Have you been able tofind the cause to midrange weakness?

 

No[:@] Raised the needles yesterday and no change, maybe only no help with the choke this time and more puffing. Tested with spraying starting gas around the intake rubbers, seemed like no. 2 and no. 4 is leaking air as it raised the idle when spraying there. Also leaning towards the plugs, I´ve been looking at some pics at NGKs site and comparing, my plugs may be overheated, I have DPR8EA since thats what I got from a Honda dealer when I asked for plugs, but the manual and NGK recommends DPR9EA? If fixing this doesn´t help, I´m removing the blank-off plug on the exhaust and putting back OEM can on the left side to see if it´s disturbing the engine. Next is cleaning the carbs, then valve clearance.
My brother is an car mechanic, and he thought it sounded like a faulty spark plug, so I´m having some hopes to that, but I can´t find someone who sells these plug on a weekend.
Thanks for your consern R1000, nice to know someone cares. Glad PÃ¥sk to you!

 

I know its a silly question but have you got the carbs all the way in?

I was chasing leaks for ages until I realised that mine werent in as far as they should be. I found that when I undid the clamps the carbs would be loose enough to pull out from the manifold put wouldnt go back in all the way. Enough to tighten up sure, but you have to really loosen up the clamps to slot them all the way home.

 

I will have a look and see to it that the intake rubbers really closes around the carbs, but I can´t see why they would be loose? The service guys at the shop didn´t want me around when they worked on my bike, and God knows I tried, so I don´t know how much they removed, but I can´t see why they would remove the carbs? This seems to always be the issue, when turning a bike in to a shop, somethings always seems to be forgotten or ignored or not done properly. I even gave the mechanic a printed service schedule to fill out, but they just ignored that... I digged out the old spark plugs to try with if I got around to it, those were in perfect colour. I might be fooling myself here since the old ones might be rusted. I changed plugs, air filter, oil filter and oil before I went to the service shop, 2 hour drive, and on arrival the plugs were white. I put in a HiFlo filter that should be in factory specs, thats the only thing I did that could have changed the air/fuel mixture.

 

I managed to narrow it down to an ignition problem. Seems like cyl. no 3 and 4 is skipping some of the sparks. We connected a stroboscope lamp to the spark plug wires, and the ones on the right side of each coil is skipping some of the ignition sparks. I have put in new spark plugs. We checked ignition timing, and that seemed to be correct. If the coils were bad, wouldn´t both sides of wires coming out of the coils be missing sparks? Could it be as simple as bad spark plug wires? I don´t wanna buy new wires if it turns out to be something else. Can anyone help please?

PS. Had to create a new forum user, I´m at my mum´s right now, trying to find what´s wrong, sorry for that!

 

Yes both sides on the coil would be bad if the coil is out; both sides use the same winding in the coil. And the probability for both coils giving up at the same time is very remote. The cables could be bad, but they shouldn't since my Hurricane was runned on stock -92 and age hardened cables but never missed a spark, and yours are probably newer. In what state and how old is your battery? Did you charged it over the winter?The alternator doesn't give much at a couple of thousands rpm and the ignition needs a fresh battery to support at low rpm's. An easy way to see if the battery or charging system is bad is todrive with and without lights on and see if this will have any influence and then follow up with voltage measurements. My first guess it’s your battery, second guess the RR-unit. All guessing assumes the carbs are real clean. The phenomena with missing flashes on the stroboscope light can be normal, a motorcycle ignition system doesn’t produce a lot of energy and some ignition testers have low sensitivity and are not so good at picking up trig pulses from the HT-wires.

 

Charging is good, idles at 14,7V with lights on and 14,6V with lights off. Battery sits at 12,3V with ignition off, drops to 9,5V when using the starter. No change with or without lights. The missing blinks of the strobe happens exactly the same time the engine misses or gives a little "boff", I don´t think it´s a coinsidence. I fiddled a little with the cables, took them off the coils and measured ohm, got 4,4 to 5,1 in them, but I think it ran worse after that. Had some problems getting a reading from one of them, not one of those that missed before thou. The ignition tester was from the shop where I got help, they normally work on snowmobiles with even lower current ignition systems. The only thing I haven´t done is cleaned the carbs. Those damn spark plug wires are 54 dollars each in Sweden, 25 in the USA[:@]

 

The battery and charging systemseems to be OK then.IbelieveBiltemaand Touringbutiken have high voltage wires and spark plug boots that can be bought as separate items,so you canfabricate new complete ignition wires yourself. This should be much cheaper than$200 which sounds horrible. The wires must be of non-carbon type to last. A simple check would be to borrow a set of coils and cables from just about any 4-cylinder motorcycle, and see if that solve the problem before buying anything.

Assuming the HT wires and boots are OK, you should measure the resistance to the ignition pulse generator according to the manual. Also check that the connectors to pulse generator and ECU and ignition coils are in good condition. Open eachconnector and blow some 5-56 in them and close the connector, then open and close the connectors a few times and they should be OK after that. Also check the plus 12-voltcircuit to the ignition coils; fuse terminal, wires and connectors and low voltage terminals on the coils.

 

A missing plug for the sync tubes can cause a lean condition.

 

Put bothyour stock pipes back on and see if your problems go away. They very well may.When there is a gain in performancein one part of the systemitis ALWAYSat the expense of something else inanother part within the system.