Anybody got a MRA TouringScreen or VarioTouringScreen. Also looking for suggestions on bar back/risers for my '94 CBR1000F. GenMar is not going to be enough for me. I'm thinking 1 1/2" up and 1" back, or so. As far as hard bags I've been looking at the GIVI stuff with the wing rack mounting but with the bags off the rack is a bit too much to look at. Anything with a cleaner mounting system out there? Thanks for any input and dam glad to be here!

 

I've got a whole ST set up on mine. I've got a Zero gravity ST windshield, GenMar risers and a complete Givi sytem with the Wingrack system. I agree that the rack is clunky when the bags are off. Take a look at Twisted Throttle, I ordered my Givi stuff through them. Look at the SW-Motech system, the side racks pop off really easily when you don't need them. The Five Star system is tubular and is the least visible ( I should have gotten that system). I installed heated hand grips and I'm still commuting with my bike in Mass. Here are some pics of what it wingrack will look like and the Genmar risers. The risers worked wounders for me. The stock bars are higher than the new sport bikes as is, the Genmar risers took all the weigh off my wrists, if I went any higher it would effect my riding in the twisties. I can send you more pics fo the the bags and email me if you have any other questions on ST'ing.

 

Hey Geoff- Thanks for the tip on the bag rack. That five star system is a whole lot nicer than the wingrack. I like your set up. I copied your pics from the gallery even before I joined the forum. It looks great. About those GenMar risers, do the riser fork tube extensions screw into the top of the fork tube taking the place of the tube cap? It's hard to believe that 3/4" would make that much of a change in pressure on the hands/wrist. Can you tell me how much taller the Zerogravity screen is over stock height and how tall are you? Tell me about the heated grips you put on. That's on my want-to list as well. Thanks for the great pics and all your tips.

 

cb2cbr I'll try and answer all your question. In terms of the GenMar riser, I initially thought the same thing, but raising your stock bars 3/4 up and 3/4 in really does make a huge difference. I was going to go with the helibars but they are more costly and requries cable extentions. I've done over 500 mile day rides on the bars and my shoulders and butt would give out before my wrists. There was anotehr tread where I posted a pic of them. The risers slide right over the fork tube and come with a new fork cap cover.

The Zerogravity windscreen might add about 4 inches to the stock one, see photo below, Givi also makes some great screens. I'm 6 ft even and the the wind now hits the top of my shoulders, highway riding is so smooth now. My shoulders use to kill me with the stock screen on real long rides (over 300 miles) because the wind would push my shoulders back, now that with the ST screen that is no issue.

Ok for Heated grips, here is a link to them: casportouring.com . I was still commuting reguarly to work and 30 degree mornings were no problems for my fingers until we got our first big storm yesterday. Here are some instructions for the install that my buddy came up with, the heaters come with a high and low switch:
The heating elements have adhesive on the back. That's all you need. I would
highly suggest NOT using an adhesive for the grip as the heating element can
soften the adhesive and the grip can creep around the bar. Use the hair
spray to get them on, then use an air hose under the grip to blow out the
excess hair spray. Let them sit for about an hour o\r so and they'll tighten
right up. After that, safety wire the grips in place.

The instructions for the elements are a little vague.

I'd suggest proceeding in this order:

1) Find a location for the switch. It should be something close to your left
hand so your not taking the throttle hand off of the bar to turn the switch
on/off.
1a) Make sure you can drill a 3/4" diameter hole where you plan to mount the
switch and also make sure that you have at least 1.25" of clearance behind
the panel for the wires.

2) Locate the power positive wire to your headlight. This is where you'll be
jumping the power wire for the grips to. This is to prevent you from
draining the battery if you leave the switch on, but turn the bike off.
Trust me that you will forget and leave the switch on too.

3) Tape the heating elements to the bars so you can do a trial run of the
wires. Move the bars full left and full right when you think you've got the
routing down and make sure there is no binding or pinching of the wires and
that you are not fouling any other controls. Watch especially for the
throttle and clutch cables!!!

4) Remove the old grip with a sharp knife. Make sure you don't cut through
the throttle slide.

5) Clean and excess adhesive off of the bar using sand paper. You do not
need to remove it all, just enough to get the bar relatively smooth.

6) Carefully apply the heating elements to each bar keeping track of the
throttle and clutch sides. Yes, they are different. Make sure the wire is
bent at 90 degrees at the switch housing and again, double check your
routing. If you screw up now, you'll be buying another set of heaters.

7) For the throttle side, you'll want to poke a hole through the flange
"Radially". Use an awl or a scribe. This is where you'll be snaking the
wire. Cut the end of the wire diagonally to help with feeding it through the
flange. Use a small dab of grease to reduce drag and allow the wire to feed
through the flange. Take your time with this. It can be a bit frustrating.

This will allow you to twist the throttle and not wear out the wire by
pinching it between the grip flange and the switch housing.

8) Run the clutch side w

 

geoffv is the CHAMP! Thanks for all your info, and such great detail, what a guy! You have raised the bar on this forum, even without the use of the GenMar's- ha. This is all great stuff and many thanks for sharing your time and experience with everyone. I hope I can put this all together for next season.