Fingers crossed big man....

 

New reg rec figures for the Electrex R/R as follows
Max charge 15 Volts above 3000RPM, running voltage constant at 14.7 volts for 100 miles. Speeds from 0-125MPH, average around 85 MPH.
5 Minutes after I stop, reg/rec is quite cool.
I still think the voltage into the battery is too high....
What value of resistor should I fit into the red power line between the r/r and the battery to bring the input voltage down to, say 13.5 volts ? Help please, and a pic of what it should look like...
I think the battery can't handle the high voltage and ambient temperatures, and it's causing the battery to lose water, and when it gets too low, it cooks the regulator..... I'll be checking water loss after today's ride, and making a "dip stick" so I can check water levels without removing the battery every time....THE NEW VOLT/TEMP/TIME GAUGE IS A PLEASURE !!!
Now we wait and see......
Thanks to you all for help & suggestions.[sm=thanx.gif]

 

Shadow1, post up some photo's of your new gauges and how they look...

 

Prelim picture.

[IMG]local://upfiles/22903/AF0A6044CB494D649E28E380F2D1F11D.jpg[/IMG]

 

Shadow just want to let you know, I'm going to do the R1 R/R conversion today. I'm sure you must have seen the thread running up in the off-topic section about the R1 I acquired for $500 that is running, but in need of some serious work. That being the case going to borrow the R/R to see what the difference is and will report back on it. If you would like to hear

 

I don't think a resistor can be used for this. The resistor will drop the voltage a lot when the battery needs to be charged and the resistor will become very hot even if it is high power rated. As soon as the charging current begins to drop, the voltage will also drop over the resistor and the final voltage will be about the same as before i.e. 15 volts, even if it will take more time than without resistor.

What I would try to do is to put a 25 amp car diode in series with the charge lead from R/R to battery. This will give almost a constant voltage drop of about 1 Volt and then you will be fine. I wouldn't take poison on that it will work, but I think it will. The foreseen reduction from 15 to 14 Volt will increase the life of the battery tremendously.

I guess you could probably get a car diode almost for free at some junkyard where they have a damaged car alternator. A caraltenator usually have a number of diodes that are mounted on a bridge, and can be pressed out. Just measure the diode with the ohm-meter first so you see it lead in one direction and block in the other direction. The diode will have a metal casing that is one of the twoconnections, so it must be insulated by shrink tube or separated from the bikes metal parts.







[IMG]local://upfiles/4562/F9D55C8035A040B3A6D538FB9ECE011B.jpg[/IMG]

 

Thanks R1000, that's just what I needed (also shows how little I know about electronics)
So, just to clarify, if I fit the diode in the main red battery line it should reduce current flow down to around 13.7 volts ? While this would increase battery life, surely if the regulator doesn't have to work so hard, it will increase it's life also ? If the regulator "senses" how much current the battery needs, and is "told" 13,7 volts because of the diode, this would be a good thing ?

Hardcorp I have a spare original Fireblade R/R if you need it. Postage only. (has both plugs and wires) Thanks for the heads up, and yes, always keen to see how your $500 "special" turns out. D...d good buy that !

 

The diode is not a regulator as such but it has the wonderfulbuilt in nature to drop the voltage by about one volt. Small diodes in radios drop voltages by half a volt, larger diodes as in alternators are around 1 volt. Even though it drops the voltage it will not hinder maximum curent, which is good since we want the charging system to fill a drained battery as soon as possible. Another good side effect with the diode is that it protects the battery if the R/R get shortened. A shortened R/R can drain the battery quick, with a diode you may be able to drive home since the battery will not be discharged bythe failed R/R.

If the charging voltage is 15 now, it will be 14 after mod, if it is 15.5 now, it will be 14.5 after mod etc. Yes the battery, the R/R and the stator will all benefit since the battery will not be charged as high. It is above 14.5 volt or so that the battery begins to draw a LOT of current, this will not happen with a diode that reduces the maximum voltage to 14 volt.

The diode should be put in series with the charge lead from the R/R to battery (yes I think it is red).NOT into any others circuits like wires powering lamps etc.

If you connects the diode in the wrong direction, nothing will be destroyed but the diode will block the charging. If there is an arrow on the diode, it shall point towards the battery. Just use the volt meter across the batteryand check that the engine charges the bike when it runs, then you knowthe diodeis connected correctly.

The CBR 1000 F is known to charge too much, giving to high voltage. If this turns out ok it will the killer mod of Canes, especially in hot climates. High voltage plus heat eat batteries.

Edit, corrected some of the spelling errors, I'm sure there are more but you willunderstand it anyway.

 

So R1000, it(the diode) drops the voltage being pushed, but not the amps needed to charge the battery ?- sounds like a good thing. Thanks again for the help - I'll let you know how it goes....could save us all many dollars, (or Kroner) . We'll have to do a post in the "how to" section, if it works.......
I'll keep you posted, with pics.

 

I'm looking forward to hear about the outcome . In case there is no solder tag on the diode body, you can use a hose clamp an put the wire under it to get a secure connection.