Ok. I went to check valve clearance/CC/CCT the other night and found that it was going to be much more difficult than I originally expected (based on the write-up and my car knowledge).
I pulled the tank up to find a "Pulse secondary air injection control valve assembly". [:@]

Basically, there are freakin' hoses going every direction, and a plate that holds some sort of air control device. I can't just pull the coil, wires, breather and get to the valve cover because this POS is in the way. I was going to just start rippin' stuff out, but then thought better of it, and figured I better ask the experts. I've been told this is some type of restriction device? The manual says it is on Austrian and Swiss bikes only, and I've got the dreaded California sticker on my air box, so I'm guessing that's what it is. After a search on it, I found that it is for injecting air into the exhaust stream for emissions. Sounds like it needs to go...

If anyone here can give me some direction on this, it would be much appreciated. I've had this bike up to 140+ MPH, so I guess I never really thought about it much. I will tell you one thing, though, I bet I could do a motor swap on a civic quicker than I could evenGET to the valve cover on this bike.

Any ideas?

 

I wish I could help you, but I haven't seen any bikes withe the PAIR on it. Just a suggestion though, use a digital camera to photograph the locations of all the hoses to help you remember. Get many angles and then start ripping it apart .

 

Yep, the pics have been taken. Many angles.

I started ripping about an hour and a halfago. Got a little nervous here and there. Maybe I'll post a couple of the pics for you guys who haven't seen this BS. It's like vacuum/air line spaghetti.
Remove this, plug that....this one seems like it should be open....I think this one may be important.....why does this one go up through thefront cowl?

So after i disconnected 90% of the lines, I started her up. Ran on choke a couple minutes like normal, took off the choke, and it idled pretty good, but washesitating on throttle.With the choke on, it bounced up to about 4k, and didn't sound bad.I let it warm up, still the same. This would indicate I'm running lean. I dumped some more gas down the tube, and kept screwing around. Then i decided to temporarily put the tank back on. It seemed to respond a good bit better, and when I put the choke on, it died like it normally would. Then I started smelling gas. Running rich, or is it the big puddle of gas under the bike? I'm still not sure where that came from. I tried to get the side covers off real quick to find it, but I couldn't. Didn't look wet anywhere I could see.

 

wikipedia definition............

Secondary air injection (commonly air injection, colloquially smog pump, trademark Air Injection Reactor) is an automobile emissions control strategy introduced in 1966, wherein fresh air is injected into the exhaust stream. The exact mechanism by which exhaust emissions are controlled depends on the method of injection and the point at which air enters the exhaust system. The first systems injected air very close to the engine, either in the cylinder head's exhaust ports or in the exhaust manifold. These systems provided oxygen to oxidize (burn) unburned and partially-burned fuel in the exhaust before its ejection from the tailpipe. There was significant such unburned and partially-burned fuel in the exhaust of 1960s and early 1970s vehicles, and so secondary air injection significantly reduced tailpipe emissions. However, the extra heat of recombustion, particularly with an excessively rich exhaust caused by misfiring or a maladjusted carburetor, tended to damage exhaust valves and could even be seen to cause the exhaust manifold to incandesce.

 

Yeah, I read that one too. Have you seen this thing, gill? Those descriptions don't do it justice.

I was just hoping someone on here had removed or worked on all this stuff before, and could offer some pointers, that's all.

 

Well Ive been a mechanic for over ten years, and if its anything like I've seen in the past, you might fine it hard to get it tuned to original standards. Changing jets and modifying vaccuum ports, plugging tis and plugging that, or even burning valves. Unfortunatly, that was the way it was designed. However if you dont do it you'll never know right? At least if you remove it in a manner that you can hook it back up you should be safe. Dodge had it on alot of their cars back in the 70's and 80's and when customers came in with a seized air pump ($700.00 in 1981 was alot of coin) we would just plug the air tube with a plug about the size of a broomstick and remove the V-belt from the pump. Engine ran the same with no problems. Normally the air pump shouldnt pump air into the engine at idle or at WOT, just in between so it sounds like when you are giving it throttle, it is getting the incorrect dousage of air/fuel mixture. You might have to fiddle with the carb floats to adjust the mixture. Again, your going into unfarmiliar territory....good luck skipper!

 

here

[IMG]local://upfiles/23307/0C10F2356F45410993555AD77B89B86C.jpg[/IMG]

 

I'll take pics tomorrow of my bike after "pipe surgery" so you have some idea how it should look.

 

Thanks.
I'm of the idea that as long as I set mine up likea bike that doesn't have any of this crap, it should work fine. That's where I'm going with it now. All the basic stuff should be the same. If I route vacuum the same way you regularly would, I shoud be ok. Then, if it runs like crap, I'll make some adjustments and trial and error BS until I get somewhere.
Gill, that picture you posted looks somewhat like mine, but if you can believe it, I have way more vacuum/air lines on mine. I'll try to post a pic tonight when I get home.
Shadow, pics would be great!
Thanks again to the both of you.
Wish me luck, because tonight there are going to be some changes.

You know, another thing i noticed is that I can't just disconnect the fuel gauge wire from the harness on the side and then run it back and up because it's taped in with the other wiring. Are they all like that? I snipped the wires under the tank and put snap connectors on. Works well for quick tank removal...

 

This has been mentioned before, but to save you looking for it I'll say it again - the restricted models have "narrowed" inlet rubbers, which restrict the gas/air flow to the engine, and may account for the (current) poor running symptoms. You'll have to grind off the "ridge" inside the rubber inlets before attemping to tune the bike. (or just get some more inlet rubbers) This should increase your power output from around 100BHP to around 125BHP....(I spoke to my bike's previous owner - he said top end before surgery was around 220 KPH, and afterwards around 285 KPH, with big improvements in the overall "grunt and grin" factors.}That's speedo speed, probably around 265 KPH real speed.