What's a fair price for cleaning out my carbs?
 

I was wondering an approximate price I should expect to pay (NY pricing!) to clean/degunk my carbs so my idle can return without having to use the choke to keep it from stalling?
I drained my tank, put in carb/fuel injector cleaner, let her run for about 1/2 with new gas and it still didn't fix the problem.
It smells rich coming out the back of my pipes, but I'm at a block of what to do next without bringing it to my dealer.

A friend of mine has a 600 F2 and he said he paid about $250 two years ago.

Thanks,
Phil

RE: What's a fair price for cleaning out my carbs?
 

remove the screw at the bottom of the carbs and let all the gas/dirt drain out and see if that will improve your idle. I usually drain them every season.

RE: What's a fair price for cleaning out my carbs?
 

Thanks for the tip,
Does it just drain whatever is in the carbs? Or does the tank drain as well?
And also, is it hard to do? I haven't touched the carbs since I've owned the bike all these years.
Has run fine until now (10 years later, lol)

Thanks! again.

RE: What's a fair price for cleaning out my carbs?
 

If it were me, I would lift the tank and remove the vacuum chamber covers and needle and slides, spray carb cleaner in the jets to clean them before draining the bowls.
You will need something in the bowls to flush out any crap that un-lodged from the jets.

I would do this before paying someone else to do it. Hopefully that's all it needs.

RE: What's a fair price for cleaning out my carbs?
 

Thanks I'll look into that as well (will be my first time so I'm assuming a slow process?)

RE: What's a fair price for cleaning out my carbs?
 

I have just finished removing the carbs, installing new gaskets, jet kit and doing a flush. It really isn't hard as long as you have a clean area to work with and plenty of room to lay everything out. Plenty of time helps as well.

I couldn't beleive the amount of crap that was in my Fuel tank and flot bowls.

When I put it all backtogether nad re-filled the bowls it all started 1st push of the button and Idles beautifully.

RE: What's a fair price for cleaning out my carbs?
 

I'm assuming you can't clean the float bowls without taking the tank off completey and the air box unit, is that correct?
I tried today by taking off the vaccum cover on #1 carb and it looked clean, but the others will be impossible with the tank on, plus i'm assuming you need to take off the whole 4 carbs out as one unit?
This would let me get to the bottom float bowls??

Thanks!

RE: What's a fair price for cleaning out my carbs?
 

Yes you will need to remove the carbs from te bike.

There is rarely a need to seperate the carbs.-

RE: What's a fair price for cleaning out my carbs?
 

Thanks for the clarification.

RE: What's a fair price for cleaning out my carbs?
 

For the gas tank, make sure it is near empty, and disconnect the fuel line and vacuum line, and the gauge plug on the left side. Remove the two screws holding the sides of the airbox and move the airbox to the rear. Remove the choke cable from the carbs. Loosen, but don't remove the four screw clamps holding the airbox to the carbs, and the four screw clamps holding the carbs to the manifold. Pull the carbs to the rear until they clear the manifold. Lift up and disconnect the throttle cables, but put a piece of tape on the cables to note where it goes. Pull the carbs out. I turn over the carbs to empty the fuel out the fuel line into a container.

Use a good screwdriver to take out the screws holding the float chamber cover. Use a good screwdriver to take out the idle jet. This needs to be cleaned very carefully on your bike. Use eye protection and spray cleaner until it shoots out cleanly. Use a magnifing glass to make sure it's clean. Spray cleaner down the jet holder until it comes out the carb throat. With your low miles, the float needle and seat, and main jet should be OK. Check the float level as the tab just touches the springy needle on the float needle. Button it up.

Take off the vacuum chamber cover. Watch out for the spring under the cover. Pull the diaphram and piston/needle up. Spray the walls of the piston chamber and clean with a paper towel. Clean the plastic piston with carb cleaner, but don't get any on the diaphram. Don't bent the needle. Now with the choke lever held wide open, spray carb cleaner in the jet above the carb throat. Cleaner should come out a jet in the throat. If it sprayed in your face, the choke isn't held open. Close the choke and spray cleaner through the other air bleeds. Wipe up excess carb cleaner.

Put a little dab of Vaseline in the groove where the edge of the diaphram goes. Spread it thinly around the groove. This is very important as you don't want an airleak. Place the piston/needle and diaphram in the well. Align the diaphram to the little hole and press the edge of the diaphram into the Vaseline-filled groove. If it doesn't stay in place, take it out and put in a little more Vaseline. Don't forget the spring and cover. Very lightly screw in the idle mixture screw and screw it out the correct number for your carb. Now only three more carbs to do.

Of course, installation is the reverse. That's for my 1990. Your's may be a little different. Then I would do a sync, but I have an old Carb Stix. Why pay someone to do something that is so much fun for yourself?