Carb synch sounds right. I had knocking problem little while after I got my 87five months ago. I had purchased carb synchronizer for my another project bike (1978 CB750F), so it became handy. Then, 1000F's was way off. Taking 15 to 20 mins. adjustment, annoying knocking was gone. [/align]

 

MarkR, was that just the supply of parts, or parts and fitting? Still not too bad... over $500 I would have started fretting.

I brought this thing with the mind that I'll probably have to spend up $1500 over the next 6 months to get it up to scratch. I've looked around at the prices of thesethesemodel CBRF'sand I got it for around $1500 cheaper than average price I've seen.

Is syncing the carbs hard? I think I might just leave it to a mechanic along with valve clearance checks.

 

I found the Valve Clearance hard without the tool. Even with the tool I found it difficult, but I have ham fists.

The Synchro isn't hard, just time consuming.

 

I grabbed my old MP3 and tried to make a recording of the sound the chain makes if I spin the back wheel by hand. I uploaded the audio file here:

http://users.tpg.com.au/cgboehm/chain.wav

I spin the wheel 5 times in the sound clip.First two are with the recorder near the front sprocket, the 3rd time at the back sprocket, then the last two back up the front.

Are chains meant to be this loud and chunky?The recording doesn't do justice to the actual sound... and I'm spinning the wheel pretty hard and fast but it is very similar to the noise I'm hearing as I take off and given the volume of it I rekon I could hear it over the motor at low revs if this is in fact the noise I'm hearing.

The chain seems to be fairly well adjusted and the adjuster at the back looks to be at the inner mark, nowhere near the replace mark.

If I can nail it as the noise I'll be a bit more relieved... $400 isn't a huge amount to be forking out, unlike a new clutch or a stuffed gearbox! Plus hopefully I won't be doing a huge amount of damage if I ride it around a bit longer before fixing.

I'd also like to take this opportunity to say a huge thanks to you guys for answering all my newbie questions and taking the time to respond. You can't imagine how appreciated it is!! I shifted over to the Riverland in SA from my home town of Port Pirie, about 340km from here... leaving all my old friends and bike buddies from the old touring club, so I don't have the support anymore with mechanical things like all this. But I guess that's the beauty of the internet and forums like this... it's really one great big bike club!!

 

Sounds like the chain needs to be lubed, but it might be the recording doing that.

Also, $400 could get you a new clutch (if you install it yourself) and a new chain, and maybe sprockets.

Damn I wish I had room to work on my bike

 

It sounds as if you do indeed have a problem. If you are sure that the rear wheel is straight and the chain is not binding up somewhere, then it does sound like its time to replace the chain and sprockets. It's not really that expensive to do, I bought premium parts and had them installed for less than 250.00 US.

 

It's hard to say with out being there but it does sound like the chain could use lubing and tighting. Two inches sounds loose. Think of this, the chain should be tightened until the slack is out but it is not tight. In other words it is not under anytention but itdoesn't haveslack either. It may be that you have to much slop and it is slapping the swing arm and making the noise you hear. When properly adjusted you should have about 1\2 inch up and 1/2 inch down play.

When you have the rear wheel loose for chain adjusting you can also do a quick chain ware test. Whit the wheel in the most forward position, check the chain for side play.A new chain has very little side play and as a chain wares the play increases to the point where you can actually hear it. When they get real loose you are taking the chance of breaking it.

 

Thanks for the response guys. I'm going to be pulling the wheels off in a couple days to take them in for new tyres... when I put it back together I'll tension the chain accordingly and give it a lube and see if that helps. I can't see the front sprocket so can't tell what condition the teeth are in, rear one appears to be ok.

The chain is pretty black dirty looking... suppose it's normal considering grease is a dust magnet and it's only cm's away from the road. Are you suppose to try and clean them? Or just add more chain lube?

 

Originally equipped chain is o-ring chain. I usually use WD40 to clean, and apply chain lube for o-ring chain or sometimes cheat with white grease. Actually I like white grease better, because it doesn't splash much and not sticky like chain lube. Sticky lube invites more dust.

 

keep this going, i have the same problem on my bike, like a tock tock noise under weight pull, then goes away after, engine runs good, just when its under load do i hear it.