Some advice - please....1987 Hurricane
#1
03-31-2009, 09:09 PM
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Some advice - please....1987 Hurricane
About ready to make the leap! Have my eye on a 1987 CBR 1000F Hurricane. Only 21,980kms. Pics look really good. Located 8 hr drive from me so haven't physically seen it yet. Bike has been used very little in last several years but serviced every year. Spoke to the guy who performed the service work each year and am told that everything but tires is original. He did tell me that the engine would sound a little "rattley" when started cold but would disappear after a few minutes when oil pressure increases. I understand this is a cam chain tightener issue and is very common on this bike but should not be a major concern. Can someone comment on this and give me some comfort that this should not be a deal breaker or warn me to step carefully. Would also appreciate some info on the availability of parts for a bike of this vintage. Don't want to drag this on too long but any other words of advice would be muchly appreciated. My first post....but hopefully the first of many.
Ride Safe!!
Ride Safe!!
#2
03-31-2009, 09:18 PM
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The rattle is common on these bikes. As long as the rattle goes away after the bike warms up, it shouldn't be a problem. Mines been rattling like that since I got it, over 20,000 miles (30,000 km?) ago, without a problem. If the rattle doesn't go away, then the cam chain tensioner likely needs replacement. Other guys on the board have done this themselves, and from what I gather it's not too big of a deal. As far as parts availability, generally they don't need much in that area, and what they do shouldn't be too hard to find. Replacing plastics, though, can be a bit tough.
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03-31-2009, 09:23 PM
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#4
04-01-2009, 06:06 PM
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The rattle is common on these bikes. As long as the rattle goes away after the bike warms up, it shouldn't be a problem. Mines been rattling like that since I got it, over 20,000 miles (30,000 km?) ago, without a problem. If the rattle doesn't go away, then the cam chain tensioner likely needs replacement. Other guys on the board have done this themselves, and from what I gather it's not too big of a deal. As far as parts availability, generally they don't need much in that area, and what they do shouldn't be too hard to find. Replacing plastics, though, can be a bit tough.
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04-01-2009, 07:38 PM
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#6
04-02-2009, 06:44 PM
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My '87 has rattled when I start it ever since I've had it. I've had it since May '87, right out of the show room. It mostly goes away when warm, though there has always been a slight rattle.
The bike is a rock. Runs solid with little trouble and can deal with a lot of rider abuse. Plastics are hard to come by. Other parts shouldn't be too bad.
I bought my wife an '83 Kawi without taking it for a ride. I got a good vibe from the owner and felt I could trust him. Its a crap shoot because I wouldn't want to let someone I don't know take my bike for a ride prior to sale, only to drop it or something. So I can understand them not wanting me to take theirs for a ride.
The bike is a rock. Runs solid with little trouble and can deal with a lot of rider abuse. Plastics are hard to come by. Other parts shouldn't be too bad.
I bought my wife an '83 Kawi without taking it for a ride. I got a good vibe from the owner and felt I could trust him. Its a crap shoot because I wouldn't want to let someone I don't know take my bike for a ride prior to sale, only to drop it or something. So I can understand them not wanting me to take theirs for a ride.
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04-02-2009, 06:57 PM
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#9
04-02-2009, 09:40 PM
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This feedback is just great guys!! What a find this forum has become. Nothing better than getting the goods straight from other owners. Keep it coming...please.
I'm getting some good vibes from the current owner but mostly from the previous owner...the original purchaser of the bike, who no longer has any ties to the bike but was more than willing to share whatever info he could. The original owner sold it last year with ~21,000km. Have pictures of instrument cluster from current owner with 21,980km. Plastics look to be in great shape with one small exception...have a close-up pic of the lower right panel with a small crack, which resulted from a tip over, not a riding spill. Can these plastics be repaired?
Long weekend next week. Hope to get to see the Hurricane.
I'm getting some good vibes from the current owner but mostly from the previous owner...the original purchaser of the bike, who no longer has any ties to the bike but was more than willing to share whatever info he could. The original owner sold it last year with ~21,000km. Have pictures of instrument cluster from current owner with 21,980km. Plastics look to be in great shape with one small exception...have a close-up pic of the lower right panel with a small crack, which resulted from a tip over, not a riding spill. Can these plastics be repaired?
Long weekend next week. Hope to get to see the Hurricane.
#10
04-03-2009, 12:29 AM
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Test ride and plastics
If the plastic is needing replacement, replace it. If it can be "patched" with some epoxy/bondo, then fix it. I had a tab that holds one of the screws break (the plastic cover over the radiator cap which has 3 screws) and just epoxied it back on to the inside covering. You'll be fine brother.
As far as a test ride goes, if the owner will not let you test ride the bike, let it sit running for a while and see if the thing overheats or if the electric fans come on and keeps it running smoothly. Then, if it passes the overheating test, have the owner ride it up and down the street a few times past you. Listen for his/her shifting and any other "funny" noises. Make sure the owner runs through all the gears and back down.
On start up, watch for blue smoke out the tail pipes and look for water (white smoke) out the tail pipe. Those tests will tell you if you have a head gasket leak (white smoke) or ring problems (blue smoke on a cold start up). Black smoke is just bad carb adjustment or carbs needing to be rebuilt. Push the back brake peddle down and hold it slightly, if it creeps down, your rear brake master cylinder needs rebuilding. Hold the clutch lever in and see if the clutch disengages (put the bike in first gear and push it while holding in the clutch lever, see if there is hydraulic by-pass or dragging of the clutch). Grab the front brake lever and squeeze it lightly and see if it creeps to the grip (if it creeps, front brake master cylinder needs new cups). By squeezing the levers (brakes and clutch) real slow and softly, the cups that are bad will leak internally - by-pass. A quick grab or push will set them up and little or no internal by-pass will take place. So, easy squeezing and slow (No this not what you think Shadow, what were you thinking?!).
Before going to test the bike, tell the owner that you want the bike to be cold. If it is warm, you will not be able to see if the rings are bad. A warm bike will help seal up the rings and any oil getting past the valve guides or rings will be gone. A "puff" of blue smoke then clear means valve guide seals. Continued blue smoke is ring problems.
The only few things that I would be worried about are rings, valve guides, tansmission and head gasket. The other tests are just to lower the offer price. Good luck brother, hope this helps.
As far as a test ride goes, if the owner will not let you test ride the bike, let it sit running for a while and see if the thing overheats or if the electric fans come on and keeps it running smoothly. Then, if it passes the overheating test, have the owner ride it up and down the street a few times past you. Listen for his/her shifting and any other "funny" noises. Make sure the owner runs through all the gears and back down.
On start up, watch for blue smoke out the tail pipes and look for water (white smoke) out the tail pipe. Those tests will tell you if you have a head gasket leak (white smoke) or ring problems (blue smoke on a cold start up). Black smoke is just bad carb adjustment or carbs needing to be rebuilt. Push the back brake peddle down and hold it slightly, if it creeps down, your rear brake master cylinder needs rebuilding. Hold the clutch lever in and see if the clutch disengages (put the bike in first gear and push it while holding in the clutch lever, see if there is hydraulic by-pass or dragging of the clutch). Grab the front brake lever and squeeze it lightly and see if it creeps to the grip (if it creeps, front brake master cylinder needs new cups). By squeezing the levers (brakes and clutch) real slow and softly, the cups that are bad will leak internally - by-pass. A quick grab or push will set them up and little or no internal by-pass will take place. So, easy squeezing and slow (No this not what you think Shadow, what were you thinking?!).
Before going to test the bike, tell the owner that you want the bike to be cold. If it is warm, you will not be able to see if the rings are bad. A warm bike will help seal up the rings and any oil getting past the valve guides or rings will be gone. A "puff" of blue smoke then clear means valve guide seals. Continued blue smoke is ring problems.
The only few things that I would be worried about are rings, valve guides, tansmission and head gasket. The other tests are just to lower the offer price. Good luck brother, hope this helps.