Thanks everyone. Yes, the bike sounds completely different. The flutter I was sensing is now gone when just revving it up from idle and it is obvious to me now that it was not running on all four cylinders (now that I can hear the difference). When it stops raining I will go test it and see how it feels pulling up hills; where I was getting a ton of flutter and serious lack of power. I have also noticed that the bike now idles at low RPM where it would die before at idle speeds below 1200 (and yes, I know know 1200 is the spec idle speed, but a well tuned engine will not die below the ideal idle speed). The carb linkage between 1 and 2 carbs and 3 and 4 carbs are in tact. The spark plug wire on cylinder 2 was also intermittently reading OPEN due to rusty resister and spring internal in the boot. So it might have been on ONE cylinder at times

 

Will something like this work for carb sync after I do a bench sync? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Vacuum...5.c10#viTabs_0

 

or this one on amazon, looks pretty much the same.

 

My current symptom after fixing the missing spring is some sporadic 'pings' as well as a occasional exhaust backfire. So this leads me to be believe I have a cylinder getting too little gas and a cylinder getting too much gas. No issues with bike staying running (idling) or needing the choke (in fact it needs to have the choke disengaged quickly or it will run way too quick). Also note that I turned the mixture screws to 2 1/4 and then backed them all out 1/2 turn. They were at 3 turns in before I replaced the jets and cleaned the float, except one that was a little more than 3 1/4 (second cylinder from left).

 

The only thing is the tubing looks a little short. Could be the picture though.
My set has tubing around 3ft long. I wouldn't want anything shorter.

 

Ok thanks. I was more worried about the ports as I could probably always get some longer tubing. Thanks again for your advice.

 

tubing is 750mm; so just under 2.5 feet.

 

The #1 cylinder is the only one that requires you to screw in an adapter. The other three have nipples unto which you simply slide the tubes.

The length should be fine.

 

I completed the bench sync, re-installed the carbs and have the sync tool plugged into the four ports on the bike. I did find there are four screws you have to remove and install the four screw in adapters; which is what is written in the manual. The vacuum needles bounce like crazy at idle so it very difficult to tell their exact position; although they appear to bounce close to the same point. Would love to hear from someone with experience with carb sync as to the best way to get this as close as possible. FYI: the bike still seems to stumble quite a bit and flutter when revving up.

 

Is there a knurled **** on each of the gauges?
If so just barely crack them open. That will fix your bouncing needles.