Sorry for another thread about cleaning carbs... but I have two questions I didn't want to ask in another mans thread

First of, this is my situation;
The bike has a TERRIBLE idle, calling for the need to take them apart for further inspection; the engine is acting like there's a vacuum/air leak, with a high idle (between 2000 and 4000rpm) and revs drop slooooowly after releasing the throttle, but I'm 99% sure there isn't an air leak.
It idles at 4k rpm after riding around, so when releasing the throttle it still wants to go; this is as soon as I have first opened the throttle.
At traffic lights, I even have to put it in first and let the clutch slip a bit to get it down to normal revs.
When I select neutral after that, it starts to idle between as low as 2k and as high as 3k, until I open the throttle a bit after wich it climbs back up to 4000-4200 rpm and stays there.
Only been trying to troubleshoot with a warm engine, but revs do drop slowly after releasing the throttle then too.

Because of the above, I want to clean my carbs tomorrow (I don't think the last owner/owners have cleaned them for at least a few years now), but I don't have access to gauges for the synchronizing job.
Should I take the carbs apart for cleaning anyway, or just leave them as is because I can't re-sync them?

And the bike smells a bit of fuel after a night in the shed, I'm guessing the fuel tee's O-rings are shot.
What size are the rings exactly and how many do I need?
If I can just get a set (from a local hydraulics shop maybe) before taking it apart I can both clean the carbs and replace the old rings and fuel lines at once

By the way, if it makes any difference; sig says 87 Cane, but it's a 95 engine.

 

I had the exact problem you are describing. The cause was as simple as the solution. The previous owner set the idle with the engine cold. The solution is to reset the idle with the engine hot(about 3/4 up the gauge). 1800 to 1500 should do it.

 

I did try turning the adjuster on the left side of the carbs, but it doesn't even react to it.

 

That is a bad sign in and of itself. Check your cables coming to the carburetor for binding cables, choke slider bar going through it's full range of movement, and of course the idle adjuster. The **** to adjust the idle takes some turning to make even small adjustments (fine thread) but it should do something.

Keep in mind what that adjuster does. It changes how open the throttle butterflies are when the bar control is in the rest position. So either they are open enough to pull enough air/fuel to maintain the high revs or your in a choke condition ( choke is always open or the bowl floats are flooding the bowls and then out into the cylinder.)

 

I know... does need inspection.

I'll pull the carbs off (and apart) now, will do the O-rings later as I can't find their size anywhere on the forums... I just hope they don't leak after putting the carbs back together.

 

You can do a pretty good cleaning, and bench sync with the carbs (all 4) still together. I think once you clean your pilot jet, and re-bench sync them the Idle should be able to adjust. just make sure you close them up a bit before trying to start it or she will rev up quick. And about the RPM's not wanting to drop it sounds like your throttle cable may need adjusted, or lubed and cleaned. Does the throttle snap back after releasing from full throttle, when the bike is off? If not then the cable may need lubed/adjusted or replaced.

 

I fixed it... didn't even have to pull the carbs (wanted to avoid it with the risk of damaging the o-rings, meaning I'd have to walk).
After taking of the fuel tank I noticed that the throttle butterfly didn't come all the way back unless I'd push it back down.
I cleaned the throttle handle and handle bar, I've also put some WD40 on the moving/pivoting parts on the carb side.

The right inner carb was not properly fixed in the rubber, as the carb side clamp was positioned way too much to the middle of the rubber, pushing the carb out in stead of holding it in place.
After pushing it back in (a few mm), the throttle came back all the way.
I can tell you, after it got back from a tune-up, this point should not have been there, it's just not right; not going back there, that's for sure!

Third and last; after disengaging the choke, the rods didn't go back in the carbs all the way either, unless I pushed them in.
It was just in need of a bit of WD40, the guides that hold the rod in place (between the back of the carbs and the engine) were a bit rough with age or whatever.
Again, some WD40 applied to moving/pivoting parts never hurts.
So it's all done now... I've only done a quick test drive up and down the street though

And still, I'd would really love to know what size o-rings I need for the tee's

 

Depending which model you have (I think) there are two cable controlling the throttle. If either one is sticking or is not operational, the bike will probably behave exactly as yours does.

I'd check those first, then do a clean.

The fuel leak could be as simple as the clamp on the end of the fuel line, at the petcock. If it's weeping, you'll get a smell of gas.
I now use cable tiesx2 there.....

 

It does have room for a second cable on both the handle bar side as on the carburettor side, but there isn't any... I'll report back later tonight after a test drive

About the fuel smell; I never noticed it before, but some douche used a piece of GARDEN HOSE between the petcock and the connecting plastic thingy... that'll need sorting out asap.

 

Had two 12½ mile drives yesterday, the bike runs great now!
Problems are over, though I still need to fix the makeshift 'fuel line'.