How does one determine if the proportioning valve is working on a '93? The Honda manual says replace if faulty, what's faulty - no pressure at all? There's no serviceable parts to thing apparently.

I've got problems with the pressure staying on at the rear caliper - sometimes. I suppose there is a valve in the rear master cylinder or secondary master cylinder that is not releasing every time. I'd like to rule out the proportioning valve since a new one is $350+.

ldgf

 

If you do have to replace the valve assembly, servicehonda.com carries them new for $252 plus shipping.

 

ldgf,

I de-limked my '94 and I have a spare proportional valve.
Are you interested?

 

TBT, Welcome !!!!!!!!!!! delinked????... I'll bet you've got alot of 1000f owners atention !!!!!!!!! What do you think??? was it purely a change to enable you to make the brake use( f/r) choice??? did you use aftermarket lines??? how many??? How straight forword was it???
Would you please comment, about the dif. in brake'n?? do you have any suspension upgrades??? Was there a diff. in brake/ suspension loading after the change, other than the front dose'nt dive w/ rear brake application??? How about the rain, and brake'n late/ or slightly healed over??? I sometimes pick the front end, back up faster, out of a corner, by slight front braking... has this become pronounced??? Has the rear end stability changed significantly, under braking?? Are the brakes easy to modulate??... realizing more skill is required to balance, as w/ a normal unlinked system. Any conditions of brake'n, that are espc. better/ worse ????
This is a wonderfull oppertunity for every one to hear "from the horses mouth" THANKS, Clean and free Ripp'n

 

I may be interested - I'll know in about a week. PM with price. I still have brake issues somewhere in the system.

The mechanic thought he solved the problem after cleaning the linkage at the left front caliper. He test rode the bike several times without incident; unfortunately, when he was delivering the bike to me the rear brake actuated again - got hot enough to damage the rear brake lines. There has to be a valve not releasing somewhere but it is intermittent. I'm going to put new seals in the rear, rebuild the rear master cylinder and put stainless brake lines to the rear caliper. If I still have problems, I think I'll simplify the system and de-link it. My mechanic recommended that when we started troubleshooting this but most of the posts that I could find seemed to think it was a bad idea for just road riding. I'd like to see your comments about delinking.

I bought this bike on eBay in mid-May and have yet to ride the twisties of the Ozarks. I'm starting to get a bad attitude!

ldgf

 

The trouble here is that there are three and a half ways the rear break could be sticking.

First, one of the three pistons in the rear caliper is sticking.

Second, the secondary master cylinder that your mechanic has been working on may be
Clogged

Third, the proportional vale may be clogged or faulty.

And the ½, the rear caliper could be the faulty as you suspect. You could check it quickly by having someone sit on the back of the bike when the bike is on the center stand and the front wheel is in the air. The rear master cylinder sends fluid to the rear caliper and both front calipers at the same time. I describe it in the link below, or back out and look for Linked Break System thread started by cr cbr. If the rear caliper is sticking, you should not be able to turn the front wheel or be able to turn it without resistance.

https://cbrforum.com/m_123770/tm.htm

In a day or so when I get time I will describe the de-linking process w/pics. I will post it in the LBS thread that I mentioned above. It coould save you money.
It coast me $180 US because I bought 3 braided S.S. lines at $50 each. Honda parts may be cheaper.