Let me start with this; I've been successfully wrenching on my own cars for a few years now, so I have lots of tools and know how to put them to proper use.
Nice thing about a bike is that I can do everything inside at my parents house (big shed), and actually reach parts without breaking my back.

I've got a 1987 CBR that has been converted to a 'streetfighter' with a newer engine (I believe it's a '90 with '87 carbs).
I'm on a bit of a budget and need to do a lot of things to it to make it look like a nice bike again, and most importantly, I want to spend a bit of time on the engine as well, as I suspect it hasn't really been looked after too well.
I was planning on replacing all the seals and gaskets, and my timing chain is rattling too.
How wise is it to use ebay non-OE parts?
Not looking for the cheapest possibel stuff, but just for good stuff that's reasonably priced.
And what else would be wise to replace on the engine (besides plugs, oil/oilfilter, coolant/thermostat) ?
Chain and gears are fine, need some cleaning up and lubricating, but otherwise in good condition.

Any advice is really much appreciated, I want this bike to ride like a dream again, like a Honda is supposed to

 

Hi Stefan, my philosophy is if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Unless you have a specific problem with the engine all I'd do would be a good service, plugs, oil, filter, coolant flush and change. Maybe check the valve clearances and definitely give the carbs a good clean and balance.

These engines can cover huge mileages, my bike has done over 50,000 miles, when I took the head off a while back there was no sign of wear

As for the cam-chain and tensioner, they all rattle to a degree, if you want to change them use a Honda tensioner and a DID split-link chain. There are detailed instructions in the 'How Too' section.

As for the rest it's just good maintenance, which from the sound of it, you're more than capable of doing. These bikes are easy to work on, especially if you still have the centre stand. I use non OEM parts, Honda stuff is really expensive, but for stuff like the gaskets and seals you mention I would be inclined to use Mr Honda's

Any questions just ask, you know how it is on here, all the guys on here will be happy to give advice and moral support

 

Definetly E-bay is your friend. Some things to peel an eyeball for on any of the older bikes...

First thing get a stand for the rear, doesn't need to be a super-uber, even the cheap
ones will do the job. But get something, trust me on this. ;-)

Check the fork seals, look for signs of 'weep' around the seals. Pop the caps and
change the fork fluid. Don't need to spend a lot of time here, if there are no obvious
issues.

Do a medium, over-haul on the brakes, i.e. if the seals/pads are all fine, ignore
them. However, definetly swap the fluid, and re-pack the hanger pins. Give the lines
a once-over for cracks/brittle (consider the SS upgade, at some point, great bang for
buck, there).

Moving on, check the steering-head bearings for any free-play, another cheap
upgrade...go to rollers for the stem bearings.

Inspect the entire wiring harness. Look for frayed/worn/rubs etc. Grab a can of
contact-cleaner and di-electric grease. Pull each connector, in turn and clean/pack
them after an inspection looking for frays/burnt-pins/melted-warped plastic. If you
find any bad/marginal connectors, check what-ever they connected to, for any possible
issues. Double eyeballs on the r/r, these are a known issue. Don't neglect inspecting
the switches, either. Fix/re-run any botched previous modifications to the harness.
The harness is a crucial, oft-neglected system and cheap on the pocket-book, if you
do this one. Throw a couple of extra fuses under the seat, while you're there.

Scope out all of the vacume lines and various hoses, looking for the usual suspects.

Probably need a new fuel filter, just for the piece of mind. You might drain the tank,
pull the petcock and clean the screens on it. Pour about a quart of kerosene in the
tank, swish and drain to get rid of any accumulated sediment.

If the bike is running decent leave the bottom-end alone. Like Hawkwind says, just
ride it. You sound like you should know better than to have dropped your money on
a lemon. So you should be fine there.

The cct should be monitored, there is a chance it's not doing it's job. A little rattle
at lower rpm's is ok, but it should be more 'whirr' than bb rattle. If it gets any louder,
that'll be a sign.

Even if it's running pretty smoothly, you might consider running some Seafoam through
the system. Eliminating any varnish in the carbs, is never a bad thing. If you're getting
any stumbles/hesitation, idling or pulling, you might go ahead and do a good cleaning
on the carbs.

Pretty much, everything I've suggested here is mostly labor-cost not parts/supplys.
In other words, low cost if you have the time.

I hope this gives you a few directions to go, Ern

 

Will do, been thinking about one, never had one so what am I looking for, I guess the cheapest ones will probably buckle under the weight of the heavy bike?

Seals are dry, no residue on the inner or outer fork legs... so I'll just leave them alone
And do I just empty them and refill, or do I empty them, flush them and then refill?

Pads are fine for now, calipers are clean and dry; will leave them as they are too then... will just flush 'em with clean fluid.
I already have ss brake and clutch lines, I think it came with the mx bars

Well, there is no play, so might consider this later on... what benefit do I have from roller bearing as opposed to standard bearings?

The loom has been modded with no or little attention to detail... it's one ugly pos.
I'm actually considering replacing it with one from a salvage yard.

I don't know if I can get kerosene here, any alternatives?
I'll clean the petcock, and then about a fuel filter; there is no fuel filter, leave it as is or is it wise to buy one of those universal see-through ones?

Unfortunately, there are one or more small oil leaks, not a whole lot, but enough to make the wrapped primary pipes smoke like they're on fire when I stop the bike... I think I'll change the oil pan gasket, and cam cover gasket + grommets.
Any more gaskets or seals that are prone to leak?

What does cct stand for? (I guess it's the timing chain or tensioner?)
It did wirr a little when I picked it up, enough to notice but not enough to scare me away; now it has a bb rattle to it, got louder since I got it.

I can't get seafoam here (I'm in Holland), no US seller will ship abroad, and the nearest retailer is in the UK... which will not ship to the mainland, and there are no mainland retailers.

Thanks a lot Ern, great help!

 

Kerosene is what we call parrafin in the uk not sure about Holland tho

Rob

 

As far as stands go, I doubt your bike tops 225 kilos. Use your judgement, if it
looks flimsy, keep looking. But, it's a pretty simple device (hard to really screw it up).

If you pull the caps and springs, you can use a turkey-bastor and hose or a vacume pump, to suck out the fluid, then top it off with fresh. Re-install springs and caps.
Just be sure to support the front of the bike, or it will fall to it's knees when you pull the caps. I use the rear-stand and a floor-jack under the headers.

Excellent news on the brakes! I would still double check that the boots for the hanger-pins are full of grease. Other-wise sounds like a flush and move on.

Main advantage to roller-bearings (for ANY aplication) is better dissipation of load (more bearing surface-area) and longevity (due to previous). For the stunters this is a must have mod (wheelies are hard on the steering head). For the rest of us, just
never having to look at them again.

Even if you replace the entire harness, take the time as you assemble it to pack the connectors with di-electric grease. It will efectively halt all corrosion and degradation to the harness.

Kerosene is what we call it here, but I'm basically refering to a low-flash point solvent. Gasoline should NEVER be used for anything but as a FUEL, never as a shop-supply. I like my eye-brows, etc. ;-)

Best bet on the leaks, poer-wash the engine, or use some of the spray-on engine cleaner. Once it's all minty fresh looking, a few miles on the road will make it easy to spot the leak points. Proceed from there...

Yes CCT/cct is Cam-Chain Tensioner. If it IS getting louder, You should definetly investigate and pin-point the problem. You might be able to fix it, you might need to replace it, either is a relatively, inexpensive fix. Wait too long and you have aluminum shavings in the block from the cam-chain rubbing the cases.

Seafoam is a branded carb/injector additive cleaner. I'm betting you have something similar. Ask at your local auto/bike parts dealer, that's why we support them with our local dollars, when we can.

Goos luck and have FUN! Ern

 

I've only ever fully rebuilt the front forks, but I think there may be a drain plug at the bottom of fork lowers? I think you also have an air valve at the top of your forks?

As for engine oil leaks, I'd start looking at the cam covers and work your way down.

Watch out for snapping the header studs, if you have to take the exhaust off. (I speak from bitter experience).

CCT stands for 'cam chain tensioner'.

 

If you can't find kerosene/parifin, diesel oil is almost identical in its properties and will work just as well. Both will absorb water just as well for flushing.