Hello, I can't see to get my fuel pump to work yet again, opon cranking it does not come on, doing the relay voltage test according to the manual where you test the black wire to a ground it reads 11.7-11.9 instead of the full battery voltage, opon disconnecting the 9 pin red start/kill switch the voltage goes back to normal, I had this issue awhile back but I managed to fix it by spraying contact cleaner on the 9 pin connector but that won't even work anymore. According to the manual if you fail the voltage test you need to fix or repair damaged wiring, i took the harness off and opened it up and did not find any damage to the black wire or the black and white wire, I have spark on all 4 plugs so it is not a faulty cdi or generators, and running the bike on gravity feed my tach works.

 

Track back through each of the connectors testing the voltage, that will tell you which connector has the bad connection and needs attention.

 

I tracked back through all of the connections, the 9 pin start/kill, the fuse box, and the fuel pump cut relay, all read the same voltage, I cleaned all of them again and pulled the pins of the connectors out to check for corrosion and it's all fine. I took the harness apart and followed the wire to make sure it is not damaged and it is fine also.

 

The 9 pin connector handles the starter switch, the kill switch and the lighting power, if you have measures the voltage on the black and black / white wires both sides of the connector and they are the same and the voltage on the black wire is 11.2v with the connector plugged in but circa 12.8v with it unplugged, which is what I think you’re saying, then it suggests that something on the black / white wire is drawing the voltage down.

The B/W goes to the spark unit and to both coils, try disconnecting the plugs to those one at a time measuring the voltage each time - that might isolate the drain.

 

tried that, with key on and killswitch off voltages are: with black/white connectors that go the the coils unplugged = 11.9v
with just cdi unplugged = 11.9v
with both of them unplugged = 11.9v

 

So, to recap, the battery has good voltage (12.8v+), you've checked the voltage at each of the connectors and see no drop, the voltage at the 9 pin connector is 11.2v with the connector in place but battery voltage when disconnected and it's still 11.2v with the 9 pin connected but everything on the B/W wire disconnected?

If the battery voltage was also 11.2v when the 9 pin is connected I'd be asking whether the lights were on and suggesting that you have a duff battery but, if the above is all true then I'm fairy well stumped.

 

yup, battery has 12.9 volts when key is off and 12.5 with key on, so maybe a faulty battery? I just got it last year and it has minimal wear on it. When conducting the test battery voltage is 11.9 on the black wire at the fp relay, when the 9pin connector is unplugged it becomes 12.5, i noticed today that regardless of the killswitch position it is still 11.9. I still get 11.9 with all b/w connecting unplugged. I have all lights including high beam.

 

If the battery voltage is 12.5v with the switch on and, at the same time, the voltage on the black wire at the FP plug is 11.9v then you have a voltage drop somewhere along the wire, through the fuse, across one of the connectors or through the relay.

 

I cant get the battery to charge past 12.8 volts, im pretty sure it should sit at 13.5 full so I'm gonna put a fresh battery in it to see if it changes anything, if not the last thing I can think of is the fuse box, are there any tests to help me diagnose the fuse box? I had it apart and the connectors inside look good

 

As with all things electrical the multimeter is your friend. Measure the voltage from the input side to earth and measure the voltage from the output side to earth, they should both read the same and be the same as the battery voltage.