CBR 1000F "Hurricane" 1987-1996 CBR 1000F

Rough Ride at 8000

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  #11  
Old 01-06-2013, 07:17 PM
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Is your front sprocket loose ? or so worn it's got no teeth ! and the chains skipping and or the chain too slack too
 
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Sprock
Is your front sprocket loose ? or so worn it's got no teeth ! and the chains skipping and or the chain too slack too
Chain and rear rocket are fairly new, front sprocket is in excellent condition. And chain is tight
 
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:02 PM
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I hate electrical problems, but I think they are easier to fix. Juice either flows or it doesn't. The first thing I would check is the ignition timing. Yeah, its a bitch to check because you can strip the nut on the ignition cover, but it was always the first "old school" thing to check, and should still be the first.

Second, do you know how Honda keeps us from over-revving our sweet little engine? The black box cuts out one of the coils at a certain rpm. I don't remember the exact rpm, but let's call it 10,500. Then if you keep on revving, say at 11,000, it cuts out both coils.

As for gauges, the tach could be wrong. When Motorcyclist magazine tested the CBR 1000F in their April 1990 issue, they said the CBR had a measured top speed of 157 mph, but the speedometer registered 185. I've never tested the speedo or tach, but my 90's gas gauge under-estimates gas. It reads empty when there is at least a quarter tank left.
 
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by slowpoke
I hate electrical problems, but I think they are easier to fix. Juice either flows or it doesn't. The first thing I would check is the ignition timing. Yeah, its a bitch to check because you can strip the nut on the ignition cover, but it was always the first "old school" thing to check, and should still be the first.

Second, do you know how Honda keeps us from over-revving our sweet little engine? The black box cuts out one of the coils at a certain rpm. I don't remember the exact rpm, but let's call it 10,500. Then if you keep on revving, say at 11,000, it cuts out both coils.

As for gauges, the tach could be wrong. When Motorcyclist magazine tested the CBR 1000F in their April 1990 issue, they said the CBR had a measured top speed of 157 mph, but the speedometer registered 185. I've never tested the speedo or tach, but my 90's gas gauge under-estimates gas. It reads empty when there is at least a quarter tank left.
But if this were the case wouldn't it do that in second and third? Even so the Rpms kick up when something gives. And I hold the throttle down through it all it doesn't sit there and bounce as if it on the rev limiter, it smooths back out and continues up toward the 10000 mark before I shift.

I and now I know a little more on the black box so thank you
 
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Old 01-07-2013, 02:41 PM
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so with your new kevlar clutch did you replace the clutch springs ?

kevlar clutches need new Heavy Duty Springs and new steel plates

oh yeah and I assume you DO NOT have "energy conserving" automobil motor
oil in it as that will absolutely cause a clutch to break free and slip too as that
kind of oil has friction modifiers in it and is not motorcycle wet clutch friendly
 
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Sprock
so with your new kevlar clutch did you replace the clutch springs ?

kevlar clutches need new Heavy Duty Springs and new steel plates

oh yeah and I assume you DO NOT have "energy conserving" automobil motor
oil in it as that will absolutely cause a clutch to break free and slip too as that
kind of oil has friction modifiers in it and is not motorcycle wet clutch friendly
Yes and yes. New springs and castrol motorcycle oil. 10 bucks a quart. Although I had a guy recommend delo 400le oil. He had a 2011 zx14r and he says it works better than regular moto oil. But I'll let you all know the outcome on a later date on that
 
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Old 01-07-2013, 06:20 PM
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Delo I have used and Mobil DelVac - basically most of the Diesel class oil is good

So if you put new Heavy Duty Springs and good friction plates in basically a whole kit
it does not make sense why it would break free and slip with new bike specific oil too

Weak springs scorched plates and wrong oil are only things I can come up with in that
assuming all was reinstalled correctly in the correct order etc. plate wise
 
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Old 01-07-2013, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Sprock
Delo I have used and Mobil DelVac - basically most of the Diesel class oil is good

So if you put new Heavy Duty Springs and good friction plates in basically a whole kit
it does not make sense why it would break free and slip with new bike specific oil too

Weak springs scorched plates and wrong oil are only things I can come up with in that
assuming all was reinstalled correctly in the correct order etc. plate wise
Yea I kept it all in order as I took them off so I would put them on right. I honestly don't know to much when it comes to the tranny. Anything in there that could make it slip into something neutral like?
 
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Sprock
Is your front sprocket loose ? or so worn it's got no teeth ! and the chains skipping and or the chain too slack too
It sounds like the area to look at. Sounds like a chain climbing on a sprocket under heavy load.

Check chain tightness and alinement.
 
  #20  
Old 01-08-2013, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Insan3Nightmare
Chain and rear rocket are fairly new, front sprocket is in excellent condition. And chain is tight
Got a pic so we can see ?
 


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