1987 cbr600f
Might also want to upgrade fork springs for your weight and riding style while you’re there. Sounds like you’re close to bottoming fork as it is. Factory springs are really soft at 0.5kg/mm. For my weight of 180lbs, they recommend 0.96kg/mm or close to twice as stiff!
https://racetech.com/product-search/
The GVE valves really improves control of front-end.
https://racetech.com/product-search/
The GVE valves really improves control of front-end.
Last edited by dannoxyz; Mar 30, 2024 at 12:21 AM.
Might also want to upgrade fork springs for your weight and riding style while you’re there. Sounds like you’re close to bottoming fork as it is. Factory springs are really soft at 0.5kg/mm. For my weight of 180lbs, they recommend 0.96kg/mm or close to twice as stiff!
https://racetech.com/product-search/
The GVE valves really improves control of front-end.
https://racetech.com/product-search/
The GVE valves really improves control of front-end.

Its the head bearings that now need replacing. The have a pretty distinct centre notch. I see some upgrade solution with roller bearings?
I’m just about to replace my steering head bearing, in the manual it says the replace the grease cover? Has to be the 1987, but I can’t find one anywhere so I just ordered a normal set of bearings but instead of the ***** they are the built in rectangle shape ones ? I also can’t find the washer for the bolt at the top of steering column , aus you must also replace but they don’t make them anymore and I can’t find them anywhere , I think you have to use a hammer and flathead to spin it so I hope I don’t damage it as I need to reuse 😫
I’ve just replaced my head bearings with taper roller, lots stronger. I had to make a tool to seat the lower bearing on the shaft, that was just a mild steel tube about 400mm long with an internal diameter just larger than the shaft. Main thing is to make sure the bottom of the tube is dead square.
I’m just waiting for mine in post and I will do mine,I wonder if you could help me with a few questions I have before they get here
did you hang your bike when you removed the front?
when you put in the bottom bearing , with the home made tool did you cushion the end that was hitting the bearing down with?
did you reuse all of the washers and bolts from the steering Colomn? I can’t find a lock washer online and Honda don’t make he pry any longer
it says you need a grease holder, also couldn’t find but Ive ordered the tapered roller bearings instead
But if a shopping list but it’s my last job before I mot it and take it for a good run
did you hang your bike when you removed the front?
when you put in the bottom bearing , with the home made tool did you cushion the end that was hitting the bearing down with?
did you reuse all of the washers and bolts from the steering Colomn? I can’t find a lock washer online and Honda don’t make he pry any longer
it says you need a grease holder, also couldn’t find but Ive ordered the tapered roller bearings instead
But if a shopping list but it’s my last job before I mot it and take it for a good run
Best of luck, it was a frustrating job as I'm no mechanic but very satisfying when done.
Last edited by Ed Harris; Mar 30, 2024 at 04:57 PM.
Yeah, I just hang mine from garage beams.

If you got tapered roller bearings kit, parts won’t match diagram because it’s not stock. Assemble parts in order shown in instructions for kit. Toothed washer on top keeps bearing adjustment cup steady while you tighten locknut. You can also use hook-tool aimed in loosening direction to oppose tightening spin from locknut.
If you got tapered roller bearings kit, parts won’t match diagram because it’s not stock. Assemble parts in order shown in instructions for kit. Toothed washer on top keeps bearing adjustment cup steady while you tighten locknut. You can also use hook-tool aimed in loosening direction to oppose tightening spin from locknut.


