Soggy brakes
#12
well the brakes work, I'm just not satisfied with how the fronts feel and the back brakes I pretty much never use just like to know they're there.
I got the second line installed on the rear so it'll work all 3 pistons but I lack the motivation to try 'em out in the rain, I'll probably test 'em tomorrow on my way to and from work.
It doesn't feel like it's pulling like a 1000 should, it's got a full aftermarket vance and hines exhaust with a single baffle muffler, a k&n air filter, and a vance and hines power pack. With just the exhaust and filter they'll allow the bike to pull in more air so I need larger jets to compensate, seems to be running pretty lean.
I know it'll stop for me, but it wont run just like I want so that's where I find my rationalization to skip the brakes haha
I got the second line installed on the rear so it'll work all 3 pistons but I lack the motivation to try 'em out in the rain, I'll probably test 'em tomorrow on my way to and from work.
It doesn't feel like it's pulling like a 1000 should, it's got a full aftermarket vance and hines exhaust with a single baffle muffler, a k&n air filter, and a vance and hines power pack. With just the exhaust and filter they'll allow the bike to pull in more air so I need larger jets to compensate, seems to be running pretty lean.
I know it'll stop for me, but it wont run just like I want so that's where I find my rationalization to skip the brakes haha
#13
If you can make your posts easier to read for us old codgers, we'll take the time to read them, and hopefully gather some sort of (halfway) intelligent reply.
PS : you're doing very well so far. Take time to breathe; let the enter key become your friend, (and maybe have another slug of G&T).
Last edited by kiwi TK; 07-15-2013 at 06:36 AM.
#14
Hey man listen, you need to drill and marry all three pistons in each caliper.
The principals of hydraulics dictates so.
You have reduced your stopping power by more than 1/3.
By reducing the piston areas, you have reduced the mechanical advantage of caliper piston surface area ratio to the master cylinder surface area and therefore pushing more fluid under less pressure to the caliper making it grabby and stiff feeling.
Drill the calipers and you will be fine. The rear will still feel a little blocky but the front will improve leaps and bounds. All in all, the braking system will improve immensely.
The principals of hydraulics dictates so.
You have reduced your stopping power by more than 1/3.
By reducing the piston areas, you have reduced the mechanical advantage of caliper piston surface area ratio to the master cylinder surface area and therefore pushing more fluid under less pressure to the caliper making it grabby and stiff feeling.
Drill the calipers and you will be fine. The rear will still feel a little blocky but the front will improve leaps and bounds. All in all, the braking system will improve immensely.
Last edited by TimBucTwo; 07-15-2013 at 08:20 AM.
#15
The only really keeping me from drilling the calipers to link the pistons (other than the drill bit I broke about 30 minutes ago and stabbed into my hand) is I have no clue as to where to drill at, what size bit, and I don't want to mess anything up.
Throw me on an electrical problem and I'll sniff it out no issues, but you start talking fluid hydraulics and you'll lose me pretty quickly haha.
I rode the bike today but didn't even think to use just the back brakes to see how they're working using all 3 pistons, was trying to reposition the clip on one of the jet needles when part of the tip broke off so I spent an unknown amount of time filing and sanding down one from a '80 yamaha xs1100 to make it work.
It's the same length just a different width so it wouldn't sit down far at all, but once again hillbilly ingenuity prevailed and she's running.
And no offense is taken kiwi TK, it's hard for me to want to sit here and read a wall of text and I'm only 26.
I'm getting myself in the habit so hopefully I'll just stick with it
Throw me on an electrical problem and I'll sniff it out no issues, but you start talking fluid hydraulics and you'll lose me pretty quickly haha.
I rode the bike today but didn't even think to use just the back brakes to see how they're working using all 3 pistons, was trying to reposition the clip on one of the jet needles when part of the tip broke off so I spent an unknown amount of time filing and sanding down one from a '80 yamaha xs1100 to make it work.
It's the same length just a different width so it wouldn't sit down far at all, but once again hillbilly ingenuity prevailed and she's running.
And no offense is taken kiwi TK, it's hard for me to want to sit here and read a wall of text and I'm only 26.
I'm getting myself in the habit so hopefully I'll just stick with it
#16
Before I joined the forum I found this thread -->LINK
It had this photo.
Hole size really doesn't matter, you're just pushing fluid to marry the pistons. Once you marry the pipes don't drill all the way thru the calipers. LOL
Remove all the pistons in a way where they are labeled so that they go back into the same hole. There are about 5 piston sizes in the two front calipers alone. You need to remove them to clear all the drill chips with something like brake cleaner spray.
With all the pistons removed you'll be able to see the pipe holes in the outer piston holes and determine where to drill. Get to it man and start drilling like you mean it. LOL
It had this photo.
Hole size really doesn't matter, you're just pushing fluid to marry the pistons. Once you marry the pipes don't drill all the way thru the calipers. LOL
Remove all the pistons in a way where they are labeled so that they go back into the same hole. There are about 5 piston sizes in the two front calipers alone. You need to remove them to clear all the drill chips with something like brake cleaner spray.
With all the pistons removed you'll be able to see the pipe holes in the outer piston holes and determine where to drill. Get to it man and start drilling like you mean it. LOL
Last edited by TimBucTwo; 07-16-2013 at 04:23 PM.
#17
Ok, seems simple enough. When you tear the calipers down do you need to buy new seals or a caliper rebuild kit?
I've never taken calipers apart so I like to get as much info as possible before I just start pulling s**t haha.
I took the bike out earlier and tested out the back brakes, they seem to work alot better using all 3 pistons. It's still not enough to lock the brakes up but they'll slow me down pretty well so I'll take it as a win.
I've never taken calipers apart so I like to get as much info as possible before I just start pulling s**t haha.
I took the bike out earlier and tested out the back brakes, they seem to work alot better using all 3 pistons. It's still not enough to lock the brakes up but they'll slow me down pretty well so I'll take it as a win.
#18
#19
Awesome, thanks man. The rear I actually have 2 lines running to it so all 3 pistons are working together without them being drilled out.
Works pretty well but it won't lock the rear brake up which makes me think that there's still some type of issue with it but as long as it'll slow me down that's all I'm really need, hardly use the back brake anyways
Works pretty well but it won't lock the rear brake up which makes me think that there's still some type of issue with it but as long as it'll slow me down that's all I'm really need, hardly use the back brake anyways
#20
When my bike was linked, I'd pass my buddy and then stand on the rear peddle and it wouldn't lock up. I have to really slam it on to lock it up now. The braking system on these bikes are lacking and the LBS makes it worse.
Be careful at first de-linked, you can lock it up when you don't want to in a sandy corner or wet surface. You will have better control as to where you want the braking power but get a feel for it first.
Be careful at first de-linked, you can lock it up when you don't want to in a sandy corner or wet surface. You will have better control as to where you want the braking power but get a feel for it first.