horrible milage+ high rev
#12
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The leak was in/on the gas line close to the tank. Spotted a drip between the tank and the hose. The fix was just to use a proper screw clamp (dunno the proper term) in stead of the original clamp on the mounting point of the hose/fuel line.
I am still a bit baffled on the high rev. Wierd that when the bike/engine is hot, it is higher on the rev. than when its cold.
I appologize for my horrible english when it comes to tecnical terms.
I have taken pictures, but not uploaded yet due to emence amount of stress due to just gotten my 1. new born son home from hospital. I have about 5 min. of online work pr. day
I am still a bit baffled on the high rev. Wierd that when the bike/engine is hot, it is higher on the rev. than when its cold.
I appologize for my horrible english when it comes to tecnical terms.
I have taken pictures, but not uploaded yet due to emence amount of stress due to just gotten my 1. new born son home from hospital. I have about 5 min. of online work pr. day
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#13
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Problem #2
Assuming:
Carbs are clean
Throttle and Choke cable/bar are moving freely and in their full span.
Back to basics require us to first make sure your idle speed is actually set right. So get her hot (at least half way up the gauge) and turn the **** until your idling at 1500 RPM.
Do not set the idle cold. Do not set the idle warm. There is a good chance your previous owner did. If so it can cause problem two easily.
Report back if that doesn't solve problem two. The bike is going to like being cold less this way but not to worry. The 1000F engine warms up fast and stays very warm. It LIKES hot. Your fan won't even kick on typically until your near the red.
Assuming:
Carbs are clean
Throttle and Choke cable/bar are moving freely and in their full span.
Back to basics require us to first make sure your idle speed is actually set right. So get her hot (at least half way up the gauge) and turn the **** until your idling at 1500 RPM.
Do not set the idle cold. Do not set the idle warm. There is a good chance your previous owner did. If so it can cause problem two easily.
Report back if that doesn't solve problem two. The bike is going to like being cold less this way but not to worry. The 1000F engine warms up fast and stays very warm. It LIKES hot. Your fan won't even kick on typically until your near the red.
Last edited by Fat Man; 05-11-2011 at 05:41 PM.
#14
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Thanx alot man!
Iwill try this tomorrow, sounds plausible. As the rev gets higher when the bike turns hot.
Another q. about the heat. The bike gets beond red on the hotto meter
when I ride it below 50 mph. How can I check if the waterpump is working?
I opened the watercap, and it seems it is on top of the pump. Itried to turn the starter, with the on/off button in "off" position, and the pump seem to be at a stand still. Should the pump turn when the starter turns?
The system has pleny of water, it seems.
Thanx again guys for checking on me. Sorry about no pic. yet.
Iwill try this tomorrow, sounds plausible. As the rev gets higher when the bike turns hot.
Another q. about the heat. The bike gets beond red on the hotto meter
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I opened the watercap, and it seems it is on top of the pump. Itried to turn the starter, with the on/off button in "off" position, and the pump seem to be at a stand still. Should the pump turn when the starter turns?
The system has pleny of water, it seems.
Thanx again guys for checking on me. Sorry about no pic. yet.
#15
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You won't see coolant moving until the engine warms up enough for the thermostat to open. Most likely you already know this, but you should NOT remove the radiator cap from a hot engine. I saw two guys hauled away in an ambulance with severe scalds on their faces after doing just that at a stock car race.
Check the fan first. Let the engine warm up in your driveway. If the fan doesn't come on before your gauge is beyond the red you've found your problem. Mine comes on when the gauge hits about the half-way point.
Check the fan first. Let the engine warm up in your driveway. If the fan doesn't come on before your gauge is beyond the red you've found your problem. Mine comes on when the gauge hits about the half-way point.
#16
Join Date: Aug 2008
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Yeah one of my bikes the fan on at a tick past half the other a bit further 2 or 3 ticks say.
The latter the hotter running one (1993) I put a manual fan switch on
other thing you might want to check is the choke operation in relation to the revving
issue ....might be it's staying closed enough suppress dropping down to normal idle
in a timely manner.
The latter the hotter running one (1993) I put a manual fan switch on
other thing you might want to check is the choke operation in relation to the revving
issue ....might be it's staying closed enough suppress dropping down to normal idle
in a timely manner.
#17
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Thanx again guys.
I suspect the fan, and will troubbleshoot it during the week end.
I believe the choke is working fine. When I start it up, with choke, it climbs in rev after a short while. When I retard the choke, the rev quickly falls down to about 1200 rpm.
Are there any bells ringing on the normal idle rev when cold, but high idle rev when hot?
Will try and fine tune the idle when in between cold and hot, but have tried to lower it, but then it sufficates next time I start her up cold.
I suspect the fan, and will troubbleshoot it during the week end.
I believe the choke is working fine. When I start it up, with choke, it climbs in rev after a short while. When I retard the choke, the rev quickly falls down to about 1200 rpm.
Are there any bells ringing on the normal idle rev when cold, but high idle rev when hot?
Will try and fine tune the idle when in between cold and hot, but have tried to lower it, but then it sufficates next time I start her up cold.
#19
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Well, the fan is def. not working, so this is probably the cause of the heating.
I spottet a small oil/fuel leak on the side of the cylinderhead, quite far up. It leaks from a round rubber gasket thingy. Will take a picture of it for you guys to see.
The rev thing is still a bit of an enigma. The bike acts normal when cold, but "idles" at 4000 when warm. Iguess I need to let the local mecanics take a look at it. Get some diagnostics from them.
I spottet a small oil/fuel leak on the side of the cylinderhead, quite far up. It leaks from a round rubber gasket thingy. Will take a picture of it for you guys to see.
The rev thing is still a bit of an enigma. The bike acts normal when cold, but "idles" at 4000 when warm. Iguess I need to let the local mecanics take a look at it. Get some diagnostics from them.
#20
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Hey:
Carbs out of Sync and balance will cause the high idle as well at higher operating temps. If all else checks out that the previous Advice Gurus have given you look in that direction, but not before following the previous advice 1st. As you may have to have a shop do this for you unless you have the proper gauges and tools to do it. Good Luck on your trouble shooting.
Dub
Carbs out of Sync and balance will cause the high idle as well at higher operating temps. If all else checks out that the previous Advice Gurus have given you look in that direction, but not before following the previous advice 1st. As you may have to have a shop do this for you unless you have the proper gauges and tools to do it. Good Luck on your trouble shooting.
Dub