HELP!! Took out clutch all the way back to the "clutch outer." Put all back together with new pressure plate, springs, bolts, friction plates, steel clutch plates and lifter bearing. All great until wrenching down on the lifter plate. Freakin' Clymers just says to "Tighten the bolts securely . . . ." What does that mean? If you tighten down all the way to the pressure plate towers, the springs are coil bound and the "lifter piece" (a shaft with a flat coin shaped end) will not touch the lifter plate's bearing hence no movement. I've measured over and over again to find how far out lifter plate needs to be when the piece is in its retracted position, otherwise when pushed inward by the clutch lever (at the bar end) there would be no action on the lifter plate. This seems to be a backasswards set up. Other clutch mechanisms make the clutch pack expand outward to free up the pressure on the disks. This puppy seems to compress only. Is there a magic position for the springs to hold tight then lengthen for disengagement? Tried different bolt lengths inward only to get no contact on the bearing or too much - the mechanism in the outer case seems to only have 45 degrees rotation. I've put it back together, put oil back in and started it up but can never get any clutch disengagement - yes, I did that with both cable adjustments each time. Have found no YouTubes for this, no Google "how to's." WHAT AM I MISSING???? Oh, and thx.

 

Chapter 9. Make sure you have the right number and position of each disk and the judder spring, and make sure you ordered the right replacement parts.

https://www.carlsalter.com/mcpdf/Hon...e%20Manual.pdf

 

Oh and when you install it make sure you align the punch marks!

 

FredT here:
Thx much Rockpool! Not sure what you meant by "Chapter 9" Only guide I have is Clymers and in that manual, chap 9 is Cooling System.
I've taken it on faith that the dealership Parts guy and people at Partzilla know what they are doing. Local independent shop, Vicious Cycle (good peeps), compared the part numbers on the packages I received, to a guide online and they seemed to match. I'm sure after removing and reinstalling clutch stack several times that I have that weird "judder spring" facing the right way (convex side facing out) thinnest friction plate is first one next to "clutch center."
Also not sure about punch marks either. Not mentioned in the Clymers. Which reminds me. When I first logged into this forum there were many links to a Service Manual. None worked for me but then again the posts were +10 yrs old.
Cheers

 

Shop manual is here. https://archive.org/details/HondaCBR...1990%20Manual/

 

Thx Rockpool. Unfortunately the link you supplied is to the, how should I say this?, weak, feeble, incomplete, frustrating, BS, ripoff, . . . . etc. Clymers I already have. But no fault of yours, bud.
Still not sure of what you mean by "punch marks."
Does anyone out there in the ether have a bonafide SERVICE MANUAL PDF link? The 10+ yr old links on this forum ain't cutting it. Haven't even found a print one on eBay - is that even possible in this universe? Have I slipped thru a worm hole?
Guess I'll go back to trying to match up the lifter plate's bearing inset position to the retracted rod's (or whatever its official term) position out from the case cover. Maybe a bit of Kentucky windage added to assure contact. Other than that there's that much messed with, mangled nut to take loose to get to plates (more lube?) and pressure plate tangs (smooth friction plate contact). Still can't fathom a wrenched down pressure plate moving inward to loosen up clutch plates.
Speaking of that poor tortured nut: 1) punching down an edge into trans main shaft notch is a black eye on Honda's vaunted engineering reputation. 2) Ya don't need a special tool - just brace the nut's socket mech with a socket's arm on the crank's end nut. Badda bing. 61 ft/lbs no problem.