Hello, I have been trying to get my bike running again, when I first bought it it was gravity fed but I felt as if it was not getting enough gas so I bought a fuel pump and a relay and plugged them both in and I get nothing, I did the fuel pump relay battery test where you connect a multimeter to the battery and test the black wire for battery voltage, I get 11.7 instead on the black wire, when I disconnect my red 9 pin connector where my killswitch and starter switch is plugged in I get the battery voltage on the black wire, I replaced the killswitch/starterswitch housing with a new one and I get the same issue, I have spark so I don't think it's a faulty cdi.

 

My first guess would be the connectors that were unused and open when you bought the bike.

I'm not sure that I understand the description of the electrical tests that you've done so let me describe the tests that I'd do (if at any point you get a low voltage then you've found the bad connector and it must be fixed before continuing) - firstly check the voltage from both sides of fuse G to earth, should equal battery voltage. Next check the voltage from the black on the fuel cut out relay to earth, again battery voltage. If all OK to this point I'd remove the fuel pump and connect the yellow / blue on the fuel cut out relay to earth then measure the voltage from the black / blue to earth, again battery voltage and you have proven that the fuel cut out relay works. If so measure the voltage at the black / blue in the fuel pump connector to earth and the resistance from the green in the fuel pump connector to earth - should be battery voltage and zero ohms so plugging the pump back in should give you fuel (only for the purposes of this test) if the pump is working.

So, when you get this far, remove the temporary earth bypassing the yellow / blue and see if the system now works. If not, the problem is with the yellow / blue wire or a faulty spark unit (which it shouldn't be as you say that you have sparks and I presume that the tacho works or you'd have mentioned it) so check the continuity of the yellow / blue across the fuel cut out relay connector as this is the final link - if it doesn't work by now we need a rethink.

Sorry if this is waffly but I'm better at doing than explaining.

 

hello, I haven't gotten the chance to run any new tests but the tests I did do while battery was at 12.7 was the fuel pump relay test pictured below, since then my battery has drained to 12.2 from testing sparks and lights. For step number 5 I do have continuity from black/blue wire from 3 pin relay connector to 2 pin fp connector.

 

Continuity is not sufficient. You say you have 11 7 volts rather than battery voltage, that shows that you have resistance. A continuity tester will show OK even with quite a high resistance so you need to find the drop in voltage or prove zero ohms at each point.

 

Hello, I decided to start it today using a funnel to the carbs and immediately it started reving high but staying there, either incorrect idle screw adjustment for vacuum leak, I noticed when i would try to twist the throttle I wouldent get anything so im thinking more towards vacuum leak. shut it off after I noticed a burning smell, kind of smelt like old fuel, I checked the headers and noticed cycle #3 was not firing. I pulled the carbs off and noticed they were leaking too, I am going to get someone to rebuild the carbs and restore everything back to oem.

 

Well done, glad you've found the problem :-)

 

Are fuel pumps on this bike supposed to prime when you turn the key? Also do they only start pumping when running like the f3?

 

The yellow / blue wire that earths the relay is the same wire as earths the coils and pulses the tacho so it will only pump when the engine's running.

 

I am still stuck on my wiring, I ordered a new harness and it came but it was rigged up by who ever had it last, what should my next steps be and what kind of tests should i continue with?

 

What was wrong with the previous harness and what do you mean by "it was rigged"?

Have the carbs been rebuilt and did that make any difference?

Did changing the harness make nay difference to the symptoms?