Now I'm mightly confused ... these kits have 2 bulbs, 2 ballasts, wiring harness and all fixings. Surely that's enough kit for both lights to have hi and low beam or is it one bulb for high and one bulb for low with HID kits?

Feeling extremely thick at the moment

 

You are probably right. They might just not show a second harness or something.

 

Why hell Chippy,
don't be feeling blue,
your gonna get educated
by TimBucTwo. LOL

OK, first off, Headlights are Parabolic in shape.
A parabola is formed by drawing a straight line and than placing a fixed point on one side of it. The parabola is formed by plotting a curve of points equidistant from both the line and fixed point. The fixed point is call the focal point. In doing so light running parallel (or radio waves) will reflect off a shinny surfaced parabola and travel to the focal point. This application is used in radar or satellite dishes or telescopes.

Light emitted from the focal point will be reflected off the shinny parabola surface and run parallel outward.

The hi-beam element is located at the focal point and the low beam is at a point where the light coming off the element is scattered downward.

Now back to the kit CorruptFile posted kit link, it has two bulbs and says Hi-Low kit. It contains two bulbs, 1-Hi and 1-Low. There aren't any elements in those bulbs, just excited gas. Therefore you can't switch form Hi to Low in a single bulb with that kit. Is used in an application where there are two reflectors, one for HI and one for Low. That's why there are two ballasts, one for Hi and one for Low depending on what the driver energizes. That kit for a car would require one kit for the right side of the vehicle and one for the left side.



Above you can see that d=d. The vortex point is the shortest distance (d). In the real world, d can run indefinitely for ever and ever with the sides of the parabola almost approaching two parallel lines but never achieving it.




I had to do it, just had to. LOL

 

That's not exactly correct. You are right that there is no brightness difference in HIDs for Hi and Lo, but these bulbs do have an analogous function. In 'proper' HIDs, Hi and Lo is controlled by a movable cut off (or having 2 seperate bulbs as you pointed out). Hi beams are just the cutoff higher, so you see father down the road. These bulbs I posted have a motor in them that moves the bulb in the metal chassis, creating a different location of the cutoff. I have these in my bike, and they do work.


This doesn't really show the difference in cutoff, but there is one over a distance.

 

Thanks guys, I now understand.

It's always good to learn something new everyday and I have today.

 

I knew that some HID's had a motor but didn't look close enough at the photos in your link. The big base would have told the story. Also, in the second photo, it shows shielding at 6:00 that would send light only upward to be reflected downward for Low beam. It looks like its parked in Low beam and when it gets pull toward the base its in the Hi mode where some of the reflector is cut away for a brighter Hi. Thanks for clearing that up. $45 to convert is cheap considering the price to replace with conventional bulbs. Now you got me thinking.

Edit: One other thing, Those bulbs have a globe in the center where the glowing gas is located and that is what is moved to adjust the light output. I bought my Stratoliner from a guy who put HID in the HI socket. Its filament or chamber if you will, is the entire length of the bulb. Yamaha does funny things with bulb bases so I can't upgrade the Low, but I would love to fix that also. Thanks for the info and link CorruptFile.

 

Chippy, in simple terms, the kit you're looking at is the correct one for the 1000f. Two bulbs, both able to provide high and low beam by means of solenoid activation within the lamp base. They are H4 compatible.

I've just did mine a week or so ago and as this is my second HID install I spent a lot more time rearranging the wiring harness and tidying up securely than I did last time.
I'll see if I can get some pictures up to assist.
As everyone else says, it's a very worthwhile upgrade, especially if you ride frequently at night, especially in winter time.
Go for the 4300K. Even this temperature light will produce daylight at night but without looking blue/purple. Any higher and you're actually not getting a decent light on the road. Also worth remembering that a lower Kelvin value will give better illumination in fog as the wavelength is longer and better able to penetrate the water droplets in the air without being reflected back at you and randomly scattered. If you've ridden in fog at night you'll know how important this is.

 

Thank you Henry, I will keep everything you have stated in mind when I purchase the kit. I know what you mean about the fog.

Pictures of your install would be appreciated. I have the front end of the bike totally stripped down at the moment so it seems the perfect time to do it.

Thanks for all the input guys I really do appreciate all of it...and I have learnt something which is always a bonus and a pleasure.

 

Hi, found my post from Oct 2010. Hope it helps.

I installed the ballasts etc between the headlight and clocks, using the framework to zip tie it all secure.
My kit has 2 bi-xenon bulbs both acting as dip and main beam. BIG improvement over the stock items.
I removed the following to install the kit which took about 2 & 1/2 hours - screen, infill above clocks, clocks, infill panel, small access panel above front mudguard.
All the connectors etc are weather resistant so can be located just about anywhere.
Got mine from 'carlights' but there are numerous suppliers on fleabay.
Look up the thread HID conversions for more info.

Hope this helps.

 

Hi,

Just found the photos of my HID lamps showing the light levels.

https://cbrforum.com/forum/attachmen...obes-hid-1-jpg

Twin low and High beam.