Gen 1 fork air pressure .... what do you run at???

Mine feels a little on the soft side at the recommended pressure .... Can I go any higher, in order to firm things up a little, without blowing the seals???

Would fitting progressive springs make much difference? If so... what???

Just to add ... I'm currently running a totally stock front, with all new bearings and seals

Anyone got any tips on making the front end handle better???

Regards,

shakey

 

Hey:

0-5 psi no more.
Race tech gold valve and heavier springs? It really depends on your load and size if over (400LBS Combined) go to the heaviest spring set but use the calculator on race tech to get it exact.
RT - Digital Product Search


Dub

 

heavier weight (15) fork oil can be a help too

 

I got my spring here
SonicSprings.com

They have a calculator to help get the correct spring rate. I am very happy with the feel of the front end. Great customer service.

 

Hey:

Heavier oil is an old school fix but induces it's own set of problems related to temperature. If you ride year round this is a concern if you are a Summer only rider then not so much.
In the stock forks your damping is controlled by drilled orifices giving straight viscous damping. The stock oil is an SAE 10W About 30-35 Cst. at 40 c. The trouble with this system is that you will end up with inadequate low speed damping and too much high speed (HS) damping. Upping the viscosity will make the low speed (LS) damping better but the forks get harsh on rocks and pot holes. With the RaceTech Gold Valve Emulators, the compression damping orifices are taken out of the system by drilling them out and replaced by ports covered by a blow off shim with adjustable spring tension considerably flattening the force vs. viscosity curve. You can now make the compression damping work like you want with lighter oils, (2.5, 5.0, & 7.5) and use the oil viscosity to control the rebound damping. The big disadvantage of the heavy oil is the poor viscosity index, making forks change in performance based on temperature more than they should have to. A 15w oil has almost twice the effect as a 7.5w in this aspect, so as the temperature drops the increasingly harsher it feels. An upgrade of spring rate for your type of riding matched to your weight and riding style transforms a bike, to your bike. The only down side is this costs a lot more than a oil change, but once done to your bike it will not need to be done again unless you have a massive change in weight.

Another choice you can ponder is aquiring a complete set of 89-92 CBR1KF Mk2 forks as they are of the cartridge type and are an improvement on their own. They slide right in as all 1KFs are 41mm from the factory. If a decent budget is on hand for this, another option is the 41mm Adjustable VTR 1000 Superhawk or Firestorm complete forks but they need to have the modded CBR1KF top tubes installed, or longer custom tubes with heavier custom springs installed with the gold valves for LS and HS compression/rebound dampening. This allows for the correct geometry, adjustabilty and 4 pot brake upgade that will fit newer wider front wheels and tires. This would also require different rotors and change to the newer Mk2+ sprocket cover. This would give the best by far options in your bikes handling but also cost the most. But this would give you much more modern handling and braking.

Dub

 

Thanks for that, guys. Some great advise there

I've been pondering over swapping the wheels for a set of Gen 2 wheels over this winter, to give me a better choice of more modern tyres, so swapping the front forks for Gen 2 at the same time would make sense. Also bearing in mind that I'm still currently investigating the front brakes for pulsing, it would be a "one stop fix" for my front end to swap the whole front to Gen 2, as I could swap the brake discs and calipers to Gen 2 at the same time ..... Certainly makes sense to me....

In what way would the Gen 2 cartridge type forks benefit?
Would the brake master cylinder need to be changed if I use Gen 2 calipers?
Would I keep the original upper and lower yokes, or swap for Gen 2?

shakey

 

In what way would the Gen 2 cartridge type forks benefit?

Smoother better ride and better control overall long term, plus elimination of the anti dive link and air caps. Also if you do the Gold valve and new springs they respond to those mods better. Here is some good info and explanations plus the install procedure on the Gold valve for the older Non Cartridge forks.
http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tec...tor/index.html


Would the brake master cylinder need to be changed if I use Gen 2 calipers?

No they're the same, only a later CBR1100XX or early CBR600F4I/600RR (Better) have a same design larger piston master, they would be an upgrade(Required) if going to the Firestorm 4 pot front brakes or if yours is in need of a rebuild otherwise, not really much difference between the 3 Mks of CBR1KFs. If you plan on doing this (04-06 CBR600RR Master) wait to you have it and purchase the new adj levers for the model the master is for, as they make this even better then.


Would I keep the original upper and lower yokes, or swap for Gen 2?

Yes Keep, unless you want to change but if found as a complete unit (Mk2) while off change to the better roller bearings in the steering head before you swap back as it is better for the long term.


Also CBR1KF wheels and Front rotors for Mk2 and Mk3 are the same, (except wheel colours) Mk1 front rotors are different, the rear rotors for Mk1 and Mk2 are also the same, Mk3 is different.

Dub

 

That's great info .... Thanks very much for that Dub ... you're a star

Now I know which way I'm going with this, I can start searching for the parts I need and get them refurb'd and ready to fit during the winter months.


Thanks again to everyone for the advise

shakey

 

won't be changing my 15 weight and new springs anytime soon Dub and I do ride
10 out of 12 months of the year even if it's up here is freeze your assets of Maine

 

Hey:

Sprock, thats with a Mk2 or 3, they are both cartridge fork bikes, wait till you ride your old 87 in the cold they are not as forgiving in the repeat potholes, but what is other than a MXer.
I don't even want to think of winter and cold now, I am enjoyoing this 100 deg weather while I can before it cools off.

But have you tried a lighter weight oil and a penske or gold valve or did you go with heavier progressive springs? I think it makes a big improvement. I would like to here your take on this. Have you ridden the 87 much back to back against the other 2 and what do you think and notice between the 2?

Dub