I give up!
#11
03-18-2010, 09:38 AM
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#12
03-18-2010, 07:17 PM
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Carb issues can be frustrating and expensive. I know...been there, done it. When I bought my bike, guy let me test ride it first. Rolling the throttle back did nothing...bike went nowhere. I asked him about it, he said he never noticed, all seemed good after he changed the needle and seats.
I bought the bike, and brought it to the local Honda dealership, who had an older mechanic who worked on these when they were new. He told me he found the previous owner had rebuilt the carbs and left the old o-rings in and just added the new ones over top. He also suggested new sliders. So basically he rebuilt all 4, parts were about $450, labor $400, synced them up, and what a difference. (when you rebuild them right. )
I was lucky to find a mechanic willing to work on it, and the parts. I had to wait 2 months for them to find the last gasket kit. This guy was even willing to replace the ACG chain on my '87, which I would up selling before I got involved.
It's a tough call to make, but in end you have to be happy, and I guess if you're not ridin' you aint
I hope it all works out for ya.
I bought the bike, and brought it to the local Honda dealership, who had an older mechanic who worked on these when they were new. He told me he found the previous owner had rebuilt the carbs and left the old o-rings in and just added the new ones over top. He also suggested new sliders. So basically he rebuilt all 4, parts were about $450, labor $400, synced them up, and what a difference. (when you rebuild them right. )
I was lucky to find a mechanic willing to work on it, and the parts. I had to wait 2 months for them to find the last gasket kit. This guy was even willing to replace the ACG chain on my '87, which I would up selling before I got involved.
It's a tough call to make, but in end you have to be happy, and I guess if you're not ridin' you aint
I hope it all works out for ya.I'd fix your bike for you if i lived that side of the pond, and i'd be able to give up my day job
Gaz
#13
03-23-2010, 07:41 PM
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Dont give up!
Sup guys.. Thanks for all the responses I've received on this, and sorry its taken me a few days to reply. Just been super frustrated and walked away from everything cbr/motorcycle related for a couple days.
Now for the good news, after posting this & looking @ the words "I GIVE UP"
made me feel like a big fat quitter. My momma raised me to never give up. So I went back into the garage w the motto I'M GOING TO FIGURE THIS OUT!!!
Let me say this.. the Haynes manual is an ok reference, but I almost think you will do more damage following it then just taking advice from it. Its not the first time its been either confusing, wrong, or plain doesn't make sense. Let me explain....
I've been following the Haynes manual to the tee, and sometimes cross referencing w the Honda Repair Manual (HRM) or here on CBRF. Bad mistake! My advice to any fellow DIY, Shade Tree mechanics like myself. Follow the Honda Repair Manual for SPECS, Use the Haynes manual for ideas on how to do the work or even better, come ask the fellas (or ladies) here at CBRF.
The issue was flooding, and major flooding at that. So I went and pulled the carbs again. drained and measured the level of each bowl, and seemed consistent there. Flipped the carbs over and blew through the fuel lines and they were closed and not leaking. canceling out a leaking valve, pulled the bowl covers and tested to see if any of the floats seem to be sticking... NOPE.
So I pull out the trusty HRM to read what was spec'd for the float levels. and to my amazement its spec'd to .54inch compared to the .37inch spec'd in the haynes manual (which I followed the Haynes manual from the start, never cross referencing the HRM, my mistake) and in the world of 'thousands of an inch' thats light years apart! right? Slapped the carbs back on and she now runs, fires on command, and doesnt barf fuel out like a drunk sorority girl... Yet I am still having a tad bit of trouble to get her to fire w/o any thottle while shes warm.. My conclusion is my pilot screws need a bit of adjusting, i'll save that for another post.
ok, to make a LOONG post shorter.. remember to always take everything with a grain of salt, cross reference your sources, don't go against your instinct & lastly NEVER give up!
Now for the good news, after posting this & looking @ the words "I GIVE UP"
made me feel like a big fat quitter. My momma raised me to never give up. So I went back into the garage w the motto I'M GOING TO FIGURE THIS OUT!!!
Let me say this.. the Haynes manual is an ok reference, but I almost think you will do more damage following it then just taking advice from it. Its not the first time its been either confusing, wrong, or plain doesn't make sense. Let me explain....
I've been following the Haynes manual to the tee, and sometimes cross referencing w the Honda Repair Manual (HRM) or here on CBRF. Bad mistake! My advice to any fellow DIY, Shade Tree mechanics like myself. Follow the Honda Repair Manual for SPECS, Use the Haynes manual for ideas on how to do the work or even better, come ask the fellas (or ladies) here at CBRF.
The issue was flooding, and major flooding at that. So I went and pulled the carbs again. drained and measured the level of each bowl, and seemed consistent there. Flipped the carbs over and blew through the fuel lines and they were closed and not leaking. canceling out a leaking valve, pulled the bowl covers and tested to see if any of the floats seem to be sticking... NOPE.
So I pull out the trusty HRM to read what was spec'd for the float levels. and to my amazement its spec'd to .54inch compared to the .37inch spec'd in the haynes manual (which I followed the Haynes manual from the start, never cross referencing the HRM, my mistake) and in the world of 'thousands of an inch' thats light years apart! right? Slapped the carbs back on and she now runs, fires on command, and doesnt barf fuel out like a drunk sorority girl... Yet I am still having a tad bit of trouble to get her to fire w/o any thottle while shes warm.. My conclusion is my pilot screws need a bit of adjusting, i'll save that for another post.
ok, to make a LOONG post shorter.. remember to always take everything with a grain of salt, cross reference your sources, don't go against your instinct & lastly NEVER give up!
Last edited by ebinz88cane; 03-23-2010 at 07:47 PM.
#14
03-23-2010, 08:17 PM
Administrator - Retired
I'm glad to hear you gave it another shot, man. I know how frustrating cars/trucks/bikes can be. I've spent weeks on the chit. Taking a huge hammer to random stuff seems to help a little sometimes...LOL.. (just remember safety glasses and good gloves... 
)
I think a little play with the mix screws and a carb sync may be all you need.
As far as Haynes manuals go.... I've had some problems with them through the years, too. I usually keep them on hand for reference, but by themselves they've screwed me a few times. Wrong torque specs, and even a picture reference of a motor that I'd never seen before....LOL..
Keep the faith, bro!
)I think a little play with the mix screws and a carb sync may be all you need.
As far as Haynes manuals go.... I've had some problems with them through the years, too. I usually keep them on hand for reference, but by themselves they've screwed me a few times. Wrong torque specs, and even a picture reference of a motor that I'd never seen before....LOL..
Keep the faith, bro!
#15
03-23-2010, 08:56 PM
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#16
03-23-2010, 09:25 PM
Senior Member
ebinz. That's great mate and your mum was spot on. It would have been a real shame to get rid of such a good bike for something like that.
Can you imagine what you'd have felt like if you ever had a nostalgia moment and checked the forum after selling, only to find some lucky sod raving about how they picked up this bike for a song off some poor guy.... It'd go like this: "yeah, I just checked the specs and adjusted the float levels. She runs great guys"..That would really **** me!
Good advice for the rest of us about the use of two manuals. I probably wouldn't have thought of that and just would have gone with the Haynes.
Bloody great mate!
. It would have been a real shame to get rid of such a good bike for something like that. Can you imagine what you'd have felt like if you ever had a nostalgia moment and checked the forum after selling, only to find some lucky sod raving about how they picked up this bike for a song off some poor guy.... It'd go like this: "yeah, I just checked the specs and adjusted the float levels. She runs great guys"..That would really **** me!
Good advice for the rest of us about the use of two manuals. I probably wouldn't have thought of that and just would have gone with the Haynes.
Bloody great mate!
#17
03-23-2010, 09:34 PM
#18
03-24-2010, 12:06 AM
EXCELLENT NEWS EBINSQUEEZER
Summer's here, time to ride.
I knew it had to be something fairly easy............
Manuals - pffft ! they say you can't replace the starter clutch/damper without removing the engine, and we know that's bull.
Now we just need to find out how to do a primary chain with the engine in place and I'll be a happy bunny !
Summer's here, time to ride.
I knew it had to be something fairly easy............
Manuals - pffft ! they say you can't replace the starter clutch/damper without removing the engine, and we know that's bull.
Now we just need to find out how to do a primary chain with the engine in place and I'll be a happy bunny !
#19
03-24-2010, 01:07 PM
Senior Member & tensioner mod inventor ROTM WINNER FEB 2013
I'm so happy to hear your news Ebinz. Excellent, super, marvelous, smashing!!!!
ONe thing I've always kept in mind to keep me going when things seem stacked against me is that some human assembled this, so some human (me) can disassemble it, fix it and put it back together. Always works, but I don't always get the exact result I want every time. Patience is the answer and sometimes you have to drag that out from the bowels of the earth to succeed.
I salute your courage, determination and manly attitude. A big lesson to us all indeed.
I have a challenge to overcome...... a knocking big end and I'm going to think of you this weekend when I'm tearing my engine out again. woe could be me..... but not now you've sorted your problem out...... gritted teeth at the ready!
ONe thing I've always kept in mind to keep me going when things seem stacked against me is that some human assembled this, so some human (me) can disassemble it, fix it and put it back together. Always works, but I don't always get the exact result I want every time. Patience is the answer and sometimes you have to drag that out from the bowels of the earth to succeed.
I salute your courage, determination and manly attitude. A big lesson to us all indeed.
I have a challenge to overcome...... a knocking big end and I'm going to think of you this weekend when I'm tearing my engine out again. woe could be me..... but not now you've sorted your problem out...... gritted teeth at the ready!
#20
03-24-2010, 01:23 PM
Senior Member & tensioner mod inventor ROTM WINNER FEB 2013
EXCELLENT NEWS EBINSQUEEZER
Summer's here, time to ride.
I knew it had to be something fairly easy............
Manuals - pffft ! they say you can't replace the starter clutch/damper without removing the engine, and we know that's bull.
Now we just need to find out how to do a primary chain with the engine in place and I'll be a happy bunny !
Summer's here, time to ride.
I knew it had to be something fairly easy............
Manuals - pffft ! they say you can't replace the starter clutch/damper without removing the engine, and we know that's bull.
Now we just need to find out how to do a primary chain with the engine in place and I'll be a happy bunny !
give it up man. You can't change your alternator chain without taking the engine out and performing surgery. There are limits to human achievement I'm sorry to have to say. Ya know I'm right.
Give up and plan your excavation. I'll send you a parts list if you need it.
I'll be doing the other half of my 'how to strip your engine down' this weekend with the help of my old man on the camera so I'll be posting up a big, big fat manual on the subject as soon as it's done and I've had time to put it all down. You will be able to throw your Haynes away when I've finished and I'll be cross referencing the HRM throughout the operation.
I'm well pissed off about it but I've done 3552 miles in the last 2.5 months since replacing the alternator chain and all the other bits in there and now I've been let down by something else. After several serious spanking sessions up to and over 155 MPH it seems that I missed out on replacing parts that I obviously should have done at the time so it's my own fault.
Now where did I put my manly determination?
