Your opinion on this HID conversion kit
#11
i dont like my HID kit and im pretty familiar with the different types. i got a telescopic bixenon kit, which is junk IMO. the magnet holds the bulb fine in one position, but the other (luckily it's the high beams) the magnets aren't active and the bulb just bounces around. if you do anything like this MAKE SURE you get a bixenon kit that has two filaments in different positions. that way the filaments themselves never move and it'll be rock solid whether you're on the high beams or not. the downside to this type is that you need two ballasts for each bulb, but it's worth it to me.
honestly, i am going to be taking apart my bike and doing a projector retrofit from the retrofit source. it is a little bit more expensive, but the results are worlds better. i asked them about the cross hatching/diffused lens and what they would recommend for our headlight setup. here is their response:
i would love to see someone tackle it before me, but i have a feeling it might not happen since a lot of people are reluctant to tear apart the headlight when the possibility of destroying it is fairly high if you don't pay attention to what you're doing.
check them out: The Retrofit Source online: headlight upgrades for all applications
either way, good luck with whatever you decide to do.
honestly, i am going to be taking apart my bike and doing a projector retrofit from the retrofit source. it is a little bit more expensive, but the results are worlds better. i asked them about the cross hatching/diffused lens and what they would recommend for our headlight setup. here is their response:
Hey Nick,
Thanks for the inquiry! It looks as though the diffused lens should only affect the sharpness of the cutoff and perhaps a bit of the brightness of the projector. An XB35 bulb in a Mini H1 projector will help compensate just a bit. If we can be of any additional assistance don't hesitate to ask!
Thanks Nick!
Andrew @ TRS
Thanks for the inquiry! It looks as though the diffused lens should only affect the sharpness of the cutoff and perhaps a bit of the brightness of the projector. An XB35 bulb in a Mini H1 projector will help compensate just a bit. If we can be of any additional assistance don't hesitate to ask!
Thanks Nick!
Andrew @ TRS
check them out: The Retrofit Source online: headlight upgrades for all applications
either way, good luck with whatever you decide to do.
Last edited by Bio248; 03-25-2012 at 08:40 PM.
#12
i dont like my HID kit and im pretty familiar with the different types. i got a telescopic bixenon kit, which is junk IMO. the magnet holds the bulb fine in one position, but the other (luckily it's the high beams) the magnets aren't active and the bulb just bounces around. if you do anything like this MAKE SURE you get a bixenon kit that has two filaments in different positions. that way the filaments themselves never move and it'll be rock solid whether you're on the high beams or not. the downside to this type is that you need two ballasts for each bulb, but it's worth it to me.
I believe you got a very cheap hong kong brand as I have 2 sets of H4 telescopic bulbs in my vehicles and none of them vibrate at all.
Secondly, HID bulbs don't have filaments and I have never seen a bulb that takes 2 ballasts? Do you have a link?
I have seen the HID kits that have a halogen on the side of the HID bulb as the hi-beam (Which are the worst ones you can get)
#13
yeah, my kit is pretty cheap. i didnt really look around too hard when i was picking it up just because i wanted something quickly and didnt care too much at the time.
as far as the filaments, i was referring to the little gas chamber. i have no other word to use for it, haha. the kit i had a while back was a 9007 hi/low kit i had on my grand prix. it had four wires coming out of the bulb and had two separate 'filaments' that were placed offset from one another. when you flipped back and forth the other 'filament' would ignite and the other would go out. i felt it was a very effective system.
i found a picture of the bulb type on google:
i would prefer to have that style of bulb over a telescopic any day of the week, but they are more expensive, obviously. they may have made advancements in the ballasts since i last had one and made a two wire bulb setup possible and switching between the 'filaments'. i am not sure as i normally don't promote HID kits without the proper projector setup since normally the plug and play varieties end up blinding everyone else on the road and not giving that much more of a benefit in usable light. to each their own, i suppose. my headlight is aimed very low so i dont bug people, just for clarification.
as far as the filaments, i was referring to the little gas chamber. i have no other word to use for it, haha. the kit i had a while back was a 9007 hi/low kit i had on my grand prix. it had four wires coming out of the bulb and had two separate 'filaments' that were placed offset from one another. when you flipped back and forth the other 'filament' would ignite and the other would go out. i felt it was a very effective system.
i found a picture of the bulb type on google:
i would prefer to have that style of bulb over a telescopic any day of the week, but they are more expensive, obviously. they may have made advancements in the ballasts since i last had one and made a two wire bulb setup possible and switching between the 'filaments'. i am not sure as i normally don't promote HID kits without the proper projector setup since normally the plug and play varieties end up blinding everyone else on the road and not giving that much more of a benefit in usable light. to each their own, i suppose. my headlight is aimed very low so i dont bug people, just for clarification.
#14
I've toyed with the idea of converting to HID but I really can't justify needing any more light than my 45/45 H4H bulbs on my '90 put out.
Also take into consideration that most reflective street signs will react differently with the higher temperature lights (5500 k and above) and flare really badly reflecting back so white they blind you.
Also take into consideration that most reflective street signs will react differently with the higher temperature lights (5500 k and above) and flare really badly reflecting back so white they blind you.
#15
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