CBR 1000F "Hurricane" 1987-1996 CBR 1000F

Won't idle, shut off,

  #1  
Old 08-25-2016, 06:46 AM
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Default Won't idle, shut off,

So yesterday, my #4 plug fouled.

I changed plug, been doing this about every 3 weeks. Been holding off tearing into the carb, till fall.

This time after I change. Runs but won't idle at all.

I tried the idle screw , like crazy, turns in. Turns out, did not help. I tried the two carb screwed on number 1 and 4 carb, that you would adjust to sync carb.

I had no luck.

I was idling fine and running good, until this, aside from plug on #4, fouling out every few weeks.

Looking for suggestions and what to look at and try.

Ryan
 
  #2  
Old 08-25-2016, 10:07 AM
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I'm worried idle screw is stripped.
 
  #3  
Old 08-25-2016, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Sporty982000 View Post
I'm worried idle screw is stripped.
It's more likely that it has been screwed out enough that it is no longer connected. You would really have to torque on it to strip it.
 
  #4  
Old 08-25-2016, 05:01 PM
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Well, some adjustments has it back idling around 1050, just under 1100 rpm.

Getting more popping now tho, in 3nd or 3rd gear, around 3300, 4000 rpm. This is new.

Any tips on that, where 2 look or adjust at ?

Gone is the low speed Lag below 3,000 tpm. I was having go on, since I got the bike.
She will pop the will in 1st gear now. This is new 2.

Rpm a tad slow to drop and feels very tight, in rpm range, maybe 2 tight. Seems to take longer to get to 9000 rom. Advise ?

Thank you,

Ryan
 
  #5  
Old 08-25-2016, 07:53 PM
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It sounds as if you have some carb or air/vacuum hose work to do.

When diagnosing the problem, don't think RPM. Think throttle position. Focusing on how a bike reacts at a certain RPM can be misleading. Instead, put a piece of tape on your throttle at zero position, then another one right beside it on the bar. Then on twist the throttle all the way to full, put another piece of tape on the bar along side the piece that is on the throttle. That will show you no throttle and full throttle positions. Then, on the bar, divide that space by four and place tape at the 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 spaces.

Then, start up your bike and see how she reacts at each of those positions. Knowing that, you can begin proper troubleshooting.

RPM is just a result of what your right wrist is doing in correlation to how the engine is reacting. So if your engine is running like crap, your RPM's will be off from what your throttle is telling it to do.

Make sense?
 
  #6  
Old 08-25-2016, 08:14 PM
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I ordered a new jet kit, best I can tell, stage 2 is in it.

I am on the look out, thru friends a sync. To borrow.

But I am thinking I need to look at vacuum lines too.

With cooler weather just around the corner, and time to tear down the carbs.

I been just trying to ride, since I was down for a bit, when the alternator and rr, went out a week after I bought it.

Winter time here in Illinois, means 4 me. Repair, repaint, fix bike .
 
  #7  
Old 08-25-2016, 08:21 PM
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I'm originally from next door in Indiana so I get the winters.
You just need to determine what you want your bike to be before you start jetting it.
Before you do that, checking your valve clearances is a must. That is the begging of a through carb job. If they aren't within specs, nothing you do on the cars will make the bike right. Also, jet kits by default assume a certain kind of exhaust by default. The further you get away from stock on that, the more you will need to tweak your jets.
 
  #8  
Old 08-25-2016, 08:29 PM
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It has a jet kit in it now, and a 4 into 1 pipe and silencer.

Not sure what jets it has in it. I'm thinking a synopsis jet kit tho, I did have the tops off on carb, 1 and 4. And they were clean but looked at the needles. How I knew, was not stock. 1 clip up from the bottom slot.


My goal over winter is to check and possibly have a valve job done and top end.

It does not burn any oil. 40,588 on the odometer.

Thanks for your time and input, much appreciated.

Ryan
 
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