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1990 hurricane running great 3 days ago. Now WTF?

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  #11  
Old 08-10-2009 | 08:14 AM
Loganhudak's Avatar
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http://regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/


there are cheap. buy a new one.

But your bike should still have power, it will just kill the battery when its running as all that does is convert the charge from your engine to charge the battery......
 
  #12  
Old 08-10-2009 | 11:54 AM
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If your battery voltage is good and the 30A fuse is good then it must be a connector, the ignition switch or a fuse. Do you get battery voltage at the ignition switch? One other thing as stated by Mr. Logan Hudak, if your Regulator/rectifier (R/R) has gone bad( which they often do on these bikes) then you will be running on battery alone until the battery dies. It converts the 3 phase AC voltage from the stator to the 12-15 volts DC that the bike uses and also charges the battery. Try to jump start your bike with a good car battery with the car NOT RUNNING. Does the bike start? If so then your battery may be toast. Why then is the battery toast? Bad R/R? You CAN troubleshoot this. We just need more info.
 
  #13  
Old 08-10-2009 | 04:17 PM
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Why does it matter if the car is running or not?
 
  #14  
Old 08-10-2009 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Dissevered
Why does it matter if the car is running or not?
I've read here and elsewhere, it's because the charging system in a car/truck is vastly more powerful than a bike, and will seriously damage the bike if it's running. If the car is off, you're basically just hooking it to the battery alone, it could be just sitting on the ground for all it matters.
 
  #15  
Old 08-11-2009 | 03:26 AM
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I allways make sure I disconnect the leads from the battery when charging it.
 
  #16  
Old 08-11-2009 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Dissevered
Why does it matter if the car is running or not?
Alternator in a car is throwing ~30A back at the battery while it's running, and a bike battery can only handle 6A max. You'll literally melt the battery.
 
  #17  
Old 08-12-2009 | 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by johnnyx
Alternator in a car is throwing ~30A back at the battery while it's running, and a bike battery can only handle 6A max. You'll literally melt the battery.
Yes, melt battery bad.
 
  #18  
Old 08-12-2009 | 01:00 PM
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I was always told that it will only draw as many amps as it needs. I think voltage may matter, but I thought amps didn't. I know plenty of people who jumped a bike off a running car. Maybe they got lucky... Dunno, I will look into it though.
 
  #19  
Old 08-12-2009 | 02:04 PM
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Here ya go, tech talk. My step dad is an electrical engineer.


"Amps is current and only the amount required for the load will flow for
a given voltage (V = IR).
Basically the battery will produce a lot more current than the
alternator, since it takes 100s of amps
to start the car - so the amps comment isn't correct. To charge the 12V
battery, the alternator will
Put out (while the car is running) a higher voltage, like 13.5-14V to
charge the battery, that's why
there is a regulator, to regulate the voltage. As long as your bike
uses a 12V battery like a car, it
would be fine."
 
  #20  
Old 08-13-2009 | 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Dissevered
Here ya go, tech talk. My step dad is an electrical engineer.


"Amps is current and only the amount required for the load will flow for
a given voltage (V = IR).
Basically the battery will produce a lot more current than the
alternator, since it takes 100s of amps
to start the car - so the amps comment isn't correct. To charge the 12V
battery, the alternator will
Put out (while the car is running) a higher voltage, like 13.5-14V to
charge the battery, that's why
there is a regulator, to regulate the voltage. As long as your bike
uses a 12V battery like a car, it
would be fine."
I agree with the quote.

Some of it is an old wives tale most likely

The only real issue is if you put the cables on the wrong terminals and voltage surge issues are probably worse if the car is running.

I think it is probably a good idea to shut the car off anyways

KongBastard
 


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