use a dremel with a metal cutting blade in it and cut the flange on two opposing sides to give a pair of flat faces to use an open spanner on.

 

Irwin Kit - is what I have out in the garage
with a long breaker bar and you "work" the
bite into the head a bit then go for it - never
failed me yet

 

you could probably get it with some good vice grips and some hella strong hand strength, i actually got a coupe head studs off a chevy 350 at a junkyard with vice grips

 

Another option could be to drill the head of the bolt with a drill slightly bigger than the bolt diameter to remove the head completely. Remove the cover in question then you should be able to attack the bolt shank exposed with a vice grip or similar as it should not be too tight any more as it will have no tension on it .Maybe if it is a spray of ice in a can would aid removal.

As a matter of interest Kiwi TK and myself are from a town called Waverley 50 km north of Wanganui (no H) (Kiwis will get that one) in the lower North Island

 

First choice for me would definitely be the Metrinch option, no further damage to the head of the bolt so if it doesn't work all the other options are still available. Once you start hacking at it, eventually you'll run out of metal

 

+1 ^^
Give the metrinch a go. I have a set of spanners and sockets. Have had them for about 20 years and they have stood the test of time. Rounded nuts and bolts have never been a problem.

 

Thanks everyone. I have ordered a set of metrinch sockets so they'll be here in a little while. The bike is off the road for winter at the moment so no need to rush. Sometimes its good to not be in a rush..

So in the meantime I'll keep busy reinforcing some slightly weakened parts of the fairing with JB-Weld.

kiwi TK & JK: ha, yes. Some of my mail does a bit of a wander through the Waverley you're referring to before it gets to me!

Regards
Kevin.

 

Got my metrinch sockets today. Slapped the 10mm one on and undid the offending item with no problems at all. I am now a metrinch convert.

Found out that the bolts are tight to undo because they are UBS. I had not heard of that before, but apparently:

"UBS is Uniform Bearing Surface. The flanged portion of the bolt head
is dished at about 5-degrees so it flattens when the bolt is torqued,
providing a locking function. Same idea as a convex spring washer but
much stronger".

Regards
Kevin.

 

Awesome stuff.
After I discovered Metrinch 20 years ago I have never been without them. Glad to hear they did the job.
Cheers
Damian

 

Are those a one-use type of fastener?