I purchased the tool after doing my valves with a pair of vice grips and a deep socket. I think it will be much easier next time.

 

Just got done removing the Pulse Sec. Air Inj. Control valve (PAIR)off my 94 got rid off about 10 feet of vacume line when i removed that along with fuel vapor can.. bike runs alot stonger and smoother.. Would pop out the vance hines exhaust underdeceleartion before removal ,now its smooth.. if you do this be sure to leave the two portsopen between #1 and #2 carbs and between the #3 and #4 other wise bike wont run -other than that plug off the rest of the ports and run a vent tube down from fuel tank.. also you can run the idle down to abuot 900 to 1000 rpm smoothly.
makes it alot easier to get to the valve cover and cleans it up alot
the best way i found to adjust the valves is take a 10mm craftsman deep socket grind two flats on each sideon the topto fit a 14mm wrench on it. take a regular allen drop it in the center of the socket and adjust.. that way you can hold the allen and tighten with the 14mm wrench.. works really good.. also i bought narrow feeler gauges.. the standard wide ones work but i feel i get a better adjustment


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I had to grind the socket so the vicegrips would not slip. 14mm wrench sounds better though. Mine are flat head screwdriver; not allen wrench. You must have thought I had mad grinding skills.

 

The EGR does a couple of things. The main one is to reduce the combustion temperature to reduce emissions. Knocking could occur if it is not working correctly, trashing the engine if not tuned for its removal. With the reduced combustion temp. there is more expansion results from the air/fuel mixture giving more power. Fuel economy will suffer when they are not working. I had to mix the one on my car as it would ping at full throttle and suck gas.

 

Didnt realize 93 back were flathead adjuster.. maybe bend a screw driver in a 90 degree angle if it will fit inside the socket...might work?

 

Im just going to arc weld a piece of iron rod to the socket and be done with it.

Very Motley, did you grind your socket with two flats or four flats for your wrench to slip on to?

 

i just grinded two flats... also use a twelve point socket not a six point.. more easy to adjust.. basicly thats what the oem tool looks like-a socket with a rod welded to it

 

Mine had no flats to speak of, I just had to rough it up so it would grip. The grips don't get a good bite on hardened steel.

 

well I finished adjusting the valves and the ground socket\vise-grips worked fine. Only had a couple valves slightly out by .01 or .02" or so.

Although I found the needle-nosed visegrips to work best as they gave more clearance to work.

One thing I noticed was the cam chain seemed to have a left a track mark on the valve cover. I checked the tension on the chain and it seemed good and tight. It was only noticable on the front portion of the cover. Could it be spinning enough to "rise" the chain off the sprocket and touch the cover???

 

Mine left a track mark too, when I checked out the old one I found a mark, more an oil transfer mark really in the front of the cam chain guard. I think it may have been due to chain slackness and oil being thrown up by the chain, but not sure.....Mine wasn't touching, no groove or anything, just a strange mark....