^ Mine are still somewhat soft.

If your getting fuel and it still not running on #2&3 I would switch the coil wires and Plug wires to see if she will fire on #2&3 and go dead on #1&4. Starting to sound more like electrical if fuel is flowing. That would be my next step.

Sounds like coils are wired correctly now or #4 would not fire.

 

Nothing worse than hard rubbers man - honestly

Could be the case they are not sealing, little piece of vacuum hose/tube with a plug
or sillycone in it will suffice


hmmm with the carbs you may need to split the bank and check the valve screens as you
pull the fuel T's out - it's one way to deal with the none removable issue.
Tip : Watch for escaping butterfly springs if you do this - those barstuds take off when
you split the carbs - never to be seen again

 

I have the carbs on the bench and have removed the floats and valves. Turned the carbs upside down and poured fuel into the T's. Coming through to all carbs fine. I am now confident I am getting fuel to all the bowls. What is not happening is the fuel being sucked from the bowl through the jets and into the engine. That's why I am looking at the loss of a vaccuum as a potential issue. I hope it is the rubber plugs as I will be at a loss to the cause at that stage.

 

That to me would indicate a loss of vacuum on the intake/head side of the carbs
Cracked or loose rubbers maybe ? & all rubber vac port caps in place ?

 

I was thinking the same thing. If fuel is flowing and you know for sure its sparking propperly, its time for a compression test.

or

With carbs off, put the palm of your hand over the intakes and crank it over. You should feel equal vacuum on #1 thru 4.

 

OK I will give that a try tonight and see if I can see a difference on the vacuum.

 

Taking a closer look at my carbs today.

Noticed this

Diaphragm on 1 vents to 2

Diaphragm on 4 vents to 3

2 and 3 T togrther and vent to a SUB AIR FILTER.

Took the filter apart

Image 1. Filter undisturbed SubAir1 Photo by Sean71K | Photobucket

Image 2 Filter broken up on removing

Subair2 Photo by Sean71K | Photobucket

I'm thinking maybe my diaphragms on 2 and 3 are not venting and thus not allowing needle to lift.

I hope to re-build the bike tomorrow and test

Cheers

 

Pull the caps and tubes betting you'll find the remaining foam crumbs !
Not hard to make replacement a foam piece

but in of itself that would not prevent firing at idle on 2/3.

On idle without revving I take it the downpipes are cold on 2/3 ?

that indicates the 2/3 pilots are blocked if so ! or the coil pack ain't giving
enough juice for spark or similar electrical issue.

 

Foam was actually in ONE piece, it only crumbled when I tried to remove it, so there will be no crumbs in my carbs.

Depends on you definition of cold, my less than technical test was a kids water pistol. When I squirted water on 1 and 4 it fizzled and spat like a hot pan. On 2 and 3 it just evaporated with no fizz. It was deinately not cold, too hot too leave your hand on them, I assumed the heat on 2 and 3 was heat RADIATED from 1 and 4.

I am going to borrow a calibrated temperature probe from my work for a proper test when I put the carbs back on.

I am going to put the carbs back on tonight and see what happens (touch wood!!)

 

If the pipes are warm then, you should switch out the coils to see if the problem follows them. Do this to rule out coil & plug wire problems. Maybe move the plugs too, they could be cracked.

If things remain the same, problem leans toward compression. Rings or valves would be in question. You still need to crank it with palm of hand over intakes.

The problem may be as simple as tight valves where more lash would get them seated.