new chain and sprockets?
 

is something I can use or do i really need to shell out the $178 for the xring chain from DID and another $60 for the sprockets? USD

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda...Q5fAccessories

Well its a chain and sprockets , don't know what the quality is like .

I'm with Hawk. Chain and sprocket are no place to go cheap. It's false economy when it lets you down or wears out before it's time.

Don't do it !!:eek:

http://i15.ebayimg.com/02/i/001/2a/73/3d81_1.JPG
No name brand drive gear will not be any good and will not last ..

The good stuff wears out fast enough , so cheap chit is false economy as cb2cbr mentions...

any recommendations then?

I have never bought anything except DID or RK and never had any troubles with them...
The type of chain you buy from them will vary in price depending whether you go for std or high performance...?? just a budget decision really ?

They are prolly the best quality STOCK drive gear you can buy for a reasonable buck :D
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ID-Chains.aspx

You might want to give an after market set of sprockets a go if they are the extra hardened ones that will last a bit longer ... and no I cant give you a brand at this moment ...

The stock Honda ones are fine though ...:D

really im just looking for normal riding...yes I ride at 120, yes Im hard on the throttle, yes I want a chain that wont break on my take offs....no I have no idea about chains and tensile strength and wear rates, same goes for sprockets...My sprockets look great to me, but Ive always been told replace them all as a set...I readjusted and lubed the chain and it feels better...may not need one quite yet, but soon.

I cant afford honda sprockets...the rear is $124 (sucks), front is $31 (fine) and the chain is like $148 for the DID equivalent or $276 from honda.

theres no way Im spending $431 on a chain and sprocket set. (plus another $109 for the chain tool) thats ridiculous.

that link you gave me says $209 for the same chain I can get on ebay for $148...530 zvm2 by the way.


what about this one? http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ing-Chain.aspx I mean...do I need the zvm2?

or there is this too....
http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/1032...t---honda.html

swisherred, I bought vortex racing sprockets last year from kneedraggers and an RK Racing Gold Chain. I think the total bill was around $175.

I looked at kneedraggers for you, but it doesn't look like they have much for the 1000F anymore.

However, IndySuperBike seems to have quite a bit of stuff for the 1000F, including several sprockets. The vortex racing ones are like $25 for the front and $50 for the rear. Driven Sprockets also make a few for this bike (530s), but they are a little more expensive at like $30 front/$70 rear.
As far as chains, I like the RK chains. I'm having trouble finding the 114link 530 in the gold. I know it's out there somewhere, though. You should be able to get a longer one cut and linked, though, like the 120. I can't remember for sure whether I did that or found the 114link. Indy has the gold 120link RK Racing 530 Chain for $99.99 and RK master links for $5.

That link was only to let you see the different DID chains for comparison mate :rolleyes:

Obviously like most online, ... Fleabay is the next step once you decide on the type you want...

sorry...didnt mean to sound like I was complaining..just letting you know it could be had for less on ebay if you ever needed one.

thanks too kilgoretrout...will check them out as well. I have never heard of RK chains untill a few days ago...Ive always used DID...is there a quality difference?

No probs mate ..:D

The difference would be not much if anything ...
RK have been making top chains since before I was a kid , and that's about 145 years ...LOL
check them out , have a read :D
http://www.rk-excel.co.jp/global/chain.htm

Checking the chain
 

Hey Red, I don't want to be a butthead, but how are you checking the chain's wear? I think you said that you adjusted it and it seems better. Adjustment makes no difference on a worn chain. You check the chain by grabbing the chain while it is on the sprocket. If it lifts off half way up the tooth, it is worn, if it says put, it still has some life left in it. The place to grab the chain is in the middle of the rear sprocket that faces to the rear.:)
Is that the way you are checking for chain wear? Adjustment on the chain only takes up the slack between the counter sprocket and the rear sprocket, it does nothing for a worn chain when you check it at the middle of the rear sprocket.:D

I had made a mistake...I saw the chain was pretty loose after a good 120 run for about 15 miles...I forgot they loosen with heat...so I tightened it and then it was too tight...I now have the correct tension on it, but the wear mark on the adjuster is sitting on the "replace" line on the sticker on the swingarm...I can see a very very slight wear on the front of the teeth so i figured chain and sprockets are due. also teh chain had tight spots on it...some links that wouldnt straighten all the way...lubed it and that fixed that. Ive never been very good at the chain thing....can never find a real good explanation on wear..checking teh movement at the middle of the top run between sprockets on some sites, bottom on other sites...1/2" up and down on some, 1" both ways on others...3/4" on others...I figure if im running at 120mph I dont want to make a mistake on the chain and have it break or derail on me.

I have never checked it at the rear of the rear sprocket either...will do that tonight. I generally pay attention to the noise the chain makes...this generally tells me its too tight or too loose depending on the sound.

Nevada I'm assuming I'd have to check for chain wear on the side-stand , so both wheels are on the ground?

Chain wear checking
 

Here is the scoop on chains. The chain slack between the front counter sprocket and the rear sprocket is for the swing arm movement. The swing arm goes up and down and the distance from the front counter sprocket to the rear sprocket at the top of the swing, middle of the swing and bottom of the swing are all different distances, therefore, the "slack" (be it 3/4" or 1/2" or ??) must be adjusted to make sure the "tightest" point has enough slack so as not to break the front counter sprocket shaft from the housing. Look at a Buell and you will see an automatic adjuster that is spring loaded to keep the belt tight, therefore, the adjustment for all distances is compensated for by the "idler arm", which is the automatic adjuster..... The distance between the front counter sprocket and the rear sprocket is known as an ARC, which in the case of the sprockets distances is non-concentric.... It is eliptical so the distance changes throughout the ARC. Look at the pivot point of the swing arm and the point where the counter sprocket sits. ARE they PERFECTLY the same? No, if they were, the swing arm would be connected to the counter sprocket shaft as it is turning. Therefore, the distances changes in relation to the rear sprocket causing a variance which requires compensation - known as "slack." Or the use of an idler arm adjuster. I believe Buell got it right for riders.
The chain wear condition is only and I repeat only known by checking the chain while it is on the rear sprocket. The chain lays on 15 teeth or so of the rear sprocket and, therefore, the distance between the first tooth the chain touches and the last tooth the chain touches is a "fixed" distance. Sprockets have a fixed distance between the teeth. If your chain is worn, it will be loose between the teeth. Grab the chain, with your forefinger and thumb, while it is on the sprocket and try to lift it off the sprocket. If the chain can be lifted off the sprocket, your chain "has" wear. Normally, as long as the chain does not come off the sprocket more than half way up the tooth, it is still serviceable. If the chain can be lifted off more than 1/2 way up the tooth, it is unserviceable and can jump the sprocket (no matter what your slack adjustment is) causing rear wheel lock-up or bad damage at the least.
How to adjust the chain for slack is a definite problem, because you must find where the distance between the front counter sprocket and the rear sprocket is the greatest. That is where the chain must be adjusted at. So, the manuals will give you a point at which your bike must be set to adjust the chain "slack" only (point of greatest sprocket distance). Here is the problem that many people run into on chain adjustment.
Aftermarket shocks may make the bike sit at a different point than where the manufacturer says to check the chain slack and adjust it. If you are at the "replace chain" indicator, you are at the point that the OEM chain must be replaced and not necessarily an aftermarket chain.... As you find, a 1/2 turn of the adjustment bolt can be a huge difference in chain slack adjustment (call it chain "slack" adjuster and you will never forget what that adjustment does). So, since a good chain will not jump the sprockets because it fits in between the sprocket teeth perfectly, one must only get the "slack" adjusted so it does not "slap the chit" out of things and must NOT EVER put so much tension on the front counter sprocket that the tranny housing cracks because of lack of chain slack...
Hope this helps and my little voice is telling me to get in the shower because I stink, so I'm off to do something about that.....:D
P.S. Here is a thought about the "replace chain" indicator. Buy a brand new chain that is 5 links to long. Put it on the bike and adjust the chain. You will go past the "replace chain" indicator. So, go out and buy the same chain again and repeat - see? Slack adjustment only is that "indicator" marking. The chain is not WORN, it is just too long for the slack adjuster.
P.S.S. Hawk, if the above does not answer your question send me a message. Wear and slack are two different things. You could actually check for chain wear with the chain on the sprocket and the sprocket off the bike.... Just wrap the chain around the sprocket and try to lift the chain off the sprocket between two teeth of the sprocket.

Excellent explanation Nevada , yes it does answer my question and thanks for taking the time to impart wisdom upon us mere mortals;)

Mere Mortals
 

Hawk, with your taste in music, you are immortal to me brother!:D BTW, You are welcome....:)