Interesting that you have exactly the same phenomen at 80% full rpm. By changin to 10-50 oil instead of 20-50, it will probably be thinner in the warm up phase which could perhaps help, but since it seems to come with age like on your bike this points more to a worn issue. I'm still running on my first oil fill since I've only used the bike for a few weeks.

I'll still try the oil change, but would now almost be surpriced if that helps after getting your comment. Yes, why not document the clutch rebuild on this web site.

 

The oil I have used all the time is Castrol GPS 15W-50. I just got back from a ride, tried to slip the clutch when engine was cold, but couldn't make it. I made couple of high accelerations when the engine was still cold, but the clutch worked just perfect. Damn. Does your clutch slip every time you try it running cold? I'm still guessing (and hoping) it's just because of the oil, as they really have quite a crucial effect on how the clutch performs.

 

I dont know if it slips every time when not perfectly warm since I avoid to load it to soon. One should not need to drive about 20 km before bottoming it out, and I have the genuine feeling that it slips every time within the first 5 to 10 km if it is gunned. For normal hard but not full acceleration it never slips even during warm up. Bad to hear that a well reputated oil like GPS 15-50 doesn't fix it. I 'm almost convinced after hearing this that the clutch needs service and will order new parts tonight. Since I havent used the bike previously, and the seller who used it since -04 never replaced the clutch, I'll go for a new one so I know that it is OK in the long run. My bike has about 100 000 km on the odometer and clutch plates are ment to be replaced from time to time.

Another reason that I want the clutch to be in perfect order is the planned exhaust change that may give 10 more ponnies and not making clutch life easier. I'll also order the 15% harder clutch springs since the hyudralic engager makes it easy to release anyway compared to many other bikes. New exhaust system is advertised to come in two weeks from now.

 

I can run faster on a 600 than this.

Best beginner bike is an EX-500 or on the big end, an SV-650... or even a cruiser. In the category you're talking it'll be the rider, not the bike. These are NOT beginner bikes for all of the reasons stated. This is an old, old, OLD subject in the biking community and the answer won't change, except to say that the newer 600's breaking 100 HP at the rear wheel are all the more reason to stay away from them as starter bikes.

Riding any motorcycle is playing with fire. Riding one well and wearing the proper gear at all times gives you a fighting chance. Trying to learn on something too big sets a big disadvantage to the learning curve. Get a smaller one and become a better rider sooner. Just my unwavering opinion on this subject.

 

Yep, GPS 15W-50 is great oil and should work very well on these bikes. I'll test my bikes clutch more and report if it slips anymore. Like I said it only happened once for me, I start to worry only if it happens again. I'm planning that I open the clutch anyway and check all plates, my bike's been driven for 68 000km now and I'm quite sure the clutch is still original.

Good point on that exhaust change. I actually never thought that changing it would stress the clutch more, but it certainly does, so it's wise move from you to replace the clutch. Waiting to hear your experiences from that new exhaust!

 

On the way home after work I watched for the slip tendency more carefully trying to analyse what happens. I gave full throttle on second gear at an early stage of driving, where it use to slip. The slip, or rather no more forward power, came as expected, but this was when the rev passed well above 11 k and then the rpm then dropped to about 9 k. I then gave full throttle further on thrue all gears and noted how really fast one reach more than 11 k up to 12 k on all gears except 5 and 6. This old thing pulls really hard and fast on lower gears. Maybe we have fooled ourself and this phenomen is just simple over-rev on lower gears. It should have been more prone to slip on higher gears since there also is a lot of wind resistance to overcome at high speeds, but on the other hand it was more warmed up after the initial low gear blast. I spent about one more hour of hard pulling and did not noted any slip tendency at any time. I'll still change the clutch, due to the next tuning phase and as a preventive action, but I am not so sure that i really slips as I beleived. It may have been high rpm cut out by the ECU.

 

Interesting points. I myself too spent couple of hours driving freeway back and forth and tried some full throttle accelerations up to 6th gear (pushed it around red-line 10,500rpm), but it worked just perfect. So the slip still remained one-time experience for me, but it definitely was a clutch slip. If it doesn't happen anymore, I'll leave it as a mystery not resolved. If you're changing the clutch plates anyway, could you report how worn those old plates were? Just interested...

I have tried couple of times that high rpm cut-out, and what I remember it happens around 12,000rpm. The engine produces its highest power & torque between 9k and 10k rpm (highest probability for clutch-slipping), so it's really possible that we fooled ourselves and it was just that cut-out.

Ps. Just great weather here now, +15C, no wind at all and sun is shining, no need for sub-artic driving gear anymore!

 

To R1000: What kind of exhaust system have you ordered, cost (in sek would be preferred) and where did you order it? www-link maybe? My old CBX 600 sounded better than my CBR with that oil barrel of an exhaust system that is standard.
About that clutch slip, it almost sounds like a overrevving problem, but bear in mind that iĀ“m no mechanic... Try riding in highway speed on high gear, maybe 6-7000 RPM, watch the RPM teller and give it full trottle, if it revvs up and then drop down again before it starts to pull, then you know you have a clutch raedy to be replaced... It might be a good idea to bleed the hydraulic system to get any air out, this could cause such a sympthom.

 

Mikekop: How do you mean air would cause the clutch to slip? I beleived that any air in the clutch engage system would weaken the clutch opening, not the clutch grip that would cause slipping if clutch is not setting properly. But I can see that the clutch oil is on the dark side in my bike and needs to be replaced anyway so I'll do that and bleed the system when I replace the plates. I already have the free-play of the clutch leaver on the lose side, so the clutch is definitly not loose all the time, it opens clutch at half-handlebar which is to little and could make downshifts a bit hard. I almost never use the clutch at upshifts from second and up. I just unload the driveline by bleeping the throttle and put some preassure on the shift leaver which gives smooth and fast uppshifts.

The laser system, Laser Pro d`Or full system with S/S silencer, was ordered at www.mgh-bikes.de for about 5000 SEK. Expect some time for delivery, the systems are only made after order.

Edit, changed wording engaged/released etc, swedes trying practice english...

 

R1000: in my manual it says: blablabla...or if the clutch slips there is most likely air in the system and air must be bleeded out. Let autorized Honda dealer perform this procedure. (as always.....) I donĀ“t know how air would cause the problem, but atleast itĀ“s an idea and a very cheap fix Could the fluid itself have anything to do with it? Brake fluid absorbes water(humidity) and needs to be replaced regulary. Just my free thoughts...