providing that vacuum source.
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