just had the battery tested, surprisingly it's completely fine which means its gotta be the fuze box, i have it apart again does everything inside of it look fine? So for the test all i gotta do is measure all of the wires going in and out of the fuze box to earth?

 

Looking will pick up obvious faults but cannot show you that it works - I.e. it will prove a negative but not a positive, for that you need a multimeter.

So yes, black lead to battery negative, red lead as a flying probe to check either side of each fuse, especially fuse G which supplies the ignition.

 

with key on red wire/black wire coming from igntion to fuse box = 12
Fuse= 11.97
black wire coming out =11.97

 

So the drop is before the fuse box.

Go back to the Red / Black wire on the fuse box connector then the R/B on the ignition switch connector, then the ?Black? in the ignition switch connector then the black on the starter relay then the 30a fuse by the starter relay.

 

Red/black at ignition=12.06 key on key off = 0
solid red at ignition switch = 12.50 key off 12.10 key on
brown at ignition switch = 11.60 key on key off = 0
brown/white at ignition switch = 11.60 key on key off = 0
Im not seeing any black wire on the ignition switch, are you talking about inside the start/kill housing by chance? How do I test the 30 amp fuse while everything is connected?

 

ok i made some good progress on it, i threw in a buddies new lithuim battery and i get the full volts on thr black wire at the relay, but it still was not working and I decided to jump the black and the blue wire at the relay and when the key comes on the pump comes on for now, I tried to messaure continuity, voltage, and resistance on the relay and got nothing am I doing these tests correctly? Also, is there a way to test the yellow/blue wire at the relay to make sure it is supplying the relay with the pulses?

 

OK, so you’ve found the drop - either in the ignition switch or in the connector to it, contact cleaner should help :-)

Sorry about the colour error, I’m having to use a magnifying glass to try to read the &#&#&#& copy of the wiring diagram I have.

 

im pretty sure what it was is even though i had 2 different places test the battery there is many test that they can't do to it, like activate the magnetic coil for the fp relay. I guess after sitting a whole year the battery is no good no more.

 

Wonderful, that is good progress and strongly suggests a faulty relay and a duff battery.

Yes, but only with specialist equipment like an oscilloscope or an integrating meter. It’s more a case of replace the faulty components and see if it works.